Win m70 in 300 H&H

unstableryan

unstableryan

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A friend offered me a Winchester Model 70 in 300 H&H for a decent price. It's the case of an old guy getting rid of guns that haven't been fired in a while.

What specifically should I look for when checking out this gun? What questions should I ask? I have read that if it's factory drilled it's worth a lot more than aftermarket drill and tapped. Is there an easy way to tell?

What serial number range should I be looking for in order to determine if it's more desirable or valuable? I think it's an old gun, of course I doubt they have chambered rifles in 300H&H for a while now.

If this is a desireable rifle I will go for it, but really I don't have an immediate need for it.

Thanks for the wisdom this board can dig up. I found very little searching for info on this calibre/rifle combo on here but if I missed something, please point it out.


Ryan
 
Assuming it's a pre-1964, and it likely is, just buy it if it's in good shape. Desireable rifle/cartridge combo and a good all-round big game cartridge, if a bit pricey to shoot.
If it's older and has the long extractor that indicates controlled round feed, it's pre-64.
I read Layne Simpson's article on the Big 300 and he said that in his experience (5 rifles, IIRC) the old Mod 70 300 Mag was invariably excellent in fit, finish and accuracy.
 
Serial number less than 581471 = buy it (I would). Blue Book puts the standard grade between 1000 and 1500 for a "hunted" rifle.
 
If it is a pre-64 standard rifle in pristine condition it would be in the $12-1500 range. If it shows normal wear and tear and is all original 950-1200. If it is well used and worn, recoil pad added or otherwise dicked-with $500-600. If it is a pre-ww II add a couple hundred and if it is a Supergrade add $500-1000.

FWIW 44Bore
 
I think $500-600 is too cheap if it is in nice condition. I also think $1200-1500 is too cheap if it is pristine. Look at the pre-64 Winchester M70s on EE. None of them are in a caliber remotely as desireable as the .300 H&H. Just my opinion.
 
If you're looking at a .300H&H, the only thing you really need to know is how to reload, so if you do not reload then you should get the equipment, dies etc... and buy that rifle!

P&D almost always has the brass.
 
I reload for/can for 30-30,6.5x55, 270 win, 7mm RM and 45-70.. Actively for 6.5 and 45-70.. I have enough for the others. I'm trying to wear out those two.

It's more and more interesting all the time... I wonder what I will have to give up or do to make it more responsible to buy another rifle at the moment.
 
I'm a Remington guy (I have ore in my safe than most gun stores), but I would buy that rifle in a heartbeat.

If that tells you anything!:D

I do have an early pre64 in 300H&H, but it has been reamed to 300Wby....not the same...Not even close actually. I paid well over $1,000.00 for mine.
 
i have been looking though my old speer reloading manual. It's funny when 100gr to 180's are all at ~3000 fps... and 220's are at 2900... I'm thinking you could shoot it like a varmint gun with 150's.


I'm torn. I have to talk to the girl about this one. We are not married, but it's just the better idea. I just told her I was buying my tikka, but .. I don't actually have a use for this one.. It has to be an investment for me to buy it.
 
^ It is a great deer rifle, at least that what I use mine for. I have killed 2 whitetails with 2 shots.

I handload mine with 200gr Nosler Accubonds, at a modest 2700fps MV. That 200gr Nosler will enter the chest and exit at the rear, on a big whitetail. Very nice.

I know that I can push the bullet faster but why? The biggest whitetail I have killed so far, was shot at ~250-300 yards, so apparently 2700fps MV is fast enough, for any practical hunting situations.

I do have some 180gr boattails and I think 190gr would also be nice, but I'm getting lazy, haven't gotten around to loading them and I still have lots of the 200gr Noslers already loaded.

If... I get out after deer in a few weeks, I may take that rifle, but who knows? I've got an 8x57 that wants to go deer hunting.
 
If the rifle is the CRF version pre '64 or new manufacture I would consider it to be very desirable. IMHO, the .300 H&H is a superior cartridge to the .300 Winchester due to it's short neck, particularly when loaded with heavy for caliber bullets or long mono-metal bullets.

Things to watch for . . .
cracked tang,
cracked under the forearm,
dings in the crown,
damaged, worn, or dried out recoil pad,
check the bolt face for damage around the firing pin hole,
consider that the outside condition often reflects the inside condition.
 
I have a pre-64 model 70 in .300 H&H and it is a dandy. Mine was bought from the first owner's son, in NL along with two very old boxes of Western factory rounds. It had never worn a scope and the fellow said that the 11 rounds missing from one of the boxes was all that it had ever shot. I have scoped it (6X Leopold) and it is the rifle I reach for when wanting more power than my 6.5 Swede or a Winchester lever gun. The 26 inch barrel contour handles great and it actually seems to balance better than a pre-64 .30-06 that I had owned.

I had quite a few boxes of 190 grain Hornady BTSP bullets and it shoots them really well over Reloader 22. I'm not much of a BT bullet fan for moose but it has worked awesome. One bull that I shot was standing broadside at about 40 yards and the bullet stopped under the hide of the far side on a tight behind the should shot. A Nosler Partition of 180 or 200 grains or a Failsafe, amongst others would have provided an exit hole and I will likely buy the 180 grain partitions when I need more bullets. I really have no need for any more power or reach and will sell my .338-06 AI soon. (Also built on a pre-64 model 70 if anyone is interested.)

This is just one of the classic rifle/cartridge combinations that works very well.
 
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My dad has a Pre-64 M70. There are lots of rifles out there that were ordered from the factory with non-standard features (sights, barrel length, checkering etc) so you should do some careful research to ensure that it is original before paying a fortune. But $1500 is not an unreasonable amount for a Pre-64 300 H&H that is original and in good condition. They aren't the rarest of the M70s but they are sought after.

Consult the book "the Rifleman's Rifle" to learn more. But, as Demonical said - buy that rifle!!!

The most common "dicking with" that happens to M70s in 300 H&H is that some bozo will rechamber it to 300 Wby. In those cases the value drops immensely.
 
I really like the .300 H&H Magnum. It is good enough for everything in North America. I thought and thought about one a few years ago until along came a fellow and bought the rifle the day before I decided I couldn't live without it.
 
unstableryan said:
i have been looking though my old speer reloading manual. It's funny when 100gr to 180's are all at ~3000 fps... and 220's are at 2900... I'm thinking you could shoot it like a varmint gun with 150's.


I'm torn. I have to talk to the girl about this one. We are not married, but it's just the better idea. I just told her I was buying my tikka, but .. I don't actually have a use for this one.. It has to be an investment for me to buy it.
Click to expand...

If you want to make a $100 on it P.M. me.:D
 
I've got a 300 H&H, great cartridge.

Matches the ballistics of another classic, the 300 Wizzum.:D

Sad part about the M70's in Canada is there's not a whole lot of demand here in Canada compared to the US. Them Yanks go nuts for the old pre-64's, and pay accordingly.

Similiar to the value of Luger's in the US, not much worth here but high prices in the US.

Go figure?
 
If you buy this 300 H&H make sure and check if the bolt has the serial # inscribed on the underside. And like the others told you there are really 3 era's of pre-64 300 H&H's (pre war and transitional,post war, and end of production) Anything between 900 to 1800 dollars is reasonable, depending on grade. If your interested in more info PM me with the details, and don't let anybody make you think there is is'nt model 70 collectors willing to spend the money for certain models not screwed with in Canada, regards Dale in T-Bay:)
 
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