Winchester mod12

hey, looking for some "friendly"...lol advice. Looking to sell my mod 12, pics on page 8 i'm now asking 675, down from 750, still not getting much interest, so what is it worth? it truly is as mint as they come, I thought there'd be alittle more interest than i'm getting.
 
A super clean 1963 Model 12 with 30" FULL choke and plain barrel is worth about 450.00 tops. It has no special features to bring it out of the common level. It is at best a very nice gun for turkey hunting or hunting waterfowl with expensive no tox soft shot. If it had the original box, hang tag and sales slip it MAY appeal to a baby boomer bent on nostalgia but the version itself is not collectable. I know I just sold a real nice 1957 gun for under 400.00 and that was a hard sell.
 
madtrapper143 said:
A super clean 1963 Model 12 with 30" FULL choke and plain barrel is worth about 450.00 tops. It has no special features to bring it out of the common level. It is at best a very nice gun for turkey hunting or hunting waterfowl with expensive no tox soft shot. If it had the original box, hang tag and sales slip it MAY appeal to a baby boomer bent on nostalgia but the version itself is not collectable. I know I just sold a real nice 1957 gun for under 400.00 and that was a hard sell.
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This is bang on advice IMO. I would trim the barrel to 26" and have choke tubes installed along with a new bead. Great gun, just an old configuration when they were used for everything from foxes and jack rabbits to geese and ducks with lead shells.
 
Shibby! said:
Beauty!

I'm awaiting my "grade one" 20g to show up. For grade one I'm dang impressed.

It's not yours, but I imagine two diff price points!

Let's see some pics in the wild or on the field when you get a chance. Love the wood and gold in-lays.
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Will do! Already looking forward to a grouse stew. I’ve had a grade 1 in 20 & 28 as well as a grade 5 in 20. I wish now I’d kept the grade 5 20 to have a matching pair. Lol
 
i just don't get all the "never dry fire you gun" mentality. With a pump action shotgun how else are you supposed to ease the spring for storage or after each time you confirm the firearm safe?
with my precision rifles I dry fire frequently as trigger pull "squeeze" pratice. Although when not practicing I do hold the triger as I lower the bolt to minimize wear and tear. The only thing I don't dry fire are my bows and crossbows.
my 2 cents
 
hardsnow said:
i just don't get all the "never dry fire you gun" mentality. With a pump action shotgun how else are you supposed to ease the spring for storage or after each time you confirm the firearm safe?
with my precision rifles I dry fire frequently as trigger pull "squeeze" pratice. Although when not practicing I do hold the triger as I lower the bolt to minimize wear and tear. The only thing I don't dry fire are my bows and crossbows.
my 2 cents
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Your day of damage will come especially dry firing a model 12. Not into vintage pump shotguns are you :)
How about on the model 12 .
Release the action and then retract the slide until you feel the bolt contact the hammer, you'll know when it's there by feel. You can then pull the trigger and return the slide to it's forward position. The hammer will follow the bolt without impacting the firing pin.

Cheers
 
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Dry fire my firearms is something I just don't do. Have owned M12's since I was a boy and never worried over releasing the hammer spring. Still have a good many of them and all work just fine. The oldest is late 1912 early 1913 and another first year 12 ga. from 1914.

A few tips with the M12 as preventive measures, when you have time, remove the buttplate and tighten the stock bolt. The wood dries out and shrinks a tad over time. Check the stock bolt to prevent the stock cracking in the wrist area.

Also don't be dumping oil inside the receiver and standing the gun upright. There's a hole at the back of the receiver where the oil will seep into the stock and turn the wood punky. Learn how to remove and replace the trigger assy. to clean inside the receiver. Muzzle down, some Rem clean and blow it out with compressed air. Neatly and sparingly lubricate the contact points and a small tad of gun grease on the action slide nub where it pushes up on the rear of the bolt on closing. If you think you've over oiled then hit it again with compressed air.

When you re-assemble the trigger assy make sure you have the shell cutoff properly installed and lean the gun to one side so it stays in position when you slide the trigger assy back in.

As you all know, the M12 is a take down firearm but limit the take down to only when it's necessary as each time it wears the mating surface on both the receiver and receiver extension.
 
Rod said:
Dry fire my firearms is something I just don't do. Have owned M12's since I was a boy and never worried over releasing the hammer spring. Still have a good many of them and all work just fine. The oldest is late 1912 early 1913 and another first year 12 ga. from 1914.

A few tips with the M12 as preventive measures, when you have time, remove the buttplate and tighten the stock bolt. The wood dries out and shrinks a tad over time. Check the stock bolt to prevent the stock cracking in the wrist area.

Also don't be dumping oil inside the receiver and standing the gun upright. There's a hole at the back of the receiver where the oil will seep into the stock and turn the wood punky. Learn how to remove and replace the trigger assy. to clean inside the receiver. Muzzle down, some Rem clean and blow it out with compressed air. Neatly and sparingly lubricate the contact points and a small tad of gun grease on the action slide nub where it pushes up on the rear of the bolt on closing. If you think you've over oiled then hit it again with compressed air.

When you re-assemble the trigger assy make sure you have the shell cutoff properly installed and lean the gun to one side so it stays in position when you slide the trigger assy back in.

As you all know, the M12 is a take down firearm but limit the take down to only when it's necessary as each time it wears the mating surface on both the receiver and receiver extension.
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That's why it's made with an adjustable barrel ring.
 
3macs1 said:
Your day of damage will come especially dry firing a model 12. Not into vintage pump shotguns are you :)
How about on the model 12 .
Release the action and then retract the slide until you feel the bolt contact the hammer, you'll know when it's there by feel. You can then pull the trigger and return the slide to it's forward position. The hammer will follow the bolt without impacting the firing pin.

Cheers
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I admit the technique for releasing the firing pin without impact on a pump is news to me. I will use it as i do love my model 12. i'm still gonna dry fire my centre fire rifles when ever the fucvk i want though...
thanks
 
hardsnow said:
I admit the technique for releasing the firing pin without impact on a pump is news to me. I will use it as i do love my model 12. i'm still gonna dry fire my centre fire rifles when ever the fucvk i want though...
thanks
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Cool. Don't care what you do with your guns honestly they are yours just know from being around model 12's since the 60's they will break pins and in 2019 who works on them if you cannot do the work yourself
Kind Regards
 
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I often worried about hammer spring issues with my model 12. I also worried about firing pin breaking when dry firing without snap cap for off season storage. Here is my resolve. I leave it cocked year round. Hammer spring is 6.10 at Numrich if the spring goes soft. Firing pin is 35.00 if it breaks from dry firing. It will be cheaper to replace a hammer spring than a firing pin by far. I have heard that hammer springs rarely take a set in models 12. 3 macs idea of decocking is a good one. Have to practice it though my gun does not seem to want to do it.

Darryl
 
3macs1 said:
Your day of damage will come especially dry firing a model 12. Not into vintage pump shotguns are you :)
How about on the model 12 .
Release the action and then retract the slide until you feel the bolt contact the hammer, you'll know when it's there by feel. You can then pull the trigger and return the slide to it's forward position. The hammer will follow the bolt without impacting the firing pin.Cheers
Click to expand...

Hayyah mackattack…………………………..thanks fur the tip...………………………..:wave:
 
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