Working up loads, whats your procedure?

[Cocked&Locked]

I'm wondering how much seperation you do between weights and how many cartridges at each weight you drop?

Whats your procedure for working out an accurate load for your rifle?

Presently i uniform a batch of cases all from the same lot then charge in groups of 10. At the range i'll fire 3 3 round groups of each with one for a re shoot if i pull one. In small capacity cases like hornet i'll use a .2 gn seperation and work up to max, in larger stuff i will go .5 grn.

Am i loading more then i need to? What do you do differently?

 

[beretta boy]

On the "powder-search " aspect, virtually the same ...

I also segreagate "uniformed" cases from the same batch into 1.0 or 1.5 gr. weight differentials, and check loaded cartridges for case/bullet run-out.

Variance in bullet seating depth can be very productive searchwise, on the way to finding "the" load. Right on the lands or .005" or .010" back may not be nearly as good as .020" or even .050" back.

Bullet make, type & weight may also get an exploration, as might primer type.

For hunting rifles, I work with a good gunsmith to get a no creep / no overtravel braks-like-glass trigger pull, right at 3 lbs. A good barrel cleaning regimen ( I like Barnes CR-10) and proper bench shooting technique seems pre-requisite to repeatable results.

My approach, which works for me. Others may vary.

 

[firsttimer]

anyone else because i want to build a load for my 243 and am looking for ideas on how to go about it.

 

[matty86suk]

single rounds in .5gr steps to find signs of pressure, determine max load ie 45gr
reduce max charge by 10 percent ie 4.5gr

load 2 rounds in .2gr or .1gr intervals up to max load
shoot 3 sequenchal loads(6 rounds) per grouping
deterime accuracy nodes, then tweek

seems to work for me

 

[John Y Cannuck]

I use five for each pressure step.
six and groups of three for roughing in an accurate load. Much more for fine tuning, depending on rifle and cartridge.

On a side note C&L how the hell are ya?
The unbreakable challenger, is still unbreakable! Thanks again!

 

[Duck_Hunter]

I work up in .5 gr increments to max load. shoot 3 shot groups of each. Once I find something that looks good I'll load up 5 rounds of 1 group tounching lands, one .005" into, and one .010" jump and see what my gun likes.

 

[CyaN1de]

For the .243 I would start at published Min load and work up in .5grn increments up to (and even past) Max loads. Watch for flattened primers and/or extractor marks on the brass as you get to Max load and beyond. (I use 5 shot groups at 200m)

I would load the bullets at the lands unless you are using Berger VLD's then I usually start with .015 into the lands.

Shoot your groups with those, a couple may stand out as potential winners as you move through the powder variations. Load these couple up again and see if they are repeatable. If a couple look OK but could be better, then load another set of rounds over and below the OK groups by .2 or .3grns and try those. If the group/s tighten up then start playing with seating depth. If they are bug holing repeatably ....leave it alone!!!!

 

[manitou210]

working a load

All the mentioned ways are excellent ways of working up a load.
If your working a hunting load I like to look at powders that give the most velocity with the least pressures. I am a Nosler bullet fan as I find the ballistic Tips are very good quality bullet and use them to work a load and then use Accubonds or Partitions as a go to bullet,for hunting.
I find they usually print the same place I am sure there are some just as good bullets out there but Partitions have never let me down in any hunting application. Because of there construction I don't beleive they will be as consistant as a match bullet like Berger's Sierra Match kings or other match bullets. I have not had great success with Hornady's but some others at range do very well with them.
In order to get the best, #1 trigger must be crisp and light I use a Jewell and have a 2oz rem 40x trigger as I shoot Remingtons off rack & customs with Hart or other hand lapped barels. Always use the most power on scope the bigger the better, it tells you if your moving the fellows who say they shoot better groups at low power, is only a old wives story.
The brass prep is very important, do primer pockets inside and out and cull any brass with flashholes not centered,neck turn brass only neck turn new brass not once fired. I only neck size while working a load and Redding competition dies are very good dies.
I usually shoot 4 shots and work in 1/2gr and watch for pressure signs, extractor marks on brass, primers, and if any bolt pressure STop AND BACK off LOAD. I have had most success with bullets seated just very lightly kissing lands, and have found like other member mentioned with Berger VLDs more into lands, but this becomes tricky as you can blow primers and have high pressures really pay attention jaming hard into lands.
Never go to range in bad conditions gusting winds and try and work a load save your loads for a better day.
a lot of fellows get to the 1/2 " groups but to get to .250 & sub consitantly is another step and needs very good shooting habits,shoulder pressure,never force gun always have gun set perfectly in bag and front rest,I have seen some extreemly good groups shot with remple rest and the new Sinclair front bipod, powder measuring is very important if shooting long range.
I was shooting at 900 meters this spring and found out that 2/10s grain of powder made a verticale differance of 2 minutes with a .223 rem thats 20 " at 900 meters it sure puts you out of bull.
sorry for ranting on
manitou

 

[Boomer]

1) choose components based on the performance level I am looking for. If maximum velocity is what I am after, I choose the heaviest brass and heaviest bullets so that later on I do not inadvertently end up with an over load due to an out of spec bullet of casing. If maximum accuracy is the goal, I attempt to pick the most uniform brass and bullets.

2) make up 10 rounds starting at the low end of the published data, with 1 gr increments in powder charges. If the load is to be used in a hunting rifle, I make sure the OAL will allow the round to function through a magazine. If maximum accuracy is the goal, I work up the load with the bullet seated hard in the rifling.

3) shoot these loads across a chronograph paying attention to:
A) the actual velocity compared to the projected velocity in the manual(s)
B) a velocity plateau where I observe a dramatic drop in the velocity increase compared to previous rounds. The velocity plateau indicates maximum pressure, and the previous load would be my maximum working load in a hunting load.

4) Should accuracy be what I'm after, I will begin shooting groups to determine what powder charge produces the best accuracy, beginning with the maximum load and reducing loads from that point. Once the most accurate powder charge has been established, I will begin adjusting the seating depth to find the sweet spot.