WK180 Gen 2 Broke Already

The placement of the trigger pins is critical... both in relation to each-other and in relation to where they are placed in the receiver.

I suspect that one possible issue is your trigger pins are .001"+ forward of where they should be.... maybe...

I do know that the same issue in a NEA AR caused the same result you are describing here....
 
Gen 1 carriers had the same heat treating problems. Did they really think surface anodizing is the same as proper heat treating?

Again. Anodizing or otherwise making aluminum "harder" doesn't fix the problem. The hammer should never come into contact with the aluminium, steel wins everytime. Where on your AR does the hammer contact anything aluminum? (Read: it doesn't)
 
You're saying you fired the rifle normally and essentially the receiver cracked between the trigger pocket and the mag well?
Back that camera up an inch or two man and post some better pics.
I gambled on the first run of the WK180C and it was a piece of f**king sh*t. Sent back twice for warranty that still never fixed the fact it wouldn't feed from any mag except the plastic ones specifically shipped with the gun. Shipping for a defective product was on my dime and not covered both times.
Trigger was 40 grit sandpaper.
Receiver got chewed up shredded from the cocking handle mulching it up.
Gas system was hard core over gassed. Trigger slap. It was smashing indents into the back of the receiver behind the guide rod plate from cycling harder than the flimsy thing was designed to take lol
FTF
FTE
Chamber extended past the inner receiver and rounds would jam under the barrel extension in the giant void under the chamber even with FMJ projectiles. Its great to see companies trying to bring products to market here in this sh*thole country for us I just wish they actually worked out bugs before prematurely ejaculating them out the door to make sales/profits off us all with products that are clearly not ready for sale.

Apologists will come out of the wood work shortly lol

Post some better pics and a description of what we're looking at here.
 
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Amazing how many people can't see what's going on in those pictures. Who knew there were so many blind people posting on CGN...
 
I just took my Gen 2 apart to look at what broke on yours. It looks like you have accidentally let the hammer drop with the lower receiver detached or let it drop with the bolt out of the receiver. The hammer stops on that surface when over extended without the bolt to stop it.
Any time working on a trigger group or function checking while apart you should catch the hammer fall with your other hand.
 
I just took my Gen 2 apart to look at what broke on yours. It looks like you have accidentally let the hammer drop with the lower receiver detached or let it drop with the bolt out of the receiver. The hammer stops on that surface when over extended without the bolt to stop it.
Any time working on a trigger group or function checking while apart you should catch the hammer fall with your other hand.

Yep…. 6061 aluminum is soft.
 
“I just took my Gen 2 apart to look at what broke on yours. It looks like you have accidentally let the hammer drop with the lower receiver detached or let it drop with the bolt out of the receiver. The hammer stops on that surface when over extended without the bolt to stop it.
Any time working on a trigger group or function checking while apart you should catch the hammer fall with your other hand.“

This...
 
That shouldn't happen after 1 or 2 hits and as stated it happened while I was shooting it.

I’m not playing the blame game here, just trying to help out. On my Gen 2 it’s impossible for the hammer to contact that surface while shooting the rifle. Maybe you have a tolerance issue, just seems like it would take a massive tolerance issue on my particular rifle to have that issue.
 
That 110% happens when dry firing the gun without a bolt in or losing control of the hammer with the receivers separated. Can happen on AR15's too but usually it's not so bad because the bolt catch sits in a pocket on the other side of the shelf. But I have seen them bend on a PSA lower after someone functions tested their trigger group without keeping the hammer under control with their thumb and hadn't yet installed the bolt catch.
 
At the end of the day, I just want a functional rifle. I have faith KD will fix the issue. It's taken longer than I like for a response but they are busy with production and I recognize that.
 
At the end of the day, I just want a functional rifle. I have faith KD will fix the issue. It's taken longer than I like for a response but they are busy with production and I recognize that.

Did you let the hammer fall either with the bolt out, or with the upper and lower otherwise separated?
 
I’m not playing the blame game here, just trying to help out. On my Gen 2 it’s impossible for the hammer to contact that surface while shooting the rifle. Maybe you have a tolerance issue, just seems like it would take a massive tolerance issue on my particular rifle to have that issue.

Wrong
I had a Timney AR impact trigger that would bring up in the wall, it wouldn’t make contact with the firing pin.
It was almost completely straight.
The ALG solved that problem.
The top part of the ALG hammer was way more pronounced than the Timney.
 
Wrong
I had a Timney AR impact trigger that would bring up in the wall, it wouldn’t make contact with the firing pin.
It was almost completely straight.
The ALG solved that problem.
The top part of the ALG hammer was way more pronounced than the Timney.

None of that has anything to do with what I said. My particular rifle, with my particular trigger group, and my particular bolt, which is completely stock like OP’s rifle, it is impossible for my hammer to hit the receiver while shooting the rifle. That is very much a true statement. I’m not saying it’s impossible on your rifle or anyone else’s. Like I said “tolerances”
 
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