Hi, I have a Winchester model 12 in 12 gauge that I'm trying to find out what it's worth. The ser. # dates it to 1915. It's got normal wear for a 100 year old gun but not beat. No rust but bluing is a little thin on the edges. No major dings in the wood but a little flaking on the laquer. The but stock pad is hard. The wood is an awesome walnut root with cross gains. No checkering. It must've been beautiful when new. If anyone could give some insight on value it would be appreciated. Thanks. I'll try to add some pics.
Winchester model 12 12 gauge
- Thread starter Maj. Pane
- Start date
gunsaholic
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg, Manitoba
You have to go through a host such as photo bucket or the such.
I actually have 2 of them. Both are 2 3/4. The other one is a 1918 which was the old mans so I'm hanging on to that one. The one I'm selling was my uncles so there's less sentimental attachment to it and I don't really need 2 of them
1915 was the second year production for 12 gauge and 16 gauge Model 12's. . The 12 gauge began life with 2 3/4" chambers, so no need to measure chamber length. . If your gun is early 1915 it may have the early receiver top where the sighting plane wavy lines are only etched into the top only and not set into a groove, on the receiver top, as all other models after that had.
The early 20 ga M12's had 2 1/2" chamber and the early 16 ga. had 2 9/16: chambers.
To help determine value on early plain barrel Model 12, 12 gauge, aside from general appearance and original condition.
- original buttplate will add value, subtract for after market pad
- excessive bolt droop. . If the gun was run dry and dirty over the years it may have developed excessive bolt droop. . To check this; press your middle finger up the shell carrier until you're pressing up on the rear of the bolt. . If the bolt moves up and down more than 1/32" to max 1/16", there's excessive bolt droop and this subtracts from the value even as a shooter grade.
- position of the takedown adjustment bushing. . take the gun down and hold the muzzle down and look at the threaded take down bushing. . Looking down, the adjustment grooves should be mostly all to the left of the bushing locking lug. Preferably still on the first or second notch. If all the grooves are mostly to the right, then all the adjustment is used up and the gun will need the next size bushing which are difficult to obtain today and does detract from the value as a shooter. .
If the gun is in decent original looking condition with a shiny bore and the above mentioned factors are all good; your gun should be worth between $400 to $525. . If the gun gun is well worn, after market pad with droopy bolt and used up takedown bushing it's worth $200 to $250.. An early Model 12, in decent original condition, would make someone a nice upland or pheasant gun as these early nickel steel guns were very nice handling guns and many prefer them to the later models which some claim to be a heavier gun. . The only negative I've found with the early nickel steel guns , is the perch belly stocks were a tad short but the quick handling of these stocks make up for it.
The early 20 ga M12's had 2 1/2" chamber and the early 16 ga. had 2 9/16: chambers.
To help determine value on early plain barrel Model 12, 12 gauge, aside from general appearance and original condition.
- original buttplate will add value, subtract for after market pad
- excessive bolt droop. . If the gun was run dry and dirty over the years it may have developed excessive bolt droop. . To check this; press your middle finger up the shell carrier until you're pressing up on the rear of the bolt. . If the bolt moves up and down more than 1/32" to max 1/16", there's excessive bolt droop and this subtracts from the value even as a shooter grade.
- position of the takedown adjustment bushing. . take the gun down and hold the muzzle down and look at the threaded take down bushing. . Looking down, the adjustment grooves should be mostly all to the left of the bushing locking lug. Preferably still on the first or second notch. If all the grooves are mostly to the right, then all the adjustment is used up and the gun will need the next size bushing which are difficult to obtain today and does detract from the value as a shooter. .
If the gun is in decent original looking condition with a shiny bore and the above mentioned factors are all good; your gun should be worth between $400 to $525. . If the gun gun is well worn, after market pad with droopy bolt and used up takedown bushing it's worth $200 to $250.. An early Model 12, in decent original condition, would make someone a nice upland or pheasant gun as these early nickel steel guns were very nice handling guns and many prefer them to the later models which some claim to be a heavier gun. . The only negative I've found with the early nickel steel guns , is the perch belly stocks were a tad short but the quick handling of these stocks make up for it.
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Hmm that's interesting if all the M12 12 gauges have 2 3/4" chambers, when I first got it and fired it with regular 2 3/4" target loads the chambered and fired but the spent cases wouldn't eject. The unfolded edge of the crimp would just catch. When I asked at a gun store I was told it probably had a short 2 1/2" chamber and sold some shells of that size. Those shells worked perfectly for what it's worth...
madtrapper143
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Steep Rock Lake NWO
The recent manufacture Euro hulls are very slightly longer than the old WW AA and Remington loads. I suspect that is the issue with your gun (if your shells are Cheditte or Fiocchi manufactured). If your gun has a short chamber in 12 gauge it is the only one Winchester made. I suspect a worn set of extractors is allowing the hull to shift forward on extraction. The combination of wear and the longer hull could be the issue.
Darryl
Darryl
All Model 12, 12 gauge guns came with 2 3/4 chambers as did all M1897, 12 ga guns. . You may have a worn ejector and ejector spring. The guy at the gun store didn't know what he was talking about.. The early 20 ga. M12 has 2 1/2" chamber and the early 16 ga. had 2 9/16".
The longer the shell, the longer the ejector spring. .This goes for the heavy duck gun, 3", as well.
Open the action and you'll see the ejector in front of the open bolt. . The ejector itself could be worn or the tip broken off. If it looks good and you're okay with pulling out the trigger assy. and can put back correctly; then slip out the ejector and re-arc the ejector flat spring and that may work for you. . If that doesn't work, buy a new ejector and spring for 2 3/4" shells. Western Gun Parts should have one or look on ebay.
OK thanks guys I will look into the ejector. My M12 is rough looking but a stI'll a shooter and you can still tell it's a very finely made firearm. I haven't seen anything close to this level of machining and fitting on my newer shotguns. It would be nice to take it out for upland game some time. 
