WK180 shoots high than optic
- Thread starter Gabrile
- Start date
We need more detail, without meaning to be rude I'm struggling to understand fully what your issue is. What does "shoot higher than optic" mean?
If you're struggling to get your rifle to hit at or lower than your point of aim I would assume you have already:
0. Phoned the people who make the rifle and actually know how it works unlike internet strangers
1. Started with a 25m zero just to get on paper and get your windage correct then made your way outward in increments of 25m
2. Ensured that your barrel is not touching anything while shooting
3. Checked the crown of the barrel
4. Checked the strength of gravity at your range, try jumping but be careful not to jump to high!
5. Hit it a few times, it works with electronics and children so will probably work with a rifle
IzzyTheGreat
Regular
- Location
- SE Alberta
Have you tried zeroing at 50m? If you're using an Eotech (I'm assuming one of their holographic sights) with magnifier or Elcan odds are the highest magnificent you would have would be x3 for the EoTech and x4 for the Elcan (Using the DR x1-4 as an example). Most shooters will not be able to get a clear enough sight picture at that distance to know exactly where the reticle of your optic is when you break the trigger, and therefore you could be shooting "higher" because you are actually holding the optic reticle higher than your intended point of impact.
I always zero my MSR platforms at 50 meters (or yards, depending on the range), sometimes I will start at 25 to get on paper. The ballistic trajectory of most .223 and 5.56 loadings mean that if you zero at 50m you should have relatively the same point of impact at 200m. This is called a "battle zero" and it's generally how rifles are zeroed in the military. Maybe I'm misinterpreting what you mean by "can't get it to zero on 200" but I'm assuming you were referring to the distance you were trying to zero the rifle at.
I have a PA 2.5x prism optic on my WK-180 and previously had a Vortex Strikefire II red dot on it. I have never once felt the need for a riser on my rifle. Once I zeroed the optics for 50m I could hit CQB sized targets at 25, be right on target at 50, and ring the gong on the 100m range (it's a small ribbon gong) all day long. I also took it out to 300m with a 1/2 silhouette steel target on it, and was able to hit without much difficulty once I found the right holdover, this was when it still had a x1 red dot sight on it. I'm sure it'd be much easier holding over on my new sight with the magnification and ACSS reticle.
I know the quality control and consistency with Kodiak is seen as as an issue by some, I've had my issues with my WK-180 but accuracy is not one of them. It's already been mentioned but be wary of where you rest the gun while zeroing, if you rest it on the barrel (even in a rest or bag) that can greatly affect your point of impact.
Let us know if you can fix the issue,
Izzy
