WORN CPO's. whats a good gun grease? for sig p226...

grease for rails

I use a never seeze thread lub.
My Browning BDA (Sig) bought in 71 or 72 still has the coating on the rails.
The stuff is so slippery that when torquing the bolt it will go past the torque setting.
Any thing with Mollie in it should be good.
 
ya i was gonna say, i heard the norc sigs crack easier than the sig aluminum frames .. the norcs are very brittle from what i hear.

cambli ... no problems with the brian enos stuff ?
ive been reading up on that , i hears its good , didnt know they sent to canada, is this recently you had it brought up, im wondering with all the stupid restrictions from the USA, that if this would be a problem.
 
WolFF said:
cambli ... no problems with the brian enos stuff ?
ive been reading up on that , i hears its good , didnt know they sent to canada, is this recently you had it brought up, im wondering with all the stupid restrictions from the USA, that if this would be a problem.
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I had it shipped during the summer some time. I don't know with all the new restrictions if it is now prohibited.

I had to call them cause of a small error in the order and spoke to Brian for a bit. Very nice and eager to please.
 
WolFF said:
ya i was gonna say, i heard the norc sigs crack easier than the sig aluminum frames .. the norcs are very brittle from what i hear.

cambli ... no problems with the brian enos stuff ?
ive been reading up on that , i hears its good , didnt know they sent to canada, is this recently you had it brought up, im wondering with all the stupid restrictions from the USA, that if this would be a problem.
Click to expand...

Norinco has redesigned the flame of NP 22 and NP 34 to solve the problem. We have seen an article here somewhere and I couldn't find it.

Trigun
 
If the rails are aluminium as suggested in a post above then there may be another option based on what I read a week or so ago.

On this site, The High Road or Rimfire Central there was a post I read about a .22 pistol that may or may not have been a Sig Mosquito. The owner wore out one in around 20K rounds and was told that he over oiled it by at least one shop and some others on the forums. He got another one just because he was stubborn but this time listened to all the pundits that suggested powdered lube such as molydimium disulphide appllied dry with a little brush or other means. The new one is up around 10K rounds with no significant wear and he is sold on dry lubes for non steel slides.

Sorry for all the "definite maybes" but I've been jumping around reading all sorts of stuff in my quest for knowledge of this new sport and this particular one was a sideline so I didn't bother to note where I found it and just tucked the fact away in regards to plastic or alloy construction vs steel. So YMMV heavily but when I get my new plastic and aluminium .22 I'm planning on dry moly based lube for it along with close monitoring.
 
Found it. The post is at Rimfire Central....

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=247123

And reads...

You have to go back about three years ago for the history of this. My first P22 was worn out by 4 or 5 thousands rounds. I re-profiled a few things and got perhaps 8 thousand out of it and traded it on a Ruger. What a piece of junk I thought.

Then someone said I lubed it to death. Lubed it to death????? Since when did regular cleaning, grease and Hoppes #9 kill a pistol. The problem I was told was that a 22 get fired a lot, true, and that spent powder and carbon bits collect in the grease and oil, true, etc. And with a zinc slide and frame.......this combo will eat the soft metal up. Additionally there is ony 1/8" 0f frame rail and slide groove engaged when the slide is all the way to the rear but the hammer is still pressing the slide up with full force. This is where the removal of material from the rear of the breech came from in an attempt to stop that pressure/wear when so little material was engaged. It worked too. So I proposed buying a new pistol and firing it until it died. I had been very regularly cleaning the first one. WE discussed this and that way back with ideas for what to do to extend the life of the pistol.

A gunsmith gave me a powdered mixture of moly and teflon. I washed the new pistol out thoroughly, blew dry, sparyed on Remington Remoil with Teflon, blew dry. Rubbed on a touch of dry, powdered moly/teflon to wear points and started shooting. This after carefully measuring all critical components where wear could be expected. At 27,000 rounds there was exactly zero wear to the frame rails and slide grooves. Only cosmetic wear to the finish on the barrel sleeve and along the way I got all the other "mods " together simply to address issues my pistol and others were having. The pistol stays much cleaner now and wear is a thing of the past. Of course the rounded trigger bar ears will always dent the slide a bit but as long as the front edge isn't sharp the slide will last forever.

There is no use trying to apply much moly, it will not build up. It puts on a thin coat. I use a Q-Tip. Then I hand cycle to polish it all in before shooting. I don't think the zinc even touches now. Graphite collects moisture, so don't use it. KG is the only place I know you can order gun grade Moly. M1911
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pimlott said:
I use a never seeze thread lub.
My Browning BDA (Sig) bought in 71 or 72 still has the coating on the rails.
The stuff is so slippery that when torquing the bolt it will go past the torque setting.
Any thing with Mollie in it should be good.
Click to expand...
That's quite an accomplishment, seeing how Sig P220 didn't come out until 1975.
 
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