wood refinishing...

pointandshoot

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hey all, not sure if this should go under gun smithing or not, but i was wondering if anyone had a good article on wood refinishing. i would like to go with a darker stain look, but i'm unsure on how to seal it. just use regular varnish or laquer...or just stain it and leave it bare? i'm fairly handy but i'm not a wood working pro...hints or tips would help a lot. thanks...btw its for a winchester 94...so if anyone has a suggestion on a stain colour that looks killer i'm all ears.
 
I found these two sites when I was looking:

h t t p://hunting.about.com/od/guns/a/aastockrefinish.htm

h t t p: //outdoorlife.com/article.jsp?ID=21009738&page=1&typeID=663&categoryID=0&adid=T663

(Might need some Triple "W" in there)
 
I use a very old style of finish called linspeed. It is a mix of boiled linseed oil, turps or paint thinner and some artist tint-the small squeeze tubes of colour oil paint in the artsy fartsy stores. Burnt Umber is my fave and does a great job on a nice piece of wood. Tough as nails and so easy to touch up scratches. Seals the wood and puts oils back into it so it doesnt dry out. Even paint stripper will only dull it a bit. Leaves a nice satin sheen on the wood. People always ask me about the finishes on my stocks and are blown away when they find out what it is. Also with a penetrating oil finish, the grain takes on a 3d look and jumps right out. Surface finishes sit on top of the wood and keep the light from getting to the grain so you can see it all. The best part is you simply cant screw it up-you can always just put more finish on it and it comes right back. Also called a rubbing varnish. You can add varathane or varnish to the mix to give it more body to set up faster. Great fun once you use it a bit.
 
great, thanks for the help! one more question tho...a lot of articles talk about using tru oil. does the wood need to be stained before using this product, or will the oil darken the wood? does anyone know where i could find some in the gvrd? bogie your method sounds very interesting...do you boil up everything yourself or is it something i can find on the shelf? do you have a favorite brand that you use for a penetrating oil finish? thanks again
 
I can't remember for sure if true oil darkens much, it may a tiny bit. If the wood is really light and you want it darker you will have to stain it first, otherwise just apply the true oil. I've used it a few times and never needed to stain first. Clean up the stock, easy off oven cleaner is a great way to remove old finishes, oil and grease. Spray it on, let it sit maybe 5 minutes then wipe it off, maybe do it twice. Use tap water to rinse it, make sure and remove all the oven cleaner and let it dry out. Sometimes dents in the stock can be lifted by placing a damp cloth over the dent and using a clothes iron to heat the cloth and blow steam into the stock, raising up the wood. Depending on the stock you may want to do some sanding, be careful not to remove very much wood or you can ruin wood to metal fit, also use a sanding block on flat areas to prevent "dishing". Once the stock is all ready for finish just put on some true oil with your hands, rubber gloves are handy. Smear on a thin coat and let dry, I usually put on 4-6 coats. If you get any runs you are using putting it on too thick, but you can remove runs with a little steel wool. I generally rub the stock down with steel wool between coats. If you want a flatter less glossy finish you can put the last coat on with steel wool. i did a 22 that way and was quite happy with the results.

You can go more in depth then I do there is methods for filling pores and whiskering the wood when sanding which probably give nicer finishes yet, but I'm not that knowledgeable yet.
 
The old "linspeed" finish uses off the shelf hardware store items that are inexpensive to buy and simple to prepare. Also dead simple to apply. I did my first stock when I was 16. Somebody liked it enough to steal it. I am a woodworker and build furniture. Finishing a nice piece of wood to perfection is often a difficult process if you do not have a spray booth so an easy to use finish is a godsend. A tough, easy to use finish is worth its weight in gold.
You can tint any oil finish but some oil finishes have more solids (what is left behind when the solvent evaporates). I use artist tint (oil paint) or sometimes different shades of oil finishes. This stuff all mixes together happily as they are all pretty much the same base(solvent/oil base). With a pentrating/oil finish you can tint each coat differently or none at all. You can use colours too if you wish. Basically what the old finishes are is "rubbing varnishes". The parts can be changed to suit application or mood. And they are pretty much impossible to mess up. Whats not to like? They just dont happen overnight is all. I put 15 coats of oil on my first stock but could have stopped at 4 and done the rest a year later. Doesnt matter. I can walk anybody interested through it.
 
I like Truoil, but use a stain first. As for sealing, Birchwood Casey used to include a sealer in their kits, but I don't believe they do any more. I think the Truoil must seal decently on its own.
 
great, thanks for the help! one more question tho...a lot of articles talk about using tru oil. does the wood need to be stained before using this product, or will the oil darken the wood? does anyone know where i could find some in the gvrd? bogie your method sounds very interesting...do you boil up everything yourself or is it something i can find on the shelf? do you have a favorite brand that you use for a penetrating oil finish? thanks again

Yes, you do need to apply stain first. Tru oil doesn't darken walnut much if any. Tru oil does "wet" walnut so the grain stands out a bit more, but no real darkening effect.

A water based wood stain is what I was advised to use and has worked well for me. Let the stain dry for at least a day before you start to put a finish over it. Test how the stain will look by testing it on your stock in an inconspicuous place - under the butt pad for instance.
 
great, thanks for the help! one more question tho...a lot of articles talk about using tru oil. does the wood need to be stained before using this product, or will the oil darken the wood? does anyone know where i could find some in the gvrd? bogie your method sounds very interesting...do you boil up everything yourself or is it something i can find on the shelf? do you have a favorite brand that you use for a penetrating oil finish? thanks again

Yes, you do need to apply stain first. Tru oil doesn't darken walnut much if any. Tru oil does "wet" walnut so the grain stands out a bit more, but no real darkening effect. You shouldn't need a sealer if you use truoil.

A water based wood stain is what I was advised to use and has worked well for me. Let the stain dry for at least a day before you start to put a finish over it. Test how the stain will look by testing it on your stock in an inconspicuous place - under the butt pad for instance.
 
I can walk anybody interested through it.

I would be very pleased if you were to do a short write up on this "linspeed" oil, as I am sure lots of others here would be too. Sounds like a very promising and reliable finish. Which products do you use, and find work the best? When using oil paint in the mix, does it simply tint the wood, and remain the grain essentially intact?
 
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