Wood stock small crack

in your place I'll try and fix that small crack and use epoxy and a small screw and nut called "dog bone" and enforce that area asap
you can find an example how to do it here (not a hot link)
h t t p s://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWcygawcLGc
 
It is a check in the wood caused by the stock machining and further drying... it does not require a complicated repair... it can be as simple as a squirt of crazy glue... and you don't need to squeeze it together.

If you do want to do something more, you should remove the hot glue bedding of the recoil lug and properly glass bed the action and float the barrel and fix this 'check'.. have it done by a professional.
 
in your place I'll try and fix that small crack and use epoxy and a small screw and nut called "dog bone" and enforce that area asap
you can find an example how to do it here (not a hot link)
h t t p s://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWcygawcLGc

That was an interesting video, and that dog bone technique is good to know. Thanks.
 
It is a check in the wood caused by the stock machining and further drying... it does not require a complicated repair... it can be as simple as a squirt of crazy glue... and you don't need to squeeze it together.

If you do want to do something more, you should remove the hot glue bedding of the recoil lug and properly glass bed the action and float the barrel and fix this 'check'.. have it done by a professional.

Would wood glue work for the "check" ?

How much does a action glass bedding and freefloating of the barrel job cost?

I think I might be able to do it myself if it's expansive to have it done.
 
Would wood glue work for the "check" ?

How much does a action glass bedding and freefloating of the barrel job cost?

I think I might be able to do it myself if it's expansive to have it done.

You could work wood glue into the 'check' and lightly clamp it... but it may pop apart with a cross bolt screw...

Glassing and floating usually $75 minimum ... it's important it is done correctly though.
 
The BSA commercial bolt action rifle stocks used to use a tapered wooden dowel, across that area of the stock. It was held in with a non waterproof glue, that eventually allowed the dowel to loosen up when the stock/dowel dried. When this happened, the stock would just about always crack in the same location shown in the OP's pics.

If I can find it, I glue the dowel back in place, with a good, clear waterproof, wood glue. Usually, in the process of doing so, enough glue gets into the crack to help keep it together. This makes for very little mess.

The wood dowel doesn't have to be tapered if you're inclined to fit one into your stock and can be finished off very easily and cleanly.

The next thing I do, to make the fix tougher and maybe clean up other issues with a dried out stock, is to make up a "staple" out of a coat hanger, drill a couple of holes in the right places for the pins and then clean out a channel for the cross bar. This is done just under the receiver ring flat, behind the recoil lug.

Once it's in place, I glass the staple in place and bed the receiver at the same time.

Kills two birds with one stone and may even help the rifle to be consistently more accurate.
 
Chop about 1/2 of the height of that little piece out, cut another piece of wood to fit (what you removed) so that the grain of the replacement piece runs perpendicular to the existing grain. Glue it all up with a high quality wood glue (I like Titebond III). File to fit when glue cures. That's all you need. Fitting a tiny "dogbone" in there may be more than a little tricky & you would be left with more epoxy than wood. IMO. If you are hell bent on that type of repair, look up a 'bowtie' joint .. woodworking videos.

Funny video, seen a few that he has done. His methods seem to work - he knows what he's doing, but once in a while there's an ... "errrr, I dunno" moment :)
Coulda cleaned up that but with a hand plane - swipe/swipe/swipe = done. not sure why he started with that gigantic block of walnut for the patch - just more work to remove material... start with what you need. strange - musta been a Sunday morning for him ;)
 
I fixed a couple, common thing for the Wincherster feather weigh stock to crack there.
Drill a 1/8 hole through the stock.
Next over the hole on each side make a 3/8 hole a 1/4" or less in depth. Foster bit works good for this.
Get a 3/32 stainless steel tig welding rod, actually I used a antenna from a 2 way truck radio.
Kinda sharpen the end of the rod a bit like a spade bit, the thread 3 to 4 inches of the rod with die.
Screw it through the stock with a drill. Trim off both sides. Plug the holes with dowel, trim and sand flush, stain or just use True oil on it.

Or you could just use a #4 or 5 stainless or brass wood screw, but where's the red neck in that.
 
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