I am wondering if anyone else has experienced the deforming of the bullet tip of a Nosler 180gr part. from the recoil. The next bullet in the magazine of my 30-06 becomes deformed by a squarish notch in the lead portion of the lead tip of the speer point. I chose for many years to use the 180gr partition protected point because of this. I am now hunting in more open range and am looking to extend the shot distance out to anywhere from 200 to 400yds. I am concerned with the amount of bullet drop due to the BC of the prot. pt. in comparrison to the BC of the speer point. I have reloaded a series of ladder rounds switching from my originally used IMR4350 to H4350 due to temp concerns and am looking to find a load which will work well out to 400yds. I wanted to stay with the partition 180gr as where I live I hunt anywhere from whitetails to moose, and have crossed paths with the odd grizzly bear as well.
Win. Model 70 30-06 deforms bullet tips?
- Thread starter Nosler06
- Start date
Sounds like you have the bullets seated long, yes? If you load to recommended OAL you should eliminate the risk for damaging the tips.
You may also find seating the bullets 60 thou, 80, 120 thou off still produce great results and recoil will not be an issue for the rounds in the mag. BTW I have found 60 thou a good seating depth for partitions. Under hunting conditions I would hazard to guess that a flattened point will not be an issue for you at normal hunting ranges.
You may also find seating the bullets 60 thou, 80, 120 thou off still produce great results and recoil will not be an issue for the rounds in the mag. BTW I have found 60 thou a good seating depth for partitions. Under hunting conditions I would hazard to guess that a flattened point will not be an issue for you at normal hunting ranges.
That happens every time I shoot noslers. Unsightly, but I don't worry about it. There will be a change in the B.C., but it won't be enough to cause a miss at any reasonable range, including shooting out to 500 yds.
What makes a Nosler Partition so effective is the soft nose up front, with the non-expanding base driving penetration. Part of the price you pay for have such a soft nose is mashed bullet tips. The only solution would be to have some sort of cartridge guide soldered to the magazine box to prevent them from moving forward with recoil.
What makes a Nosler Partition so effective is the soft nose up front, with the non-expanding base driving penetration. Part of the price you pay for have such a soft nose is mashed bullet tips. The only solution would be to have some sort of cartridge guide soldered to the magazine box to prevent them from moving forward with recoil.
Sask_Hunter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan
The accubond will preform the same and not get damaged in the mag
notsorichguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- The city that rhymes with fun
This is a well documented problem in blind mag or floor plate rifles. What I'm trying to say is that it doesn't matter if you have a model 70, 700 or a 98, they all do it.
The only fix that I have found that works to solve this is to add little bits of metal onto the sides of your mag well so that the shoulder of the case impacts there during recoil as opposed to the tip of the un fired rounds in the magazine. The metal bits don't have to be very thick, ordinary metal ducting (ie for a home furnace system) from a local hardware store will work. I have also seen small diameter round stock used for this as well.
-Remove the mag box from the rifle.
-figure out where you want to add the little metal bits. Case length, feed lips etc.
-JB weld, solder or spot weld the metal into the mag box
-take a file to the sides of the follower to allow clearance for the metal bits
-reassemble and check function of magazine and follower
-adjust as needed.
You could also switch to a plastic tipped projectile.......
Cheers!
The only fix that I have found that works to solve this is to add little bits of metal onto the sides of your mag well so that the shoulder of the case impacts there during recoil as opposed to the tip of the un fired rounds in the magazine. The metal bits don't have to be very thick, ordinary metal ducting (ie for a home furnace system) from a local hardware store will work. I have also seen small diameter round stock used for this as well.
-Remove the mag box from the rifle.
-figure out where you want to add the little metal bits. Case length, feed lips etc.
-JB weld, solder or spot weld the metal into the mag box
-take a file to the sides of the follower to allow clearance for the metal bits
-reassemble and check function of magazine and follower
-adjust as needed.
You could also switch to a plastic tipped projectile.......
Cheers!
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Good magazines include feed lips that eliminate the problem. Your battered bullet tips are a result of a cheaply designed magazine. You could customize the magazine to include feed lips that hold the shoulder of the cartridge, use a flat tipped bullet like the nosler protected point, or use a hard tipped bullet like the TSX or a plastic tip.
