Whitworth 30-06 stuck bolt

^ From his description of only being able to lift the bolt handle 5 degrees - he has not got it to the point of extracting that fired case - pounding on a rod might jar whatever is jamming his bolt now, but I do not think "tight extraction" is his issue right now? I think a Mauser bolt has to be opened circa 50% before the extraction movement starts. Unless he has been so far over-pressure that the case has swelled up really tight in that chamber and pressed really firmly against the bolt face - in the one instance of that that I have seen - could not move the bolt handle at all. Has to be something that allows his slight movement between bolt and receiver?

That one instance really pounded into my head what "working up" means and why to do that - I MUCH prefer to feel the bolt get tighter as I progress with stages, versus having the bolt "frozen shut" on the first firing. Is some rifles here that are "too tight" to open, for me, a full grain or more less than published Maximum loads, and some go a grain past Maximum with no discernible effect.
 
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Middle pic is how far down the bolt travels
Last pic is bolt straight up.
 

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tiriaq said:
^^^

That trick can loosen a stuck case and allow the bolt to open.

In my experience with neglected and abused rifles, the most common causes of a bolt not wanting to rotate to open were stuck cases (rough, scabby, pitted chamber) or bolt sleeve rusted to bolt body. An over-pressure load can also cause the problem, but not likely with a factory round.
Click to expand...

This, one thing I remember happening from a few years back, was an issue with the "bolt sleeve lock" which had gotten jammed and wouldn't allow the bolt to rotate down.

The bolt sleeve lock is the little pin on the left side of the face of the bolt shroud. You can see it clearly in your pics, just behind the "bolt release lever"

If that locking pin isn't being pushed back far enough, the bolt will not be able to rotate.
 
Had the same thing happen to me years ago, albeit with an empty chamber.

Take the barrelled action out of the stock [your rear trigger guard screw may have been screwed in too much if the rear screw bedding collar is not there]

Try opening the bolt; if still no joy, proceed to the next step.

Drive the sear pin out & Remove the trigger & sear.

Try opening the bolt; if still no joy, proceed to the next step.

Remove the ejector box screw & remove the ejector & ejector box.

Try opening the bolt; if still no joy, proceed to the next step.

As bearhunter stated, using a thin flat screwdriver blade or thick feeler gauge, insert it between the receiver & the bolt sleeve lock in order to compress the bolt sleeve lock spring.

Try opening the bolt; if still no joy, proceed to the next step.

With a padded vise, clamp the barrelled action tight in the vise.

Now, give the bolt handle a good whack upwards.

Don't forget that Mauser designed his extractor so that the harder you pull back, the tighter the case rim is gripped.

It has been my experience that a good whack with a bigger hammer gets better results than hitting it numerous times with a smaller hammer.


As an aside, that firing pin is incorrect for the cocking piece [it sticks out much too far] which makes me think something else was perhaps changed, too.
 
OPEN!. but the cartridge case is still stuck in the action. Odd cause it is was a brand new factory cartridge. Going to order myself a 6mm brass rod to tap out the case. Probably a good(safe) idea to get the rifle a basic safety/function test.

Correction 7mm
 
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The chamber could well be rusty and pitted... holding on to that case for dear life... possible a length of chain and a long rope could be it's saving grace.
 
Lodi said:
This might be a situation where the chamber is rusty/cruddy and the fired case is physically stuck in the chamber.
Click to expand...

Squirt a little penetrating oil into the bore and let it sit overnight, rifle muzzle up. Use a long length of solid brass rod, 6mm or 1/4" diameter with the ends chamfered and no burrs, just drop the rod into the case from about 18" away. Several tries will be needed. Try this and see how it goes.
 
If you get tempted to tap on that rod with a hammer - is probably going to be worth your while to install a number of wraps of electrician vinyl tape about every two inches or so along that rod - if you tap it against resistance, it is going to slap against the bore - no point to doing more damage to it than already is done. Typically you will want that rod very short to tap on it, sticking out the muzzle no more than a centimetre or so. If you have the bolt fully open, then it will not take tremendous force to pop out that fired case - all though it will look horribly scratched up when you get it out.
 
vagrantonwalkabout said:
OPEN!. but the cartridge case is still stuck in the action. Odd cause it is was a brand new factory cartridge. Going to order myself a 6mm brass rod to tap out the case. Probably a good(safe) idea to get the rifle a basic safety/function test.

Correction 7mm
Click to expand...

That chamber must be pretty bad, factory 7x57 ammo is loaded way below its potential working pressures in deference to the M91/93/95 Mausers.
 
OP was talking about using a 7mm diameter rod to tap out the stuck case.
A .30 cal. cleaning rod should also work.
First thing I would try is a steel .30 cal. rod, give it a good bounce against the stuck case. Hydraulic method could be used as well, but a sharp rap with a rod might do the trick.
It would be an idea to inspect the extractor and the case rim. Extractor hook damaged, case rim torn?
If the chamber is rough, the case will be marked. If the chamber is rough, it might be necessary to set the barrel back and ream the chamber. That might only make sense if the bore is excellent.
Saw a lot of pitted chambers in the North.
 
Has been my impression that a rifle's chamber should be smooth and shiny like a mirror - others have said to be able to see some cross hatching on the finish in there - however, clean and dry - no pits or debris - the case upon firing is going to swell up to match the chamber wall - tightly - and should relax a smidgeon - to be able to extract - any rust or pits in there will cause the case to conform to that - results in a mechanical "lock" to be overcome, to get that case out of the chamber.
 
tiriaq said:
OP was talking about using a 7mm diameter rod to tap out the stuck case.
A .30 cal. cleaning rod should also work.
First thing I would try is a steel .30 cal. rod, give it a good bounce against the stuck case. Hydraulic method could be used as well, but a sharp rap with a rod might do the trick.
It would be an idea to inspect the extractor and the case rim. Extractor hook damaged, case rim torn?
If the chamber is rough, the case will be marked. If the chamber is rough, it might be necessary to set the barrel back and ream the chamber. That might only make sense if the bore is excellent.
Saw a lot of pitted chambers in the North.
Click to expand...

Yup, I use a 1/4" diameter piece of 36in long drill rod, wrapped in electrical tape for such things. Much more substantial if you have to tap it with a hammer. Usually it will dislodge such cases by dropping it for the last six inches or so.
 
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