Why I like the 6.5x55 Swede!

lejarretnoir

lejarretnoir

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
136   0   0
Location
162km from Connaught
Thought I'd share my new F-Class gun I just built. This is still in experimental stage while I await my new MacLennan barrel. Pictured is my old shot out MacLennan HV barrel cut to 27" with over 1,800 rds.

Standard Rem 700 L/A blueprinted, standard trigger reworked for crisp 1.5 lbs letoff, MacMillan-Anschutz prone stock, pillar bedded. I have not decided yet to block bed or just make up a single shot loading ramp then completely bed the action. Right now, only the front of the receiver, recoil lug and about 2" of the barrel are bedded in Devcon. Leupold 8.5x25 Mk4 TMR.

Standard SAMMI reamer from PTG. I wanted to test a standard chamber before I send it back for regrinding if needed to change throat or whatever dimensions. Used Lapua 139gr mollied pills loaded to touch the lands, some N560 or N550 powder with full length sized Winchester cases/primers. No load development, just standard pressure loads. Top of the boat-tail seats halfway down the neck. Plenty of room to fill the case when needed and enough neck left for throat erosion.


img6237p.jpg


img6236j.jpg


All shots in the center were warms ups and sighters at 100meters in -10C no winds.
Just testing scope tracking with groups that measured .349, .437, .532, .619.


img6249i.jpg



This just goes to show how the Swede wants to shoot without even trying and a worn barrel to boot! So if you're thinking about the Swede, wait till the testing is complete. :)
 
You have an awesome rifle. Worn out barrel, no load development and it shoots those groups. What was the barrel chambered in before you got the PTG reamer?
 
Very nice.

Not to throw this thread off track, but I just started playing with a 6.5x55AI
Any advice on loads you liked?

Thanks
 
pauls said:
Very nice.

Not to throw this thread off track, but I just started playing with a 6.5x55AI
Any advice on loads you liked?

Thanks
Click to expand...
You should be able to get a few more grains of powder from standard case loads. Start with N165 or Reloader 22 standard loads to fireform then add a little until you see pressure signs. Those are my two favourite powders for the Swede. N160/N560 is real accurate too.
 
What are you planing on doing with the old barrel? Never really looked into precision shooting, extremely impressive groupings with a "bad" barrel. Too much $$$ then I can afford to drop at this time to get into this shooting sport @.@
 
Great looking rig and looks like your shooting some great groups so far.

I would suggest though that you look at getting a lighter trigger. Most F-Class shooters use triggers in the 2-8oz pull weight so that when you want the shot to break it goes off almost by thought.
 
theoneofthechuck said:
What are you planing on doing with the old barrel? Never really looked into precision shooting, extremely impressive groupings with a "bad" barrel. Too much $$$ then I can afford to drop at this time to get into this shooting sport @.@
Click to expand...
If there's one thing I understand is the cost of getting into shooting sports. I've also been broke due to work layoffs too.

My point in building this gun was cost efficiency. You don't need the absolute best to have an accurate gun, but you need to know what is essential and what are bells and whistles.

If you already own a hunting rifle and don't use it much, consider that for your new F-Class action. Rem 700, Savage, Win 70 to name a few I've seen made into F-Class guns. Already comes with a trigger to work with.
Don't go cheap on barrels. Get the best brand name you can buy! Period.
Get the best brand name bullets too! These two things alone net the most results.
Any decent stock, wood, fiberglass, tubegun whatever will work. The 3rd important part is the bedding.
4th, Good scope mounting system and scope also. Being able to see and have a quality scope is essential, but you don't need the best there is. I have a $300 Super Sniper that will shoot as good as the Leupold.

OK, lets break down the cost of getting into F-Class without breaking the bank.
Action: $200-500 or your old unused hunting rifle [look on EE for deals]
Barrel: $300-500 [look on EE for deals]
Stock: $200-500 [look on EE for deals] I made a trade for that McMillan you see.
Scope & Base: $400-1500 [look on EE for deals] depends what you can live with.
Gunsmithing: Can be all assembled for $150 and up. [Shop around for a good smith, don't let bubba work on it!]

So anywhere for $1,000 and up and you can be in the game my friend if you want to build anew for the same cost of a new quality hunting rifle. You don't need a $5,000 rifle to be competitive in F-Class, but it's nice to have if you got the cash.
You could also buy an older unused Target rifle , slap a scope on it and you're there too. I started F-Class with a $400 Sportco and put a Weaver 15x on it for $200 which is for sale BTW on EE. [Shameless plug]

Total cost of that rifle pictured above is $2400 once new barrel arrives. The Leupold cost more than the actual rifle at $1400 bought on the EE too. I really like that scope, but I'm also not starting out for the first time. Yes those groups are indicative of what a Precision Rifle will do. A new barrel will cut those groups in half and no, that barrel isn't for sale. Too many fond memories. :)
 
CyaN1de said:
Great looking rig and looks like your shooting some great groups so far.
I would suggest though that you look at getting a lighter trigger. Most F-Class shooters use triggers in the 2-8oz pull weight so that when you want the shot to break it goes off almost by thought.
Click to expand...
Thanks CyaN1de,
I use to have Jewells, Shilens, etc. Yep, nice to have, but I find reworking the 'Walker Death Triggers' to be adequate once stoned and polished up. I did have to fit the safety into that stock. Oh yea it has a working safety. LOL

BTW, do you Western boys ever come to Connaught? You'll have a nasty Swede and a 7mm BooBoo to deal with. ;)
 
The only two centerfire rifles I have are two Carl Gustav '96 Mausers in 6.5x55 Swede. Ones an original Milsurp carbine that I threw in a sporter stock purchased from Trade Ex, still have the original wood and furniture for it. The second is a moded sporter purchased from Trade Ex with a fixed 4X Bushnell mounted on it. Both were breaking sporting clays at 100yrds when I was sighting them in this november (not too impressive yeah, but good for me right now ^.^) Don't know if the '96 action is good as a base to work off of or not, but it's all I got to work with (unless someone is looking for a swede carbine? ;) My shameless plug) but could use the sporter as a base and go from there. As for the gunsmithing, when my training starts (transferring to Weapons Tech - Land woot woot) I could ask my instructors if personal projects are allowed to be worked on, and go from there yay or nay. Would the '96 action be acceptable for a starting base?
 
Personally, I wouldn't use the 96 for a custom target rifle, but it has been used successfully in the past. Supposedly the CG63 actions the Swedes made into target rifles are more robust. The problem with the 96 is #### on closing and slow lock time. The firing pin travels 1". The other reason is pressure. Loading the Swede for long range [1000yds] requires you to up the pressure to modern action designs. Others may chime in, but firing an older 96 action at 55,000psi and up all day is not good. Bolt setback will occur and headspace problems.

Stay with more modern actions is my advise.
 
lejarretnoir said:
Thanks CyaN1de,
I use to have Jewells, Shilens, etc. Yep, nice to have, but I find reworking the 'Walker Death Triggers' to be adequate once stoned and polished up. I did have to fit the safety into that stock. Oh yea it has a working safety. LOL

BTW, do you Western boys ever come to Connaught? You'll have a nasty Swede and a 7mm BooBoo to deal with. ;)
Click to expand...

Farthest east I have made it so far was Winnipeg last year, before that it was Nokomis Sask.

Maybe one day I will make it to Connaught but for now the time and $$ to shoot there does not agree with my job and my bank account. :D
 
That is a sweet looking gat! I totally agree with you that it is entirely possible to get into a good purpose-built rifle for less money than most people realize. Simple re-barreling a factory gun with a decent barrel will pay huge dividends, however the second part of the formula is reloading. This takes time, practice and accumulation of lots of bits and pieces to do it properly, but it is the essential second half of the precision equipment requirement

Your Groups are close, and with a bit more tweaking. you should be able to get them solidly under a half-minute, which will be essential for competitive success at 900M.

Great project!

As to Connaught, not likely. Too Long, too far and too expensive. DCRA won't listen to those complaints so we Westerners will stay home.
 
cool project!

i have the Ljungman Ag-42B in 6.5 sweede and althrough its far from a precision rifle i do agree with you that the 6.5 just wants to shoot accuratly!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom