Wood stove in an rv

Thanks for the helpful responses. I already bought the stove and fired it up yesterday. I didnt have the best wood to burn (elm) and it did smoke quite a bit. I will try some other wood types before I make up my mind as to whether or not to go through with it.

Elm is about the worst wood to burn, there’s no comparison between it and almost every other species.
 
Last edited:
Elm is about the worst wood to burn, there’s no comparison between it and almost every other species.
Have you considered putting the chimney through a side wall instead of the roof? It eliminates a lot of the worry of leaks and counter flashing. There’s thousands of trailer shacks on Sask lakes in the winters with wood stoves, crack a window and give’r.

I did kind of consider a side vent but I thought it might be an issue depending on wind. We would have to set the unit up with the chimney on the lee side or else the camper would be filled with smoke. It still is a consideration though. I do fully intend to run a co/smoke detector. I'm very careful around fires. After doing some research today I think my plan is to build an aluminum heat shield backed by 1/2" rok crete and have it spaced 1" off the wall. I will probably ceramic tile the floor of the rv under the stove. I'm still undecided on the chimney as I figure the 2" stack it comes with is a little small and light and I could probably get some 4" schedule 40 from the plumbers at work and make a good chimney out of that. As far as the flashing going through the roof, I figure that the high temp silicon ones from amazon should work well.
 
Another idea you can do is make a pull out for your wood stove, that’s what I did. I cut a 3’x5’ hole in the wall of my little camper, braced it back up and built the wood stove in a “pull out” box that you just slide out when you get to your hunting spot, it takes up no room once your set up. When your ready to leave you pull your chimney back out, slide it back inside and cover the hole with a piece of plywood. Get a section of insulated stove pipe to go thru the top of your pull out, I used tin for a heat shield and it worked great last fall for moose hunting. I was burning dry tamarack and never had any problems with the box itself getting overly hot.
 
OP

Is this wood stove you bought certified...??? Meaning does it have a certification label stuck on the back of it saying it has been lab tested for clearances to combustables. Usually Warnock and Hershey. The tag will give the stoves Maker, model # and clearances to combustibles etc.. If it has no certification label affixed to it the stove is be treated as an uncertified solid fuel burning appliance. Therefore it comes under section B365 of the Canadian Building code which there in gives the clearances to combustibles for safety.

Which are: Sides, Back and Front 48" Top of stove to ceiling 60" . A non combustible amber pad must be under the appliance which extends, 8" out each side and 18" out the front. It must be solid and any seams sealed or grouted. Bottom of the stove must be at least 7" from the amber pad. The flu pipe if single wall must be of 24 ga. material not have more that 180' of bend in it and 18" from the nearest combustible. The clearances can be reduced by 50% if using masonry shielding with proper air space for air circulation between the combustibles and shielding, or 60% if metal shielding is used. The flu pipe if not connected to a masonry chimney must be connected to a 650 rated factory built chimney that is installed as to manufacturers specs. I could continue on, and on and quote code reference and get more detailed, but I think you now have the general idea that to keep the installation "SAFE" so it does not cause a fire and destroy your camper or kill you and your buddies certain clearances must be adhered to. Yes you can install the stove in a hap hazard manner and probably get away with it for awhile. Key word here is "awhile". Every wonder why many old buildings never survived and burnt down. It is because we did not understand at the time proper clearances to combustibles and some thing called pyrolysis.
I was before retiring WETT certified and have inspected hundreds of wood burning appliances and did code compliance inspections for insurance companies and fire investigations when wood stoves and fireplaces were involved.

I would heartly agree with Grizzly and strongly suggest you reconsider your method of heating your hunting RV. Bottom line is would all like to hear of your future successful hunting adventures not of your fire misfortunes. Be safe my friend not sorry. Give a properly installed propane heating system some consideration.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom