Winchester M1 Garand - A question

jibjedi

jibjedi

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I have been trying to find a Garand for some time now and have just recently come across my first one. I haven't a whole lot of knowledge about these rifles and was wondering if I might get some assistance from anyone who might be well acquainted with them.

This particular one is being consigned at my local gunsmith, and it has the Winchester company markings on the receiver. The gunsmith has told me that the serial numbers on the rifle do not all match up, but overall it looks to be in fairly good condition. According to the gunsmith it operates fine.

Could somebody tell me if this would be worth paying $850 for? -Thanks
 
It's hard to say without pics. For $850 you should get a decent finish (as in not bare metal everywhere), wood that is not too beat up with no major damage or splits and a good to very good bore.

I do believe that Garands only had a serial number on the receiver, the rest of the numbers are part numbers and none will match the serial #. The Garand experts here can correct me on that if I am off base.

Mark
 
Thanks for the info fellas. Much appreciated. From what I could tell the barrel, receiver and stock were all looking pretty healthy ....definitely used, but no rust/gouges and whatnot.

Im not sure if I will be able to break it down for a more detailed look, but I will certainly try and snap a few pics so that I can get some more input.

Ultimately I am not looking for a prestine piece to hang on the wall for show. I want to actually get some use out of it, so I am not too super concerned about it being perfect ....but I also dont want to get hooked into paying way more than its worth.

Thanks again!

Ps. What are the "infamous Win-13 rifles"?
 
At the CMP stores in the US, "rack grade" garands go for around $500. Rack grade rifles would rate as "Good" only on the normal scale of condition. They appreciate in value quite fast from there and go down to $300 for a "parts" rifle, without stocks and missing parts, for rebuild only.

Go to the Civilian Marksmanship Program web site and check out their stores. These rifles are not available in Canada but add about 20% for value.

Garands bring a premium in Canada. They are far less common here than in the US. If you're looking for a shooter, advertise on the EE, for $850, you should be able to find a nice Danish rebuild with a VAR barrel in Very Good or better condition for that price.

If you don't know what to look for, stay away from the 7.62x51 rebuilds and stick with the 30-06.

Don't be in to much of a rush, be patient and cruise the different web sites. Something nice will come up.
 
Well patients unfortunately isn't one of my strongest virtues ...and I just had a feeling about this one ....so I grabbed it:)

It does have a Danish 30-06 barrel but all the other parts (although probably not matching serial numbers) seem to be Winchester.

Here's some pics ....

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Thanks for the info on those scribe marks ...was wondering about it.

And yes, it definitely seemed like a ridiculous amount to pay, and I will have to make some sacrifices for it. But from what I understand they will only become more pricey and harder to find. So im glad I got into one now :)
 
Please reduce the size of your pictures.
There's no rifle that's quite like an M1. Go here for free .pdf manuals. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
Buy yourself a copy of Hatcher's Book of the Garand and Hatcher's Notebook too. Development history in both. Troubleshooting chapter in the former. About $30 each in your local gun shop or Amazon. Worth every cent and a very good read.
"...serial numbers on the rifle do not all match up..." There's one S/N on an M1. The numbers on the parts are drawing numbers and have nothing to do with the S/N. If they do match the S/N, somebody who didn't know better made 'em that way. Lowers the value too.
Few M1's will have parts from the same makers as the receiver. Most have been rebuilt several times since being made. Weapons techs didn't care who made the parts.
"...does have a Danish 30-06 barrel..." It have VAR stamped on it anywhere? VAR barrels are top notch barrels. Very close to match grade barrels.
 
jibjedi said:
And yes, it definitely seemed like a ridiculous amount to pay, and I will have to make some sacrifices for it. But from what I understand they will only become more pricey and harder to find. So im glad I got into one now :)
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing when I bought mine last summer. After shooting it, I think it is worth whatever you need to do to get one. It is absolutely the coolest rifle I have ever shot and the most fun available in my safe.

Before you shoot it, search on garand in this forum and in the reloading forum to learn about the specific ammo needs of this fantastic rifle.

Mark
 
My apologies in regards to the picture sizes. I am just learning how to use the forum:)

As for the barrel, I just had a look and yes it does have a VAR stamp with a small crown also above it. So I guess I kinda lucked out there.

Thanks for the tips on reference material, sunray ...I will certainly look into them!
 
Looks as though your rifle is a typical Danish rebuild. The VAR barrel and the electrol pencil markings on the bolt are a tip off. The Danes also typically stamped the SR# on the underside of the stock in front of the rear sling swivel. In the bottom of the hand grip they often inset a brass medallion engraved with company numbers and the like. If the SR# matches the engraveings on the bolt and are stamped in the stock you have something special! Scott Duff has a wrote (The Red Book) on WWII M1's and a second (The Blue Book) on post war M1's. Great Info in both. As stated pay strick attention to any reloads that you make!!! Watch the powder burn rate. Stick with something around IMR4895 or IMR 4064. The M1 is pressure sensative and if you don't pay attention you could bend, dismount or break your opp rod. Not a good thing!!! Nice Winny!!!

Good shooting,

rifle guy @ LSC
 
Awesome advice from Rifle Guy

To all of us shooting and possibly reloading for Garands, please check your recipes or factory loads to make sure you are using a fast burning powder!

Too slow a burning powder, and all kinds of nasty things happen up in the gas system where the least of your worries might be a bent op rod if you are burning powder up there.

There is a lot more good info on loading for Garands now than before.

Cheers Paul
 
Very nice Winchester! I can see at least the receiver, bolt and trigger group are Winchester. The rifle looks to be in nice shape too! You did just fine.

BTW, The McCann gas port or Schuster gas port are good things to buy...with them you can shoot any 3006 ammo in your rifle without damage, as long as you work up to the right jet size.
You can also leave the jet right out and the rifle will function as a manually operated bolt action...with zero damage to the op rod.

http://www.mccannindustries.com/scope/parts.html

BTW, I blame ^^ 6167 ^^ for getting me interested in Garands...I previously couldn't have cared less about them, they've grown on me.:)
 
Quoted from a thread I had in the Reloading Forum:

purple said:
Here are some that have been proven to give good functionality and accuracy w/o excess pressure signs in 2 dozen different Garands in sound condition with proper headspace over the years. Brass is Lake City 67/68/69. Primers are WLR,Rem LR or CCI #34.

A. 150FMJ/155gr Match bullet. Either 48 gr IMR4064 or 47gr IMR4895. COL is 3.280.

B. 168gr Match bullet. Either 46gr IMR4064 or 45gr IMR4895. COL is 3.330.

Some caveats/cautions on reloading for these rifles:

1. Use only the propellants specified as they are right for the gas system.

2. Only reload brass 4x after initial firing,then discard. The rifle is hard on brass and brass should be inspected after each firing. Do not try to economize and reload brass to the point of failure.

3. Always FL re-size. Do not necksize or partial re-size. You can check on proper sizing by using the rifle as a gauge to set the die and check on chambering of re-sized cases prior to reloading. In this case strip the bolt and remove op rod and spring. Trial size brass to a point that finger pressure will close the stripped bolt on the re-sized case w/o resistance. Then turn down die another 1/8-1/4 turn and lock it. Resized brass can be checked to ensure chambering w/o resistance before loading it in the same manner.

4. Ensure primers are seated slightly below flush with the casehead. A primer pocket uniformer will facilitate this. If brass is MILSURP,primer crimps must be removed before attempting to reload.

5. Keep brass trimmed below max length.

There is no need to crimp for these rifles. Match bullets do not have a cannelure and those on some of the popular FMJ bullets will not locate in the case neck unless you seat the bullet unnecessarily deep. Some other tips-segregate brass by firing cycles and sort brass by weight for better accuracy. You can also de-burr the flash holes-a one time operation.
Click to expand...

I had my M1 out to the range today for handload testing, working up to 48.0gr of IMR4064 with 150gr. FMJ bullets. I started at 45.5gr and worked up to 48.0gr. Every load functioned with no problems and my rifle seemed to find a sweet spot around 47.0-47.5gr.

Mark
 
"...apologies in regards to the picture sizes..." It's only due to the time it takes a page with large pictures to load. Hard on the dial up members.
"...Only reload brass 4x..." Mine have been loaded far more than 4 times in 30 some years. Load 'em until you get a cracked neck, pitch that one and anneal the rest.
 
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