Finally got to shoot my new tikka varmint .222 . I shot 10 rounds -cleaning after every shot from 25 yards then 2 groups of 5 cleaning after 5 shots. Then i put up a target at 100 yards and cranked up the elite 6x24x40. I shot 9 more groups with 9 different loads i made. Out of 9 groups 6 were .75 inches or less. One was .3 inch 4 shot group. This was with the min load of 17.5 gr 4198 and a 55gr solid point. Shes broken in, i cant wait to see the groups it will do when it gets a little dirty.
Winter break-in
- Thread starter ronaldharold
- Start date
Hmm, it's debatable but in my opinion the break-in is a waste of time. I have plenty of fine shooting rifles and I don't do any type of break in procedure/ceremonial dance. There are plenty of other precision shooters who will agree that the procedure is a waste of time. Otherwise, it's great to hear that your tikka is shooting well. Post some pictures of the rifle and the groups.
I thought Winter Break In was going to be about the shooter learning to adapt to the cold! But, with respect to the gun, I'm not so sure any kind of break in procedure is required to gain accuracy. The first shot out of the barrel may even be the best one it will ever shoot.
That said, the bore probably will be rougher than it needs to be and will pick up copper faster when it is new. You did not mention what evidence of copper there was. I use Barnes CR-10, and white patches around a nylon brush. When I can shoot 50 rounds or so, and the first patch comes out black, and the second with no hint of blue (indicating copper), then I consider it broke in.
I think break-in is an unsubstantiated myth, but what the hell, you got to go out and shoot with what I think is one of the nicest 22 cal cartridges going.
CyaN1de and I have both competed in the BC provincial F-Class matches (240 rounds, 4 days) and won the Lt. Governor's Prize.... we never cleaned for the whole time.
It depends on powders, but like Dennis says, wait until accuracy drops off. Powders like Norma 203B are made from old tires and foul like white shorts at a prune eating contest. Varget is very clean burning and negates the need to frequently clean.
CyaN1de and I have both competed in the BC provincial F-Class matches (240 rounds, 4 days) and won the Lt. Governor's Prize.... we never cleaned for the whole time.
It depends on powders, but like Dennis says, wait until accuracy drops off. Powders like Norma 203B are made from old tires and foul like white shorts at a prune eating contest. Varget is very clean burning and negates the need to frequently clean.
TERMINATOR101CA
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I understand powder but, what about copper fouling ? 240 rnds without cleaning in a competition, sounds a bit extreme. Did you notice any change at all in your grouping(affected by the fouling obviously, not shooter error) during the whole time ?
Lapped match barrels do not copper foul - at least none of mine do. The layer of copper laid down is molecules thick and that is nothing. Factory barrels of the other hand are friggen horrrible. Have a look at this video and you will see why they scrape off copper and foul so bad. Trust me, Savage, Winchester Browning etc. etc. are all exactly the same.
Agree with Obtunded. Did no break in what so ever with my 260AI precision barrel. Barrel life is short so decided to shoot and learn the wind rather than waste time risking damage to the barrel. So far I only use foaming bore cleaner (non ammonia as it will etch metal where left too long) to clean over night, clean as a whistle after three tries. Brushes are kept in their containers. Will make a pass with brushes once or twice per 100 rounds.
After trying tubbs final finish on 3 factory barrels now I can say it will be my go to method for any factory tubes down the line. It drastically reduces copper fouling issues and in my examples, using the same cleaning method as above, will achieve similar results to the precision barrel clean up time.
After trying tubbs final finish on 3 factory barrels now I can say it will be my go to method for any factory tubes down the line. It drastically reduces copper fouling issues and in my examples, using the same cleaning method as above, will achieve similar results to the precision barrel clean up time.
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Here we go again... one theory against, one theory for...
You will find varying opinions about barrel break in... or how often you should clean it...
...some say do it
...some say don't do it
...some even go so far as to say it is recommended by barrel makes so you will wear your barrel out faster
(That’s a myth)
...some even get pissed off talking about it
I particularly like what Lilja (one of the most respected and very knowledgeable barrel makers and shooter) has to say about it.
"It is important to break-in a barrel though. The jacket material must be removed after every shot during the initial few rounds. If this isn't done the areas of the barrel that fouled will tend to pick up more fouling and it will build on itself. It is important to get a layer of powder fouling on top of the lands & grooves. This hard deposit will prevent the copper from stripping off the bullets. However, if the internal finish of the barrel is too rough the barrel will never be completely broken-in and fouling will always be a problem. Some barrels can't be broken-in. "
But the original poster wasn't asking the question...
You will find varying opinions about barrel break in... or how often you should clean it...
...some say do it
...some say don't do it
...some even go so far as to say it is recommended by barrel makes so you will wear your barrel out faster
(That’s a myth)
...some even get pissed off talking about it
I particularly like what Lilja (one of the most respected and very knowledgeable barrel makers and shooter) has to say about it.
"It is important to break-in a barrel though. The jacket material must be removed after every shot during the initial few rounds. If this isn't done the areas of the barrel that fouled will tend to pick up more fouling and it will build on itself. It is important to get a layer of powder fouling on top of the lands & grooves. This hard deposit will prevent the copper from stripping off the bullets. However, if the internal finish of the barrel is too rough the barrel will never be completely broken-in and fouling will always be a problem. Some barrels can't be broken-in. "
But the original poster wasn't asking the question...
I break in "match" bbls. shoot 1, clean, shoot 3 clean, shoot 3, clean, shoot 5, clean. That pretty much sums it up.
I NEVER put a rifle or handgun away that is not clean, with exception of .22 rimfire non match grade.
To each is their own, i just notice its easier to maintain a clean gun.
As a Tikka owner, in .223, doing breakin, its still as accurate 2 yrs later and is a keeper. Congrats on your purchase.
I NEVER put a rifle or handgun away that is not clean, with exception of .22 rimfire non match grade.
To each is their own, i just notice its easier to maintain a clean gun.
As a Tikka owner, in .223, doing breakin, its still as accurate 2 yrs later and is a keeper. Congrats on your purchase.
I never understood the philosophy behind "shoot it 'til accuracy falls off".....why would you want that?.....why not keep your barrel clean?
I know, I know.....
Just seems a fundamental flaw in reasoning....
Even with Benchrest Shooting where barrels are cleaned very often for best consistent accuracy a barrel usually requires a fouling shot before a group will settle in. A little powder fouling doesn't hurt accuracy and on a good barrel will help reduce the jacket fouling which can harm accuracy.
In Benchrest Shooting if you wait until the accuracy falls off you waited too long... other forms of shooting are not so severe.
Something that has not been mentioned is incorrect cleaning can damage a barrel. A good bore guide should be used and a quality rod.
Lt Governor awards and Provincial Championship Trophies over the past 3 yrs between Ian, Shockman (CGN) and myself were all won with no cleaning during the entire 4 days.
