Winchester Pre 64 M70 action modification

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bigbull

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Hi Guys, I have a dilemma, I have a Winchester Pre64 M70 standard rifle that has had the action modified, bubba filed the top of the reciever ring and now there is a gap under the scope base rear bridge is ok.
Is there a safe way of rebuilding the removed metal?
Aside from this the rifle is stock with a clean barrel and it shoots lights out, caliber is 30-06
BB
M70 mod1.jpg
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M70 mod3.jpg
 

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DO NOT WELD IT!
Was this a target rifle?If so likely done to get more elevation on the scope for long range shooting.Just bed the bases with devcon or something similar and shoot away.
 
I have a pre-64 M70 made in 1955, also in 30-06. On mine, the top surface has a strip of matte-ing down the centre line - about 1/2" or slightly less wide. Was always a real thing to place metal shims between receiver and scope base, to get solid bearing - would be a good start to use strips from feeler gauge set to determine how much shim is needed. Not clear if that filing job was even around the circumference or flat across the top? The original is pretty much a "rounded top" so likely needs thicker shim along centre line of those scope mount holes, than it does along the edges of the scope base.

If you go the epoxy route, is helpful to use masking tape and carefully make a tight "edge" all around the scope base perimeter - that way, any "ooze" sticks to masking tape, not to exposed metal - much easier to clean up. Depending on epoxy used, might be helpful to put in a drop of black dye?
 
I agree with Gary... simply bed underneath using a good base. I would use a release agent on the action and let the bedding stick with the base.

It's quite possible the butcher didn't have the correct base and it was easier to file the action flat than to contour the base.
 
G.E.FLACH said:
DO NOT WELD IT!
Was this a target rifle?If so likely done to get more elevation on the scope for long range shooting.Just bed the bases with devcon or something similar and shoot away.
Click to expand...

Gary and guntech, I don't have the rifles history so I cannot say if it was a target rifle, I could say that whoever did these mods was as gt said a butcher, it is not done evenly and seems to have been
filed and sanded, surprisingly the standard bases fit perfectly but there is a gap between the base and the receiver although either side of the base makes contact so yes it can be filled with something like Devcon but
and I mean but the forward and rear edge that the base does not cover will look odd unless the devcon is extended on both sides and countoured into the action profile, but then what to do.......paint it or !?!?
This assuming the Devcon is adhered to the action of coarse. But if done as GT states what to do with the exposed action area?
bb

PS; I should add that I do have metal lathes, milling machines and surface grinders so I can take different paths to do the work.
 
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Potashminer said:
I have a pre-64 M70 made in 1955, also in 30-06. On mine, the top surface has a strip of matte-ing down the centre line - about 1/2" or slightly less wide. Was always a real thing to place metal shims between receiver and scope base, to get solid bearing - would be a good start to use strips from feeler gauge set to determine how much shim is needed. Not clear if that filing job was even around the circumference or flat across the top? The original is pretty much a "rounded top" so likely needs thicker shim along centre line of those scope mount holes, than it does along the edges of the scope base.

If you go the epoxy route, is helpful to use masking tape and carefully make a tight "edge" all around the scope base perimeter - that way, any "ooze" sticks to masking tape, not to exposed metal - much easier to clean up. Depending on epoxy used, might be helpful to put in a drop of black dye?
Click to expand...

Potash, this was a hack job it was filed and the forward and rear part of the action ring is filed crooked (slopes off) and it is not flat but radiused but very slightly, it is not flat on top.
bb
 
I do not know if you have access to a mill? Set up so bottom flat perfectly square, then take very, very light pass with flat end mill to "square up" that top - like a couple thou at the worst place - to get a reference for where "square" and "flat" is? Make a flat shim to set your base onto, then fill surround with expoxy? Or, I have a receiver mandrel with a holding jig - allows that curve to be re-cut by taking dozens of very light milling passes as the mandrel is rotated slightly each time. Maybe could be done to a layer of epoxy like stuff built up on that top area? Whatever, I do very much agree with above - DO NOT WELD - that receiver ring has the bolt lugs on inside and is the one place on that kind of receiver that the heat treat must be kept as it was proofed.
 
When it is epoxied with the rings and scope in place it will not stand out as much as it does now... but you will always see it more than anyone else... it is what it is...
 
I agree with guntech - the "buddy" who took a file to it did what he did - took a $1,000 rifle (maybe) and turned it into a $200 one - I am not good at actual prices, so probably exaggerating, but hope that you get my "drift". Best that you can do is patch it up to somewhere in between. Shooting well and working correctly pretty important!! Looking original is "nice", but someone before you made that decision...

I am speaking from experience with this 1955 one - somebody drilled and tapped three holes into the side wall - presumably for some sort of scope mount?? The receiver top is drilled and tapped for conventional bases - do not know if that was "standard" from factory in those days or not? But still - how may holes needed to mount a scope???

Reviewing your pictures, the receiver is showing edge wear, etc. Might be okay with that dark grey colour that JB Weld goes to? Else looking at Gunkote or Ceracoat - and then where to stop - include the barrel or not, bottom metal, and so on?
 
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