Wood treatments
- Thread starter bizz
- Start date
What do you mean by "inert"? Wood is a material that looses and absorbs moisture from the surrounding air until a balance is achieved. Even the best finishes short of encasing it in epoxy or something similar are pourous and do not stop this process. Surface finishes just slow down the transfer rate.
There is a material called polyethyleneglycol that is used by wood turners to slow and limit the shrinking of green wood but I'm not sure this is what you want or not. But try googling for "PEG woodturning" and see if it seems like something you can use. However the PEG does not make it water proof.
If you're trying to turn the wood into a plastic then maybe a very thin epoxy that is then forced into the wood with a vacuum chamber would do the job. However this won't push it through the entire piece. Just the first 1/8 inch or so. The other way to produce wood that is close to being as stable as plastic or metal is to laminate up your own or buy it prelaminated. To be the most stable what you want to do is cross lay the plies and use a stable glue such as epoxy again. With thin laminations the epoxy can be trusted to soak through the entire thickness of the wood.
However none of these options will make the stock fire resistant let alone fire proof. If you're going to run through flaming buildings then put the stock inside your fire resistant suit.
There is a material called polyethyleneglycol that is used by wood turners to slow and limit the shrinking of green wood but I'm not sure this is what you want or not. But try googling for "PEG woodturning" and see if it seems like something you can use. However the PEG does not make it water proof.
If you're trying to turn the wood into a plastic then maybe a very thin epoxy that is then forced into the wood with a vacuum chamber would do the job. However this won't push it through the entire piece. Just the first 1/8 inch or so. The other way to produce wood that is close to being as stable as plastic or metal is to laminate up your own or buy it prelaminated. To be the most stable what you want to do is cross lay the plies and use a stable glue such as epoxy again. With thin laminations the epoxy can be trusted to soak through the entire thickness of the wood.
However none of these options will make the stock fire resistant let alone fire proof. If you're going to run through flaming buildings then put the stock inside your fire resistant suit.
Wood is already inert.
"...layer has to be a fungicide..." Any stock finish will do that. Bugs aren't interested in finished wood. There's no need for any chemical other than a regular finish.
Tung oil will waterproof wood. Properly applied, it soaks in about 1/4", preserves and seals wood. Keeps stains out too so any stain has to go on first.
Nothing I've ever heard of will fire proof wood though.
"...layer has to be a fungicide..." Any stock finish will do that. Bugs aren't interested in finished wood. There's no need for any chemical other than a regular finish.
Tung oil will waterproof wood. Properly applied, it soaks in about 1/4", preserves and seals wood. Keeps stains out too so any stain has to go on first.
Nothing I've ever heard of will fire proof wood though.
