I recently acquired a new to me Rem 725 in 30-06. After cleaning it up it looks to be in really good shape so I want to put a scope on it and try it out. I am not new to reloading but new to 30-06 and don't have any 06' factory loads and really don't want to buy any. So, what is the best method to sight in and work up loads at the same time with the least rounds/effort/pain/etc. after bore sighting? I assume I would sight in with a couple extra starting loads but is this the best way to do it?
Working up a new load and sighting in a scope
- Thread starter Seagull
- Start date
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
Don't waste your reloads on sighting in.
Buy a box of factory ammo to sight in, then just start shooting your reloads.
The reloads won't be right to POA, but they should be on paper. As long as you are using the same Point Of Aim, you are just measuring groups, not looking to hit bullseyes.
Once you find the load you want to use, and are gonna focus on fine tuning, then worry about sighting in that specific load.
Hell I have gone months of load developement with the same rifle and scope without actually sighting in for any specific load.
As long as they are on paper and you can compare groups you are good to go.
Buy a box of factory ammo to sight in, then just start shooting your reloads.
The reloads won't be right to POA, but they should be on paper. As long as you are using the same Point Of Aim, you are just measuring groups, not looking to hit bullseyes.
Once you find the load you want to use, and are gonna focus on fine tuning, then worry about sighting in that specific load.
Hell I have gone months of load developement with the same rifle and scope without actually sighting in for any specific load.
As long as they are on paper and you can compare groups you are good to go.
358Rooster
CGN Regular
- Location
- Central Saskatchewan
Not unlike any other rifle caliber. Determine what your range of charge weights will be for your chosen powder by the parameters set out in a reloading manual (preferably several manuals). Pick one of those cahrge weights and load another 3 to 5 rds for sighters. If it's a 'new to you' rifle, you may want these ones to be near the bottom end of your charge range just in case it decides it wants to show you pressure signs early on.
Every time I mount a scope on a bolt rifle, I just sight through the barrel (like shooting with aperture sights) while the gun is securely on the bags and adjust the scope accordingly. I have a nice little jig setup that gets my windage almost spot on at 100 yards without firing a shot and usually only have to adjust a couple MOA wind and get my elevation on the board as well. Fire the first round, correct, fire the second round at the first hole (if you can see it), and voila! you have the first two rounds of your first group! This is of course, if your scope tracks correctly.
I won't buy factory - especially for sighting in. Why pay that kind of money for something you may even miss the dang target with? I think it's a bit better to miss the target with a 60 cent round than a $1.20 round, don't you? Just principle, I guess, really.
Rooster
Every time I mount a scope on a bolt rifle, I just sight through the barrel (like shooting with aperture sights) while the gun is securely on the bags and adjust the scope accordingly. I have a nice little jig setup that gets my windage almost spot on at 100 yards without firing a shot and usually only have to adjust a couple MOA wind and get my elevation on the board as well. Fire the first round, correct, fire the second round at the first hole (if you can see it), and voila! you have the first two rounds of your first group! This is of course, if your scope tracks correctly.
I won't buy factory - especially for sighting in. Why pay that kind of money for something you may even miss the dang target with? I think it's a bit better to miss the target with a 60 cent round than a $1.20 round, don't you? Just principle, I guess, really.
Rooster
