Wolf SKS Spring kit?

The SkS Double Spring Cut Job

After removing the trigger group from the rifle, locate the latch stop pin near the front of the trigger group. This pin also serves as a group retention pin, sliding into recesses in the receiver to hold the trigger group in place. This pin must be driven out. One can start it out with a few taps of a brass hammer and then complete the driving out with an appropriately sized punch.

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Once the latch stop pin has been removed, the latch stop, the sear spring and the sear can be removed by sliding them out the front of the trigger group housing on the rails they ride on.

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Next, we need to remove the hammer from the trigger housing. Fortunately, this can be done without disassembling the rest of the trigger group. Merely, hold the hammer in a vice so that you can push the trigger group down against the weight of the hammer spring. The hammer must be in the decocked position before an attempt is made to remove it. The hammer hinges in two recesses, one on either side of the housing.

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Once the hammer is pushed past these recesses, it can be removed.

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We can now see the rails on which the sear rides.

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Since the sear is pushed down against the top portion of these two rails by the full weight of the hammer spring, the top portion of the rails must be polished to remove any burs and non-uniformities. We do this with a ceramic stone, emery cloth or jewerly file will do. Or if you have a nice dermil set you can use the buffer pads with polishing compund. The key is not to remove to much meterial but to buff it to a mirror finish.

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Next we polish (again with a ceramic stone emery cloth or jewerly file or also the dremil with the buffer pad and polishing compund) the two engagements surfaces between the sear and hammer. Here's a view of the engagement surface on the sear. I also make sure that ther is an ever so slight negitive engaugement to ensure that the hammer won't drop by accident.

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And here's a side view of the two engagement surfaces.

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Like with the stoning of any sear engagement surface, care must be taken to not introduce high spots by stoning the left and right sides non-uniformly. Don't remove any more material than is necessary to achieve a mirror smooth surface. The leading edge of the hammer surface can be rounded a little to spread the weight of the hammer weight over a larger radius.

Finally, I cut one loop off both the hammer and sear springs with a pair of wire snips.

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The edges should be ground flat against the coils of the springs.

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Reassemble and give it a go with the hammer. Tap it at the front wear the mag release lever is and also on both side and the rear of the trigger group. This will ensure you that there is no chance os slam fire. If there is you can add a little more negitive enguagement to the sear.
Please rember people less is best and that you can always remove more materail but it is a pain in the rear to add or find replacement parts.
 
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