Wk180-c feedback

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RobbieLaidlaw said:
Hey guys,

Can someone point me to internal upgrades for the WK?
Ive seen RWA's parts, i will most likely purchase the cam pin if mine appears to be rough.

What i cant seem to find are springs, as i do not know the exact specs i am looking for.

Thanks!
-Robbie L
Click to expand...

Not sure if I can post a link on Wolverine's forum, so I'll just mention the Calgary Shooting Centre sells an RWA WK parts kit.
 
I received my rifle last night. Version '3' with the Threaded handle. High serial number, over 2k.

Initial Impressions:

It looks great, the finish is nice. Came with two Pmag's and the CRT stock.

I was surprised as to how easy it was to take apart. Everyone complaining about difficult takedown either has weak hands, no tools, or perhaps Kodiak has fixed this.

The trigger does not feel as bad as people say. Mine is around 8 pounds.

The wiggle between the receivers was far less than what i was expecting. Multiple members have been complaining about the wiggle, but honestly its hardly any wiggle.
I did use the o-ring to eliminate all wiggle, it is now extremely tight and zero movement.

The hand guard is beautiful and light. Love it.

All of my 1913 attachments fit perfectly fine.

I really do not like the grip at all. Its the worst. Thankfully its extremely cheap to upgrade.

Things i'll look out for:

Today, 150 rounds of 55g winchester FMJ will be sent through. I am going to do the recommended break in. I will write an update post as to how it goes.

I am curious how well the charging handle threads will keep together after multiple tightenings/removals.

There is a new muzzle break on its way to me, i am curious how difficult it will be to remove the stock muzzle break.

I have one metal pistol mag, i will be testing it and will report back.

An accuracy test will be held tonight.

Upgrades:

The very minimal play from the receivers has already been removed, as mentioned above.

I have a G2s in the mail, it will be installed for my next outing.

I have already put a new stock on, very easy, love to keep it light.

I do own multiple hand-guards, but i love the stock one and most likely will never attempt to remove the stock guard, all of the fasteners on the guard are very tight.

An AR15 extractor spring will be installed.

Multiple pistol mags will be used.

:Conclusion
I am very impressed with what i've received for the price. The only other AR i have used extensive was the C7 carbine, which cost double the price.
The C7 is beautiful and accurate. This is nothing like it. However, this rifle is everything you could ask for in a cheap Canadian made, Non-Restricto AR.

Functional review is next.

-Robbie L
 
I was so excited when I received my WK. took her to the range and, after 50 rounds or so the bolt carrier broke. Kodiak took care of it! thx Kodiak! so, I get it out, put 100 rounds down range and it ran great. well, one FTE. no biggie I thought... today I go to the range ran 20 rounds through it and after that I was getting more FTE's. had a look and found one of the lugs broke off the bolt face! (just can't win) I'm not sure if it's a different bolt than the original as I sent in the bolt and carrier.. when I first got it back it looked like a complete new unit, not 100% sure though.

emailed Own this morning and am waiting for a reply. the carrier issue seems fairly common due to the nitriding (spelling?) of the carrier. is this bolt issue common? or am I just super unlucky? im sure Kodiak will send me a new bolt but, geez this is frustrating...
 
I purchased my WK-180C from a local shop last Saturday (7/6/2019, put down a deposit with them in February). Has a serial number higher than the recall for the bolt so hopefully that won't be a problem.

I've only done the barrel break in at this point, with a couple more groups for fun. Roughly 70 rounds. A mix of Federal .223, Federal XM193, Federal XM855, and PPU M193. No issues so far, the scuffing from shell casings has started already but my 3d printed shell deflector is now here so I'll try that out the next time.

Important Notes:
-Bolt has the screw type charging handle. Great!
-Play between upper and lower is very minimal, could be eliminated with an O-ring as others have mentioned but I don't care to.
-Hand guard screws are in so tight I started bending my hex-head tool and decided to stop trying to remove them, not a huge deal as I was able to take the gas piston out for cleaning without removing the hand guard.
-Gas tube screw was in very tight, but I was able to get it out with some leverage. The spring does not come out with the piston without taking the hand guard off. I'm sure you can finesse it out. I had to use a small hex-head tool to help guide the spring and rod back in when re-assembling.
-Trigger feels fine, I'm new to firearms and have minimal experience firing an SKS, henry lever action .22, winchester 94 30-30, and an Enfield .303. Doesn't bother me at all.
-Safety is easy to use, sometimes I flick it on the right side with my index finger, sometimes I use my thumb on the left side.
-Not sure on the brand of stock I received, but it's lovely.
-Came with one CProducts Defense 5/30 round magazine. Fits loose compared to my CProducts Defense Lar-15 pistol mags. But both types worked fine for my testing.
-Magazine shoots out quite nicely under spring tension when the release is pressed.
-No problems with over-insertion, I don't slam my magazines in. I guide them in and then push firmly. When it clicks in I stop and give it a yank to ensure it doesn't fall out.
-It did not come with a warranty card, just a sticker. The plastic folder thing inside the box looks unopened and I've left it that way as proof there was no warranty card in there. The shop said they will take care of the warranty so long as I keep my receipt from them.

I didn't know a lot about the AR-180 platform before, other than this was my way to get an inexpensive non-restricted ar-like platform that I can take out and shoot cans with, or take to the range, or bring to the gunsmith whenever I want, that hopefully wont be banned anytime soon.

The more I learn the more appreciative I am of this rifle. The AR-18 was designed to be a cheaper, easier to manufacture rifle. Less developed allied countries could do most of the manufacturing domestically due to minimal machining cuts required (for eg. the bolt rides the rods containing the recoil springs, eliminating the need for slots to be machined in the receiver). For whatever reason, be it pride or coincidence, it wasn't widely adopted. Simply because it is less popular, it was never banned or restricted by name here in Canada. And thanks to Wolverine and Kodiak we have a modernized and quite frankly superior version of the AR-180 available here.
It's a unicorn gun.
If you have your restricted you sure can get a superior AR. As an individual gun it isn't the greatest. But as a whole this is exactly what Canada needed in my opinion.

Personally I feel I own a superior firearm to an AR-15. In theory, as a platform, it should be just as reliable if not more-so than an AR-15 of comparable quality (due to piston operation and not gas impingement alone, though this is said to negatively affect accuracy minimally so there is a tradeoff). It'll run cooler due to the piston. Wolverine-Kodiak has made it accept as many AR parts as possible so the market availability isn't as much of an issue as an older AR-180(B). It's easy to takedown and clean. It accepts any optic or rail attachment you could want. And it's truly Canadian.

Glad to be a part of the process, the rifle is continually improving as the serial numbers go up. For me the wait was worth it.
 
AR almost, feels hell yeah!

FenixPK said:
I purchased my WK-180C from a local shop last Saturday (7/6/2019, put down a deposit with them in February). Has a serial number higher than the recall for the bolt so hopefully that won't be a problem.

I've only done the barrel break in at this point, with a couple more groups for fun. Roughly 70 rounds. A mix of Federal .223, Federal XM193, Federal XM855, and PPU M193. No issues so far, the scuffing from shell casings has started already but my 3d printed shell deflector is now here so I'll try that out the next time.

Important Notes:
-Bolt has the screw type charging handle. Great!
-Play between upper and lower is very minimal, could be eliminated with an O-ring as others have mentioned but I don't care to.
-Hand guard screws are in so tight I started bending my hex-head tool and decided to stop trying to remove them, not a huge deal as I was able to take the gas piston out for cleaning without removing the hand guard.
-Gas tube screw was in very tight, but I was able to get it out with some leverage. The spring does not come out with the piston without taking the hand guard off. I'm sure you can finesse it out. I had to use a small hex-head tool to help guide the spring and rod back in when re-assembling.
-Trigger feels fine, I'm new to firearms and have minimal experience firing an SKS, henry lever action .22, winchester 94 30-30, and an Enfield .303. Doesn't bother me at all.
-Safety is easy to use, sometimes I flick it on the right side with my index finger, sometimes I use my thumb on the left side.
-Not sure on the brand of stock I received, but it's lovely.
-Came with one CProducts Defense 5/30 round magazine. Fits loose compared to my CProducts Defense Lar-15 pistol mags. But both types worked fine for my testing.
-Magazine shoots out quite nicely under spring tension when the release is pressed.
-No problems with over-insertion, I don't slam my magazines in. I guide them in and then push firmly. When it clicks in I stop and give it a yank to ensure it doesn't fall out.
-It did not come with a warranty card, just a sticker. The plastic folder thing inside the box looks unopened and I've left it that way as proof there was no warranty card in there. The shop said they will take care of the warranty so long as I keep my receipt from them.

I didn't know a lot about the AR-180 platform before, other than this was my way to get an inexpensive non-restricted ar-like platform that I can take out and shoot cans with, or take to the range, or bring to the gunsmith whenever I want, that hopefully wont be banned anytime soon.

The more I learn the more appreciative I am of this rifle. The AR-18 was designed to be a cheaper, easier to manufacture rifle. Less developed allied countries could do most of the manufacturing domestically due to minimal machining cuts required (for eg. the bolt rides the rods containing the recoil springs, eliminating the need for slots to be machined in the receiver). For whatever reason, be it pride or coincidence, it wasn't widely adopted. Simply because it is less popular, it was never banned or restricted by name here in Canada. And thanks to Wolverine and Kodiak we have a modernized and quite frankly superior version of the AR-180 available here.
It's a unicorn gun.
If you have your restricted you sure can get a superior AR. As an individual gun it isn't the greatest. But as a whole this is exactly what Canada needed in my opinion.

Personally I feel I own a superior firearm to an AR-15. In theory, as a platform, it should be just as reliable if not more-so than an AR-15 of comparable quality (due to piston operation and not gas impingement alone, though this is said to negatively affect accuracy minimally so there is a tradeoff). It'll run cooler due to the piston. Wolverine-Kodiak has made it accept as many AR parts as possible so the market availability isn't as much of an issue as an older AR-180(B). It's easy to takedown and clean. It accepts any optic or rail attachment you could want. And it's truly Canadian.

Glad to be a part of the process, the rifle is continually improving as the serial numbers go up. For me the wait was worth it.
Click to expand...

Yeah! For the price and non restricted I say it is worth it! My friends going to flip and I hope they have bullets, for sure they gonna want to shoot my unicorn rifle.
 
Hey guys, this is a warning or at least some info and experience about using the 'Upper/Lower play issue fix'.

I found a perfectly sized O-ring in the garage and put it where recommended, it worked great (zero play) for about 400 rounds before the ring broke.

The problem: The area right above the location i fitted my O-ring to seemed to have a lot more wear than the rest of the upper. Specifically, where the BCG rides (top and bottom). Of course, like any other WK, the cam pin grinds a small portion of the upper, not enough on my rifle to even care. The wear on my rifle is very small compared to others i have seen. (This shows Kodiak making improvements, well done Kodiak).

Anyways, i believe by raising the upper ever so slightly via an O-ring, the BCG does not have the perfect clearance it would have, had the upper been in its original position i.e. slightly lower (The height of the O-ring to be exact). Because of this, the bottom of my BCG, and right where the bottom of the BCG meets with the aluminum above the O-ring is ground down quite a bit. Theres also very minimal wear (finish scratches) on the inner-top of the receiver where the BCG rides, exclusively above the part where the O-ring is placed.

I decided not to replace the broken O-ring with a new one and just live with the slight wiggle. I imagine this will also make cycles more smooth because the bottom of the BCG wont be hitting the aluminum so hard (not that i had an issue with rough cycles, just an idea).

On a side note: I have had little to no problems with my rifle after 500 rounds. However, coincidentally or not, at the same time my O-ring broke, before i could remove the O-ring i had a problem depressing the take down 'button'. It was extremely stiff and would not move at all. This was post range day where i really tried to put the rifle through its paces, firing rapidly, getting it quite hot etc.

I have no proof to believe this is the sole cause, but i suspect the reason i couldn't press the recoil springs in was because the O-ring was holding the upper too high and made it so the plate that the recoil springs sit in became jammed in the receiver.
I have read somewhere of someone else having a problem with taking down the rifle because of a stuck plate, however i do not recall them giving much detail, they just blamed Kodiak.
The remedy was a tinsmith hammer lightly tapping the recoil spring plate until it was in far enough that i could separate the upper/lower.
Even after i separated the upper/lower, the plate remained jammed inside of the upper. I have photos of it stuck in there if anyone is interested. I got the plate out by tapping the back of it.

On a side-side note: After removing the O-ring, i have also noticed a reduction in the amount of brass residue inside the receiver. I am not sure why this is, i might be wrong about this seeing as i've only fired ~100 rounds since removing the O-ring.

My rifle has been running fine ever since. If anyone has any extra info, or corrections about my experience id appreciate the insight. Thanks guys.
 
RobbieLaidlaw said:
Hey guys, this is a warning or at least some info and experience about using the 'Upper/Lower play issue fix'.

I found a perfectly sized O-ring in the garage and put it where recommended, it worked great (zero play) for about 400 rounds before the ring broke.

The problem: The area right above the location i fitted my O-ring to seemed to have a lot more wear than the rest of the upper. Specifically, where the BCG rides (top and bottom). Of course, like any other WK, the cam pin grinds a small portion of the upper, not enough on my rifle to even care. The wear on my rifle is very small compared to others i have seen. (This shows Kodiak making improvements, well done Kodiak).

Anyways, i believe by raising the upper ever so slightly via an O-ring, the BCG does not have the perfect clearance it would have, had the upper been in its original position i.e. slightly lower (The height of the O-ring to be exact). Because of this, the bottom of my BCG, and right where the bottom of the BCG meets with the aluminum above the O-ring is ground down quite a bit. Theres also very minimal wear (finish scratches) on the inner-top of the receiver where the BCG rides, exclusively above the part where the O-ring is placed.

I decided not to replace the broken O-ring with a new one and just live with the slight wiggle. I imagine this will also make cycles more smooth because the bottom of the BCG wont be hitting the aluminum so hard (not that i had an issue with rough cycles, just an idea).

On a side note: I have had little to no problems with my rifle after 500 rounds. However, coincidentally or not, at the same time my O-ring broke, before i could remove the O-ring i had a problem depressing the take down 'button'. It was extremely stiff and would not move at all. This was post range day where i really tried to put the rifle through its paces, firing rapidly, getting it quite hot etc.

I have no proof to believe this is the sole cause, but i suspect the reason i couldn't press the recoil springs in was because the O-ring was holding the upper too high and made it so the plate that the recoil springs sit in became jammed in the receiver.
I have read somewhere of someone else having a problem with taking down the rifle because of a stuck plate, however i do not recall them giving much detail, they just blamed Kodiak.
The remedy was a tinsmith hammer lightly tapping the recoil spring plate until it was in far enough that i could separate the upper/lower.
Even after i separated the upper/lower, the plate remained jammed inside of the upper. I have photos of it stuck in there if anyone is interested. I got the plate out by tapping the back of it.

On a side-side note: After removing the O-ring, i have also noticed a reduction in the amount of brass residue inside the receiver. I am not sure why this is, i might be wrong about this seeing as i've only fired ~100 rounds since removing the O-ring.

My rifle has been running fine ever since. If anyone has any extra info, or corrections about my experience id appreciate the insight. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

Interesting results - I don't plan on using an o-ring fix precisely for that reason. I took a good look at the play between the upper and lower and if anything I'd want to cinch them together (perhaps future WK's can have a second takedown pin at the rear?), not wedge them apart.
 
Just got word today that mine is on the way... can someone point me at the break in process that is mentioned in this thread? This is my first AR style rifle... I know, I know... but I am primarily a hunter... bought this because it seemed like a good idea last October... and now it will be a reality...

Should I bother with a deflector? I am not super concerned if the damage is only lipstick... welcome any other thoughts about how to best treat the new beast... (it's supposed to be one of the newest designs; which hopefully will bypass some of the 1st/2nd gen issues...
 
Kirkwood said:
Just got word today that mine is on the way... can someone point me at the break in process that is mentioned in this thread? This is my first AR style rifle... I know, I know... but I am primarily a hunter... bought this because it seemed like a good idea last October... and now it will be a reality...

Should I bother with a deflector? I am not super concerned if the damage is only lipstick... welcome any other thoughts about how to best treat the new beast... (it's supposed to be one of the newest designs; which hopefully will bypass some of the 1st/2nd gen issues...
Click to expand...

Break in procedure is in Section 8.4
https://www.wolverinesupplies.com/d...kodwk180c_productmanual.pdf?sfvrsn=a7529fd7_2

Deflector; well the marks are not horrible unless you are anal about them. There are pics around in this thread.
 
Got mine last week and got it out to the range yesterday... all I can say is Wolverine delivered the goods. Damn thing is like a laser beam at 100yrds. With a vortex strikefire II I was ringing at 6 inch gong on every shot. And I put almost 150 rnds through her after break in.

Worth the wait, period.

Thank you Wolverine for all your hard work on bringing this beauty to market!!
 
Paul_T said:
Break in procedure is in Section 8.4
https://www.wolverinesupplies.com/d...kodwk180c_productmanual.pdf?sfvrsn=a7529fd7_2

Deflector; well the marks are not horrible unless you are anal about them. There are pics around in this thread.
Click to expand...

thanks for the link... yeah if it's nothing worse than what I have seen here I do not care... I am not expecting this rifle to last into old age... following learning the basics with it I figure I will want to build my next AR from 0... and will likely take the time to only get quality components.
 
Kirkwood said:
thanks for the link... yeah if it's nothing worse than what I have seen here I do not care... I am not expecting this rifle to last into old age... following learning the basics with it I figure I will want to build my next AR from 0... and will likely take the time to only get quality components.
Click to expand...

Aside from preventing the cosmetic damage it will also help eject the brass forward rather than directly out the side. When I was doing the break-in period I had brass ending up 4 to 5 benches to my right. Thankfully only one other person was at the range, exactly 5 benches over (it landed near their feet, but were landing on top of the benches closer to me).

With the deflector on I'd say 75% of the brass ends up in front of me, and 25% lands on the bench directly next to me. But I haven't had any go farther than that since.

ALSO - Update on the rifle. I've gone back to the range a few times now. Between 200 and 300 rounds through the rifle at this point.
I had the firing pin fly out of the BCG due to the retaining pin walking loose! My bad for not being more thoughtful. If you take the BCG apart when putting the retaining pin back in make sure to use a flathead screwdriver or something similar to pry the two ends of the retaining pin apart so it is wedged in there and can't just walk itself out. No serious damage but I didn't notice and thus dropped the hammer onto the spring that had come out, so now my spring is a little deformed but it hasn't affected the function at all. I thought it was a light primer strike or a hang fire, but after waiting and then trying to eject the round I realized the bolt was stuck, and when I looked boy did I have a mess to sort out in that receiver. I put it all back together and enjoyed the rest of the day AFTER wedging the ends of the retaining pin outward so it can't slide out again.

As for the previous comment about this rifle being a laser, despite my inexperience I would have to agree. At 100 yards I can barely see the target with my vortex red-dot and I'm getting 6-7 inch groups with both 62gr and 55gr (I'm absolutely new to shooting and thus a terrible marksman, learning trigger control, breathing etc.).
 
RobbieLaidlaw said:
Hey guys, this is a warning or at least some info and experience about using the 'Upper/Lower play issue fix'.

I found a perfectly sized O-ring in the garage and put it where recommended, it worked great (zero play) for about 400 rounds before the ring broke.

The problem: The area right above the location i fitted my O-ring to seemed to have a lot more wear than the rest of the upper. Specifically, where the BCG rides (top and bottom). Of course, like any other WK, the cam pin grinds a small portion of the upper, not enough on my rifle to even care. The wear on my rifle is very small compared to others i have seen. (This shows Kodiak making improvements, well done Kodiak).

Anyways, i believe by raising the upper ever so slightly via an O-ring, the BCG does not have the perfect clearance it would have, had the upper been in its original position i.e. slightly lower (The height of the O-ring to be exact). Because of this, the bottom of my BCG, and right where the bottom of the BCG meets with the aluminum above the O-ring is ground down quite a bit. Theres also very minimal wear (finish scratches) on the inner-top of the receiver where the BCG rides, exclusively above the part where the O-ring is placed.

I decided not to replace the broken O-ring with a new one and just live with the slight wiggle. I imagine this will also make cycles more smooth because the bottom of the BCG wont be hitting the aluminum so hard (not that i had an issue with rough cycles, just an idea).

On a side note: I have had little to no problems with my rifle after 500 rounds. However, coincidentally or not, at the same time my O-ring broke, before i could remove the O-ring i had a problem depressing the take down 'button'. It was extremely stiff and would not move at all. This was post range day where i really tried to put the rifle through its paces, firing rapidly, getting it quite hot etc.

I have no proof to believe this is the sole cause, but i suspect the reason i couldn't press the recoil springs in was because the O-ring was holding the upper too high and made it so the plate that the recoil springs sit in became jammed in the receiver.
I have read somewhere of someone else having a problem with taking down the rifle because of a stuck plate, however i do not recall them giving much detail, they just blamed Kodiak.
The remedy was a tinsmith hammer lightly tapping the recoil spring plate until it was in far enough that i could separate the upper/lower.
Even after i separated the upper/lower, the plate remained jammed inside of the upper. I have photos of it stuck in there if anyone is interested. I got the plate out by tapping the back of it.

On a side-side note: After removing the O-ring, i have also noticed a reduction in the amount of brass residue inside the receiver. I am not sure why this is, i might be wrong about this seeing as i've only fired ~100 rounds since removing the O-ring.

My rifle has been running fine ever since. If anyone has any extra info, or corrections about my experience id appreciate the insight. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...

Anyone else notice issues while using an o-ring? I appreciate that it removes the wiggle, but now I'm hesitant to use it.
 
I haven't had a chance to shoot my WK but I tried to remove the flash hider so I can install my Spectre Hex brake. I heated the flash hider with a heat gun but could not remove it. I clamped the barrel in a vise with rubber jaws but the barrel kept slipping and the flash hider wouldn't budge. I wrapped the barrel with leather and used a pair of pliers to grip the barrel but still couldn't move the flash hider.
Unfortunately, I managed to F up my barrel (and add some scuffs on the hand guard). See pics here.
So now I'm still stuck with the stock flash hider but with a messed up barrel and scuffed guard.
WTF did they use to stick that flash hider? Why is it so damn hard to remove it? How do I remove it?
 
I don't think you have used the right tool. A "flat vise jaw" with either rubber or leather won't work. Usually a dedicated barrel vice block or a reaction rod is used. You can also clamp the receiver if neither is available - normally flash hidder should be torqued to no more than 20 ft.lb so using the receiver is no an issue.

JoeShmow said:
I haven't had a chance to shoot my WK but I tried to remove the flash hider so I can install my Spectre Hex brake. I heated the flash hider with a heat gun but could not remove it. I clamped the barrel in a vise with rubber jaws but the barrel kept slipping and the flash hider wouldn't budge. I wrapped the barrel with leather and used a pair of pliers to grip the barrel but still couldn't move the flash hider.
Unfortunately, I managed to F up my barrel (and add some scuffs on the hand guard). See pics here.
So now I'm still stuck with the stock flash hider but with a messed up barrel and scuffed guard.
WTF did they use to stick that flash hider? Why is it so damn hard to remove it? How do I remove it?
Click to expand...
 
JoeShmow said:
I haven't had a chance to shoot my WK but I tried to remove the flash hider so I can install my Spectre Hex brake. I heated the flash hider with a heat gun but could not remove it. I clamped the barrel in a vise with rubber jaws but the barrel kept slipping and the flash hider wouldn't budge. I wrapped the barrel with leather and used a pair of pliers to grip the barrel but still couldn't move the flash hider.
Unfortunately, I managed to F up my barrel (and add some scuffs on the hand guard). See pics here.
So now I'm still stuck with the stock flash hider but with a messed up barrel and scuffed guard.
WTF did they use to stick that flash hider? Why is it so damn hard to remove it? How do I remove it?
Click to expand...

Get the right tools if your going to do it yourself, or risk damaging things. You need a reaction rod, armourers wrench, vice would be handy, (google is your friend), The flash hider is bearing on a crush washer and requires a bit of force to rotate it to correct alignment to install and vice versa. Once the barrel is secured use a long box wrench or armourers wrench to rotate off. On the bright side a little scuff is minor, touch it up with a jiffy marker if you are worried.
 
Had the original and hated it.. At least you don't have to machine your own rails and optic mounts and cut it apart to add stock adapters. Also pin your own mags like I had to do. Also the hinge was risky it would snap off if you looked at it funny
 
OK. So I messed up my barrel. I replaced the flash hider on my AR with no problems. I don't know why it should be such a challenge on the WK.
Anyway, any suggestions on how to fix the damage I've done? I've managed to further F up my barrel's coating. Any suggestions on how to repair the coating?
What type of coating is it anyway?
 
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How did you f it up? You scratched it a little. Oh well. Live and learn. It seems like a nitrate finish but thats just a guess.

I think its time you had the help of a smith. He will be glad to show you how the pros do it.
 
I 3D printed some vise jaws and clamped the barrel tighter than a tiger. I finally managed to get that sucker off.
 
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