Will still shot REALLY harm this shotgun?

I had a Rem Wingmaster full choke in 2 3/4 inch that I shot steel 2's thru with no problems. I wouldn't go any bigger than 1's with the full choke. Both 2's and 1's are adequate
for geese. Whichever way you choose to go good luck on your hunt.
 
Hmmm ... Years ago, I shot some steel loads through a full (lead) choke. Gun was a single shot Baikal with a very thick barrel. I had no troubles with the barrel mechanically, but the patterns the gun produced were absolutely terrible. I seems the choke was causing the shot to "spray" like a water nozzle. Interested to hear other peoples experiences...
 
Ive seen more than a few M12,s Rem 31's and such at shows with a bulged barrel. I wouldn't shoot steel shot through a steel comparable barrel choked full and certainly wouldn't attempt this with a vintage shotgun.
 
There was a guy advertising here on CGN that will convert it to screw in chokes quite reasonably priced. It isn't worth it to chance screwing up a good barrel and ruining a shooting model 12. Lots say it should be fine, but lots also recommend walking on thin ice.
 
Just finished reading an article on this. Using smaller shot will NOT damage your choke. Using larger shot will stress the choke. After years and years of banging large steel you will wreck the threads and possibly shoot the choke out of the barrel.
 
radmacks said:
Just finished reading an article on this. Using smaller shot will NOT damage your choke. Using larger shot will stress the choke. After years and years of banging large steel you will wreck the threads and possibly shoot the choke out of the barrel.
Click to expand...

The OP stated shooting steel shot through an unaltered factory full choke with a vintage M12 shotgun. I often shoot 3 and 4 steel through an altered M12 field grade fixed choke barrel now choked light modified. I have had no issues.
 
Take a minute and read the British CIP Steel Shot proofing procedure and limits. You will find that with the recommended steel shot loadings most shotguns including the model 12 with Full choke will pass steel shot proofing. It is all about gun type and shot size, charge weight and velocity. Not all steel can be fired through full choked vintage guns but some can. My chosen factory load of federal blue box #4 @1375 1 1/8 oz. is OK in the model 12. The British proof limits take into account thin barreled side by sides that could be in poor condition for the proof. Having said that a step to #2 shot and slightly higher velocity say 1450 fps would still be OK in most North American made shotguns from manufacturers whom made quality shotguns. (Winchester, Remington, Ithaca etc.) This is what I base my opinion on steel shot in Full choke shotguns upon. There are always exceptions (swaged Full choke single shots etc) Use some common sense follow the guide lines. High velocity BBB will wear a tight choked vintage gun out in a hurry.

Darryl
 
Common sense asks me why shoot steel shot in a choke configuration that is way too tight when it will give poor patterns and possibly bulge the choke.

Older shotguns with full choke where made with chokes that actually measure tighter than a full choke measurement today... that was because of the old ammo with overshot wads which needed a very tight choke for denser patterns. When the plastic wad came out these extremely tight chokes were not really required. They most certainly are not required with steel shot.
 
I have heard about over choking steel and how it ruins patterns. My model 12 and Remington 1100 Full choked guns pattern steel #4's very nicely. Again I shoot #4 not BBB or other lettered sized shot. Steel #6 over decoys works well too. My point is if a guy wants to shoot 50 yard mallards with steel shot buy a Beretta or other brand new B gun set up for 3" or 3 1/2" loads and go at it. For my style of hunting what I use works well. Unfortunately somebody will only get the "OK" part and start running T shot through his grand pa's Auto 5 Magnum and pop the barrel with a bulge or worse. I only ask that people educate themselves.

Darryl
 
THank you; i'll. Phone soon to make an appointment to have ths done to the barrel.
guntech said:
I must have posted this a dozen times or more...

SHOTGUN BARREL ALTERATIONS FOR STEEL SHOT

Forcing Cone Alteration:

Factory shotgun barrels usually have a fairly short and abrupt forcing cone. The forcing cone is the tapered area just ahead of the chamber where the shell is contained. Altering the forcing cone, so it is one and one half or two inches in length, reduces recoil and improves the pattern density. Trap shooters and skeet shooters have been doing this for many years. It is a good benefit to the steel shot user as well.

Choke Alteration:
Choke designation from the tightest to the most open are:
Extra Full, Full, Improved Modified, Modified, Skeet II, Improved Cylinder, Skeet I, and Cylinder Bore.

Steel shot does not require the constriction that lead shot needs, to produce good patterns. In fact too much constriction, causes poor, erratic patterns, and in some cases, permanently damages the barrel. I have seen barrels bulged at the choke, I have seen barrels where the choke split right open, from using steel shot.

For steel shot, with thin barrels, chokes should be altered to at least Skeet II. Often, over & under, and side-by-side shotguns, are best altered to Skeet I and Skeet II chokes. Heavier barrels can be left at Modified choke but may see an improvement in the pattern if opened slightly.
Click to expand...
 
I belong to the school of thought that says most shotguns are choked too tight to start with, lead shot or steel shot, so perhaps when shooting steel it would be beneficial in opening up a full choked gun, I mean in terms of hunting success. However if the gun was valuable, like an old English double, I wouldn't do it. I've seen too many old things ruined by 'improvements' I guess.
 
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