Wooden stock pressing on barrel experiences?

y2k

y2k

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Super GunNutz
Rating - 100%
459   0   0
Location
Land of No Trees
I have a cz 550 in 300 win. Was not shooting well and when heated up went about 6 inches off average poi
Discovered when got home stock touching left end or forearm. Sanded it down and now piece of paper from last years calander ( only paper I had in shop) will pass under barrel till it hits lug. So I’ll see how it shoots next time out

Wondering what experiences anyone on here with similar wood pressing on barrel has had
 
Uneven forend pressure can definitely affect groups. POI moving 6 inches, at 100 yards I assume, most likely a barrel issue, IMHO.

Test and find out if free floating cures your issue.

Unfortunately, wood can be affected by moisture, and temperature. Did you seal the channel after you sanded out. A hunting rifle, one carried in the field in all kinds of weather, works best with about 5 pounds of forend pressure. That pressure should be even, with no side pressure. The barrel will keep the wood stable and the wood will help stabilize the barrel. A symbiotic relationship.

That being said, some of my rifles did shoot better free floated. But to work correctly, a free floated forend usually needs to be stabilized and stiffened with a longitudinal reinforcement bedded into the channel. A laminate stock is the most stable wooden rifle stock.

I had a 25-06 that would move at least 6 moa. The barrel was the issue, it would bend as it heated. Free floating or bedded, POI changed. Sold it with the caveat that it needed to be rebarreled.

I hope free floating fixes yours. You may have to bed the action to make the combo work. I'd just sell it and get another rifle, fine tune one that works well right out of the box.

Cardinal rule on buying rifles, most used rifles have some sort of issue, some new rifles have issues. The odds favor the new. Buying used from a reputable person can save you lots of grief.
 
Make sure you seal the freshly sanded wood so moisture can’t get in and affect wood again! There is two different approach here, you can have full contact or no contact, but not some contact, especially if it is in random spots!! Good luck!
 
Wood stocked rifles have had their actions glass bedded and the barrels floated as long as I can remember (more than 60 years) to correct point of impact and accuracy problems.

It is common to do this to a new rifle before even shooting it...
 
I have a full length stock rifle with hand guard - I noticed that the end of barrel coming out of front was no longer centered - was actually pressing on one side - I removed that stock - actually looked worse - as if the very front 4 inches or so had taken a bend to the left. I suspect that the barrel was resisting the wood - so once barrel removed, the wood moved more - so six months in a strong back clamp did nothing - as soon as pressure removed, the wood just bent again. So, will have to look at hot oil or similar to "bend it back" to straight. Not really certain there is enough wood up there to be scraping for clearance - the exterior nose cap still mounts to exterior surface of stock - so would get to look pretty "wonky" if I can not figure out how to "bend" that wood back to "straight". The rifle is an AIA - so alleged that the stock is teak wood or similar from Vietnam - so likely Manitoba is a lot drier than where it came from - just time, and the wood lost moisture, I think ...
 
In the past I have 'corrected' wandering wood by milling a slot down the middle of the channel almost through the bottom... effectively cutting grain of the stock... Then holding the wood 'straight' while a piece of U shaped (square bottomed l_l) aluminum was epoxied in place. Very similar to some Browning stocks... BBR's I think.
 
I had a Savage 300 Win Mag that would do that at 100 yards after 3 shots. I bedded the action and floated the barrel. It still did it. Had to replace the barrel to fix the problem.
 
guntech said:
In the past I have 'corrected' wandering wood by milling a slot down the middle of the channel almost through the bottom... effectively cutting grain of the stock... Then holding the wood 'straight' while a piece of U shaped (square bottomed l_l) aluminum was epoxied in place. Very similar to some Browning stocks... BBR's I think.
Click to expand...

I never thought to do that! Sounds very reasonable thing to do - with clamps, I can flex that forearm tip to "straight" - invent a jig of some sort to cut that slot while straight and then epoxy in a strong back channel piece!
 
guntech said:
Wood stocked rifles have had their actions glass bedded and the barrels floated as long as I can remember (more than 60 years) to correct point of impact and accuracy problems.

It is common to do this to a new rifle before even shooting it...
Click to expand...

You remember that some gun had a pressure point in their stock close to the fore end ?
Free floating is not always the solution…:) Glass bedding with a pressure point is a viable accuracy solutions specially on skinny barrel.
 
Janeau said:
You remember that some gun had a pressure point in their stock close to the fore end ?
Free floating is not always the solution…:) Glass bedding with a pressure point is a viable accuracy solutions specially on skinny barrel.
Click to expand...

The reason factories machine a pressure point in stocks is simply because it is easier to do and get it out of the factory shooting reasonably well. They are not worried about changes in point of impact in the future...

I have not encountered a hunting rifle that did not benefit from glass bedding the action properly and free floating the barrel... even the skinny ones. Experimented many times with pressure points and laminated stocks as well - back in the late 60's... pretty well gave up on the pressure point bedding in the 70's. Laminated stocks were more stable than just wood.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom