why not to lube the neck
- Thread starter Boltcarrier
- Start date
I roll my brass on the RCBS pad, with RCBS lube, never lube the inside of the case neck for sizing, but I use a Redding body die. I lube the inside of the case neck with graphite via a nylon brush before charging and seating, works very well and no wiping off the cases.
I've noticed the spray lubes perform differently when wet that after given time to dry.
I have a plastic bucket that is dedicated to this purpose and I never clean it. I just let the lube dry in the bucket, and then its already there for next time.
I put cases in the bucket and spray generously and shake the cases around a bit, then put them aside for a while to dry off before sizing. Some of the lube gets inside the necks so I rarely feel the need to lube the necks further.
After sizing, I tumble cases in stainless media and soapy water so they are really clean before loading. Except for load development where I cut corners... I never leave lube on when hand loading.
After tumbling, I use a 1/4" shank cone shaped carbide burr to put a small chamfer on the inside case mouth. Bullets seat better after doing this.
I still use the lube pad and spritz RCBS water soluble case lube on to it, then roll case. The pad does not touch the neck or shoulder.
For inside the neck, leave the carbon were it is as much as possible and run a nylon brush in and out once, the carbon is the lube and by this method the amount of carbon is consistent therefore bullet release will be consistent, at least that is how I look at it.
As Eagleye says the carbon on the outside is easy to remove when fresh, but not too onerous if left until the time of case prep. I chuck a universal Lee shell holder into my drill motor, to clean the neck/shoulder area and run the fine steel wool down the body for visual effects.
My ES's are fairly low by the above methods.
I do not use an expander ball/plug in the sizing die. My preferred method is using a Redding body die- Lee collet die- and a Forester seating die. Occasionally will use the regular size die but with the stem and plug removed. This requirement is more for belted cases as they will eventually exhibit a 'click' when closing the bolt.
For inside the neck, leave the carbon were it is as much as possible and run a nylon brush in and out once, the carbon is the lube and by this method the amount of carbon is consistent therefore bullet release will be consistent, at least that is how I look at it.
As Eagleye says the carbon on the outside is easy to remove when fresh, but not too onerous if left until the time of case prep. I chuck a universal Lee shell holder into my drill motor, to clean the neck/shoulder area and run the fine steel wool down the body for visual effects.
My ES's are fairly low by the above methods.
I do not use an expander ball/plug in the sizing die. My preferred method is using a Redding body die- Lee collet die- and a Forester seating die. Occasionally will use the regular size die but with the stem and plug removed. This requirement is more for belted cases as they will eventually exhibit a 'click' when closing the bolt.
Leatherstocking
CGN Regular
- Location
- BC Rockies
Lube the body, not the shoulder or the outside of the neck. A tiny dab of lube inside the neck if using full length resizing die.
Munkey1973
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Regina, SK
I am seriously surprised by how many people are saying that they don't lube the necks or they don't lube the shoulders.
I resize my F Class brass just enough that the shoulders are moved back 0.002 to 0.003 and necks are shrunk by 0.0015.... so not very much at all.
Lightly & consistently lube the entire case all the way down to the pressure ring for consistent results.
I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around any other way.
Regardless of lube (Imperial wax or otherwise), if your getting dimples anywhere on your brass, then there is obviously too much lube.
I resize my F Class brass just enough that the shoulders are moved back 0.002 to 0.003 and necks are shrunk by 0.0015.... so not very much at all.
Lightly & consistently lube the entire case all the way down to the pressure ring for consistent results.
I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around any other way.
Regardless of lube (Imperial wax or otherwise), if your getting dimples anywhere on your brass, then there is obviously too much lube.
Don't take this the wrong way, but the first time I used Hornady OneShot I did not clean and remove the old lube inside the die and it sized very hard.
I then read the directions on the can and cleaned and dried my dies and sprayed OneShot inside the die.
Hornady OneShot is a "DRY" film type lube and the cases must be dry before sizing. And the good part is it does not have to be wiped off after sizing.
And if you spray the cases at a 45 degree angle on all four sides the inside of the neck gets lubed.
And the only cases I have ever had a problem sizing using OneShot was Lake City 7.62 cases fired in machine guns. The brass is very hard and the cases expand far more in diameter and whould dislocate your shoulder trying to size them.
My second lubing method is homemade lube using alcohol and lanolin. I spray them in a large ziplock plastic bag then shake and roll the cases inside the bag. Some of this lube gets inside the neck and repeatedly lubes the expander. The only problem is the lube must be removed inside and out by tumbling in a vibratory tumbler with dry media.
And again, if any of you have problems with Hornady OneShot "ALL" the old lube must be cleaned and removed from inside the die. Then Spray the inside of the die with OneShot and make sure the cases have dried before sizing.
Some of these threads are just hilarious.....
My steps.
Clean cases with Never Dull.
Wipe
Lube entire case
Resize with Full Length Neck die
Clean primer pockets
Run my cases thru quick trim and deburr if required
Run nylon brush thru neck area
Wipe lube off
Reload
I have no issues with dimples on the necks or shoulders. This happens from excess lube. Do not even have issues with cases which I even just use standard RCBS dies.
My steps.
Clean cases with Never Dull.
Wipe
Lube entire case
Resize with Full Length Neck die
Clean primer pockets
Run my cases thru quick trim and deburr if required
Run nylon brush thru neck area
Wipe lube off
Reload
I have no issues with dimples on the necks or shoulders. This happens from excess lube. Do not even have issues with cases which I even just use standard RCBS dies.
It's possible what they meant by lubing the neck is, lubing the inside of the neck. I always lube the inside of the neck prior to full-length resizing. I roll a bore brush on the lube pad and then run it several times inside the case mouth and neck. With a little lube inside of the necks, there is less friction and stress on the neck, and smoother resizing.
