Will barrel whip cause me problems with this setup?

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MartyK2500

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I have recently finished an AR15 build, my first build to be honest.
Did this because I wanted something specific for service rifle (and maybe 3gun someday it could be used there) and was easier to just build from ground up.

Passed the function test, headspaces within normal specs being a .223 wylde, and only tested once with 55gr bulk in -30C weather, as I was going more for reliability and function that day than accuracy.

I am looking at a video someone sent me about barrel whip
, and got a feeling my gas block may hit the handguard, what do you all think of this?

From my research gas blocks usually have .750'' dia on match barrels, but my barrel has a .936" dia block which is beefy.
In these pictures we see the light in the gap, there is barely a gap even.

iUOm5W2h.jpg


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I could file some off the gas block as it's got a square bottom,
And could also Dremel inside of handguard,
How much clearance am I wanting exactly?
 
Took pics from up front to show clearance best i could

tFPALgX.jpg


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Camera didn’t want to focus like i wanted but i think i can display the general idea.
Plenty of place to whip up, left and right, downwards not so much.
 
That is why I’m asking.
New to ARs but not new to precision rifles, i presume it could touch during whip, wouldn’t this make inaccuracies?
 
MartyK2500 said:
That is why I’m asking.
New to ARs but not new to precision rifles, i presume it could touch during whip, wouldn’t this make inaccuracies?
Click to expand...

If you suspect it will touch paint the closest point with an orange marker or something like that. Shoot it. See if it removed anything. My guess is you will be fine.
 
I got the same setup on 4 of my rifles. Midwest ssm handguard?

If so, dont worry about barrel whip, the long barrel nut kinda prevents it as i do not have any problem in any of the 4 rifles. 1 being a 15" handguard on a 18" barrel.
 
I would shoot for a couple of millimetres clearance all the way around.
When it boils down to it though, you'll need to shoot it and see if stringing of shots is taking place.
 
I think you should keep in mind that the video shows a fluted barrel that looks thinner than yours so I’d expect whip to be somewhat diminished.

However, I think the judicious removal of material with a file may be in order. The bottom corners could be radiused a good bit. Maybe a little notching around the top if necessary.
 
You will be fine. I have a medium profile 16" 223 barrel with .750 gas block which I fitted to 1mm clearance inside. Does not "whip" or touch.
 
Alright will give it a go this weekend.
Got some good hints thanks.

Will put some dykem on suspecting parts,
And will see for vertical stringing.
 
Another option is to get rid of the super heavy profile barrel and get something lighter. If you're plans involve any shooting sports that involve moving with your rifle you may not want to have the heaviest profile barrel you can find.
The barrel you have looks like it's better suited to sitting at a bench making holes in paper at 600 yards than it is to run and gun type shooting.

I know you are coming from precision bolt actions but these are an entirely different beast.

When you handload for it,
Full length size every time, this is for feeding reliability. Depending on your chamber you may need a small base die as well but I've never needed one.
You'll be limited by magazine length if you're planning to use heavy projectiles so loading to the lands is usually not possible.
I typically load to the bullet manufacturers suggested COL, this ensures it will fit the magazine and is usually the most reliable seating depth for it to feed from the magazine. I will play with it a little but always ensure they will cycle before building a bunch. You can build a few dummy rounds or if you have a safe place cycle loaded rounds out of the magazine to test them. Ride the handle closed so you can watch how the round comes from the magazine and into the chamber. Watch to make sure it feeds smoothly.

As for powder, I usually try to pick something a little on the slow side for the bullet weight, I figure this may give the operating system a smoother and slightly longer pressure pulse to work with.

My suggestion is to pick something like a Nosler 60gr (I've always had good luck with them in 223 rifles) and do a quick round of load development. Skip all the long range tricks and just size and trim to length. No need to chase fractions of an moa on a rifle you plan to shoot fast and in multiple shooting positions.
I've also found that CFE223 works very well under that 60gr Nosler.

Semi auto rifles are also typically hard on brass (some more than others) so you're not going to get as many reloads and your also going to lose a lot more of them so skip past the Lapua section when shopping for brass. I still match headstamps but I just use cheap Federal or Rem brass.

Good luck
 
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The barrel whip might be enough to touch the rail, it is not a violent enough to do any physical damage to any parts. Shoot it and see, unless you can't below 3 MOA at a hundred than you are over thinking it.
 
cr5 said:
Another option is to get rid of the super heavy profile barrel and get something lighter. If you're plans involve any shooting sports that involve moving with your rifle you may not want to have the heaviest profile barrel you can find.
The barrel you have looks like it's better suited to sitting at a bench making holes in paper at 600 yards than it is to run and gun type shooting.

I know you are coming from precision bolt actions but these are an entirely different beast.

When you handload for it,
Full length size every time, this is for feeding reliability. Depending on your chamber you may need a small base die as well but I've never needed one.
You'll be limited by magazine length if you're planning to use heavy projectiles so loading to the lands is usually not possible.
I typically load to the bullet manufacturers suggested COL, this ensures it will fit the magazine and is usually the most reliable seating depth for it to feed from the magazine. I will play with it a little but always ensure they will cycle before building a bunch. You can build a few dummy rounds or if you have a safe place cycle loaded rounds out of the magazine to test them. Ride the handle closed so you can watch how the round comes from the magazine and into the chamber. Watch to make sure it feeds smoothly.

As for powder, I usually try to pick something a little on the slow side for the bullet weight, I figure this may give the operating system a smoother and slightly longer pressure pulse to work with.

My suggestion is to pick something like a Nosler 60gr (I've always had good luck with them in 223 rifles) and do a quick round of load development. Skip all the long range tricks and just size and trim to length. No need to chase fractions of an moa on a rifle you plan to shoot fast and in multiple shooting positions.
I've also found that CFE223 works very well under that 60gr Nosler.

Semi auto rifles are also typically hard on brass (some more than others) so you're not going to get as many reloads and your also going to lose a lot more of them so skip past the Lapua section when shopping for brass. I still match headstamps but I just use cheap Federal or Rem brass.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Thank you for the suggestions.
So far, I am following advice from the guy that sold me the barrel.
It is indeed made for run and gunning, my AR feels incredibly well balanced right now, I t is exactly balanced at the front of magwell.
To be honest I don't know why it has a .936'' gas block on a skinnier barrel, may have to do with harmonics?

Anyhow, the guy who sold it to me uses it in run and gun, with 77 TMK and IMR 8208xbr powder, I will follow this recipe see what gives.
I was already planning on FLS with an exact 4 thou bump since this is semi auto and want reliability, I won't get into neck turning and sizing like I do with my precision 308.
I will anneal though fwiw.
Will also limit my first reloaded rounds batch (maybe 5-10), it would suck to load 200 off the start and notice I need a small base die, thanks for the heads up.
I got about 800 XM855 62gr here, I was thinking this would be my 100-200M blaster ammo, then reload these casings for the serious 77TMK stuff.
Got a Dillon super swage tool coming here, never tried it before as I have never dealt with crimped primers before, I have been told it's the tool to use.

This is my barrel specs, and picture of assembled rifle.
For a match barrel it feels really well balanced, as it's not a true HBAR and measures 19'', also went with an A2 f/h sized brake to keep muzzle weight down.

Edit : Since the main purpose for this rifle build is service rifle, I think it's about the lightest/shortest I can go for 500M shots.
Just figured it would make also a solid 3 gun platform, without being the best for 3G of course, still a solid compromise short of owning 2 ARs.

VrQxeO8h.png


cEsGQLzl.jpg


hbean said:
The barrel whip might be enough to touch the rail, it is not a violent enough to do any physical damage to any parts. Shoot it and see, unless you can't below 3 MOA at a hundred than you are over thinking it.
Click to expand...

I am hoping real hard for a sub moa 10 shot group (prone with bipod and rear sansbags for testing), I may have to lower my expectations.
 
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.963 gas block and stainless steel? I am assuming it is an IBI barrel, yeah you shouldn't have any problems getting MOA or better performance even with the barrel whip, since Ryan at IBI have been using that exact profile to win matches.
 
hbean said:
.963 gas block and stainless steel? I am assuming it is an IBI barrel, yeah you shouldn't have any problems getting MOA or better performance even with the barrel whip, since Ryan at IBI have been using that exact profile to win matches.
Click to expand...

Yep an IBI, was so much satisfied with my 308 Savage prefit, which does 10 shot groups that are hard to believe on the internet, but have plenty of witnesses see it first hand.
So I went with them for AR, and contacted Ryan for the sale, was also sport enough to share reload recipe and a quick bedding AR barrel install trick.
I feel like Ryan is not just selling a pipe, he wants it to work for me and is easy to chat with.
 
MartyK2500 said:
Thank you for the suggestions.
So far, I am following advice from the guy that sold me the barrel.
It is indeed made for run and gunning, my AR feels incredibly well balanced right now, I t is exactly balanced at the front of magwell.
To be honest I don't know why it has a .936'' gas block on a skinnier barrel, may have to do with harmonics?

Anyhow, the guy who sold it to me uses it in run and gun, with 77 TMK and IMR 8208xbr powder, I will follow this recipe see what gives.
I was already planning on FLS with an exact 4 thou bump since this is semi auto and want reliability, I won't get into neck turning and sizing like I do with my precision 308.
I will anneal though fwiw.
Will also limit my first reloaded rounds batch (maybe 5-10), it would suck to load 200 off the start and notice I need a small base die, thanks for the heads up.
I got about 800 XM855 62gr here, I was thinking this would be my 100-200M blaster ammo, then reload these casings for the serious 77TMK stuff.
Got a Dillon super swage tool coming here, never tried it before as I have never dealt with crimped primers before, I have been told it's the tool to use.

This is my barrel specs, and picture of assembled rifle.
For a match barrel it feels really well balanced, as it's not a true HBAR and measures 19'', also went with an A2 f/h sized brake to keep muzzle weight down.

Edit : Since the main purpose for this rifle build is service rifle, I think it's about the lightest/shortest I can go for 500M shots.
Just figured it would make also a solid 3 gun platform, without being the best for 3G of course, still a solid compromise short of owning 2 ARs.

VrQxeO8h.png


cEsGQLzl.jpg




I am hoping real hard for a sub moa 10 shot group (prone with bipod and rear sansbags for testing), I may have to lower my expectations.
Click to expand...

Those TMK's are supposed to work well and I've also had good luck with 8208xbr so it sounds like you're all set.
Sorry, that barrel looked way fatter in the earlier pics for some reason.

Good luck.

Here's my donor for when I get my MS set.
Maple ridge 18.6 match barrel
IMG_20190102_130557.jpg
IMG_20190102_130316.jpg
 

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cr5 said:
Those TMK's are supposed to work well and I've also had good luck with 8208xbr so it sounds like you're all set.
Sorry, that barrel looked way fatter in the earlier pics for some reason.

Good luck.

Here's my donor for when I get my MS set.
Maple ridge 18.6 match barrel
View attachment 249149
View attachment 249153
Click to expand...

Very nice!
Looks like a service rifle ready setup I must say,
MRA barrel blanks are actually made by IBI afaik,
So we have comparable setups in some ways.
 
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