Wood....or metal?

O

outoftowner

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Medicine Hat, AB
Ok so for my bench, I have come to a predicament with my father. We are good metalworkers, so he wants to make the reloading bench out of metal, but everyone else makes there bench out of wood, and to tell you the truth, were horrible at wood working compared to metal working. Is there anything wrong with using metal and painting it or putting a coating on the top? Or should I stick strictly to wood?
 
I'm sure there are lots of guys using steel benches, but wood gives a little and will be less likely to dent or scratch anything you drop on it. Pretty minor point though. I am a wood guy, but the local steel shop did a hell of a job on a 4x8 work table/cabinet for the shop recently. Very nice and solid.

Only thought is maybe a Steel Reloading Bench + Dropped Tools may = sparks? Maybe not the best with powder residue around? Slim chance and I really can't say for sure, just thinking out loud.
 
So, you're asking us if you should build yourself a nice metal bench, or a kind of homely wood bench. Stainless steel would be an awesome reloading bench material, clean up would be a breeze. Or you can be like everyone else, and build a wood one.
 
Myu bench is one of those cheapies from Can tire and it came with a press board top which I replaced with plywood, works well for me. FS
 
use 3/4 or 1" mdf for the top. beats any plywood by far (mostly due to density) its extremly rigid and can handle pretty much anything. i use it exclusivly in my shop. plus it is cheap and easy to work with. hell i bet you could cut it in a power sheer (so long as you have one that has 8ft blades)
 
Everyone else has already said it, but I'll agree further - metal frame, wood top. A good, solid, well-designed metal frame will support a HELL of a wood top too - so you can have a totally flex-free setup.

-M
 
I have a Kleton bench with a 2" thick laminated wood top. It is likely more than most people are willing to spend on a loading bench but very sturdy. I also have a 12"x18"x3" thick granite surface plate in it just for my acculab scale.
 
Static is the main issue for not having a metal bench. Even rubbing your hands against metal legs could cause a static charge. I'd go for a all wood bench. The floor of your reloading room should be wood or laminate also. NEVER EVER HAVE A CARPETED FLOOR.
 
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Here is what I have.
  • Steel frame, 2-1/2" square tube legs, 1-1/2" x 3" tube horizontal members (it is 8' wide with no centre support). The bottom of the legs have flat plates ground flush, so the tube legs wouldn't punch through the tile floor.

  • The top is 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF with the top sheet maple veneer. Solid maple trimmed around the outside. (It used to be part of a huge door, got it free)

  • The front of the bench overhangs by about 5 or 6" so that you can sit right up to it with your knees under, and gives you a place to bolt equipment, missing the steel frame

  • Height is 38" so you can either stand or sit on a stool or drafting chair.

  • Top is held to the frame with 4 large lag screws in predrilled holes in the top, and the tips of the lags bolts were ground off. Pieces of flat stock were welded in diagonally in the 4 corners of the frame, about an inch below the top. When the lag bolts are tightened, the flat stock acts as a bit of a "spring" to keep the top tight against the frame. All of this is more than sturdy enough.

  • There is a shelf below, also with the 1-1/2"x3" tubing, covered with one sheet of 3/4" plywood.

  • All the steel is painted satin black (not flat, Flecto paint from Home Depot) which hides slight imperfections perfectly and is a beautiful finish, and contrasts with the wood top. Looks like a piece of furniture.
Since we keep a lot of supplies on the lower shelf, plus the weight of the bench itself, total weight is in the 1,000 to 1,500lb range, and doesn't need to be fastened to a wall, and sure as h*ll doesn't flex. :evil:

For a top, (since you mentioned you weren't the greatest woodworkers) you can also get a beautiful, ready made solid beech/birch/oak tops from Ikea for a great price. Just lag bolt it on from underneath as described above.

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/60057852
 
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+1 for the solid wood top from Ikea. If there is no Ikea close by, talk to a woodworker. They can make you a solid maple/beech/pine/whatever you want top. Steel frame with a solid wood top would be my idea of a good looking, sturdy bench. Better than my ex Kitchen countertop with a plywood frame.... which is also very sturdy and works just fine, but isn't much to look at.
 
p210sig said:
Static is the main issue for not having a metal bench. Even rubbing your hands against metal legs could cause a static charge. I'd go for a all wood bench. The floor of your reloading room should be wood or laminate also. NEVER EVER HAVE A CARPETED FLOOR.
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Remember that thread a while ago about that guy that shot electricity through powder and it didn't go off? I think I'll be fine with a metal frame.

ffwd said:
+1 for the solid wood top from Ikea. If there is no Ikea close by, talk to a woodworker. They can make you a solid maple/beech/pine/whatever you want top. Steel frame with a solid wood top would be my idea of a good looking, sturdy bench. Better than my ex Kitchen countertop with a plywood frame.... which is also very sturdy and works just fine, but isn't much to look at.
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Were fine with making the counter-top, For shelves on the back we might just get some pre-made cabinets or something, but the countertop we won't have to worry about. We got an amazing plywood store here so I think we can get anything I need for the top.
 
My reloading bench is made with a sheet metal top c/w 2 pieces of 3/4” plywood underneath. The counter top is nice and solid. The only thing I don’t like on the metal top is it’s always cold or cool when reloading, except the metal top makes for a nice surface for cleaning when required...
 
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