Winchester model 12 - use steel shot?

chimera

chimera

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I recently inherited my grandfather's old Winchester model 12. Looked up the serial, and it was made in 1962.

I was planning on taking it out bird hunting this fall, in place of my BPS, but a friend tells me that with the full choke on the Winchester, I risk damaging the barrel if I use steel shot. Anyone know if this is true?

One other question - did this barrel come in other chokes, or were they all full choke? Thanks if anyone can help out.
 
Don't know about Winchester, but I have a 1957 Remington and a 1964 Browning that were both originally full choked that have been opened up to modified and take steel shot just fine.

I'll admit though, it' s not recommended by Browning to use steel in their Belgian guns, but my gunsmith says he's done dozens with no complaints. I don't use anything bigger than BB in it though. I prefer #3 shot for that gun anyway and probably won't use it on geese any more.
 
I have an older remmington model 58 3inch mag full choke. I patterned it with Kent fasteel # 2 and #1 shot. It a has a tight pattern and I have put 5 or 6 cases of shells thru this gun hunting waterfowl.I wanted to see if the steel would be affect the choke or barrel ,so far no problems.
 
Have it opened up to improved cylinder choke. That way you can use it for both upland w/lead shot and waterfowl w/steel.



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lucky07 said:
the choke will wear out eventually and you'll end up with a mod choke. Nothing wrong with it but it can wear down real fast in some cases.
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I have shot many cases of steel out of model 12's that were opened up to modified, but would not shoot steel through the original full choke. In my experience, the choke does not "wear" open on full choked guns shooting steel, a ring bulge appears behind the choke and if you're not lucky the barrel splits. I have only ever seen two guns with single scratches at the choke from steel pellets that were not completely enclosed in the wad upon firing, I don't think it is normal for quality steel ammo to "wear" out a choke.
 
Thanks to everyone who replied. This confirms what my friend told me - don't do it if you value the firearm. I do value this one quite alot, so it's going to be lead only, as I'd rather keep it in it's original condition, and hunt with other shotguns.

I'll try to find a way to link a photo, it's a real beauty and in perfect condition.
 
chimera said:
Thanks to everyone who replied. This confirms what my friend told me - don't do it if you value the firearm. I do value this one quite alot, so it's going to be lead only, as I'd rather keep it in it's original condition, and hunt with other shotguns.

I'll try to find a way to link a photo, it's a real beauty and in perfect condition.
Click to expand...

There ius also non toxic shot shells available for older guns that you could use with it once or twice a year, just for fun!
Cat
 
Here ya go. From the pictures I've seen, most seem to have a different foregrip and different wood.

IMG_1476.jpg
 
Yours seems to be an original Trap gun, complete with the "duck bill" type rib extension back over the receiver. If so, there should be a clearly visible Winchester proof mark on both the barrel and receiver where they join, just below the left side of the rib.

... the field guns did not generally have the Monte Carlo stock . The "grooved" ( some refer to them as "corn-cob" ) forends were typically found on field guns ... early models smaller and shorter. Yours has a deluxe or target type forend, most often found on the Model 12 Trap & Skeet guns ( and on "deluxe" field guns)

Many "field guns" were converted to Trap guns ... wood upgrades, Simmons rib & reblued.
A knowledgeable "Model 12 man" should be able to tell you on a fairly quick up-close inspection

Model 12's came with other choke constrictions, however Trap guns were most often "Full", as were I would think, the majority of field guns.

I wouldn't modify the gun whatsoever ... nor would I shoot steel through it.
 
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