Is it much cheaper to reload 223 ammo?
I like to tinker, but how much am I going to need to invest to get started? I used to reload shotgun...but I can buy new shells significantly cheaper than I can reload. Any advice on getting started?
Thanks
That depends, are you talking about the cost of surplus ammo or are you talking about Lapua GB541, the difference in price point is noticeable. If all you want is ammo that goes bang, and is accurate enough for dynamic shooting drills, you can do that pretty cheaply with surplus ammo . . . when its available. On the other hand, handloading allows you to tailor your loads to your specific needs, such as low velocity small game and or pelt loads, game bullet loads suitable for big game, match ammo for precision target shooting, and frangible bullets for self defense loads. Essentially, you save the cost of the brass by handloading over the life of the brass case, since this is the only component that is reusable. If the brass case costs $1, after 10 reloads it cost 10 cents. If your typical load is propelled by a powder charge of 25 grs, you get 280 rounds per pound of powder, powder is between $35 and $50 a pound. Primers are about $5 or a little less per 100. Bullets vary greatly in cost, so ymmv.
If I was starting out and loading only for a small cartridge like the .223, I would take a hard look at the Lee C press. This nifty little press provides all the precision you could ask for in an affordable package of $52.50 (Higginson Powder). If you decide to get a heavier press for loading full sized cartridges, the C press remains useful for seating primers, neck expanding, and bullet seating, and having 2 presses set up to do alternating tasks speeds up the process. Oh, and if you drill a hole in your loading bench, and fasten a jar lid to the underside, the spent primers will fall right into the jar and can be disposed of at your leisure, where my RCBS press tends to bounce them all over the room.
You will need a priming tool, either a hand priming tool, a bench mounted priming tool, or an attachment for your loading press. Prices vary quite a bit, but lets say $35.
You need a set of dies for each different cartridge you intend to load for, and these tend to run about $50 for a standard die set, I prefer Redding and RCBS, but lots of folks use Lee dies and prefer them. A shell holder with probably run about $15.
You will want a scale and a powder measure. Some mechanical scales are quite affordable, but if you want digital, or a digital powder feeder, the cost is high about $622 (Reload X) compared to a mechanical scale for about $125. A Lee Safety Scale is an affordable option for $42 (Higginson) but the lack of magnetic damping which adds to the accuracy of the scale, makes it slow to use. I strongly recommend a set of scale check weights. These are inexpensive, $40ish and allow you to zero the scale to your charge weight rather than to zero. The advantage is that a balance beam scale's accuracy decreases the greater the weight you attempt to weigh above the zero weight, so zeroing to the charge weight is beneficial. The scale check weight set can also be used to check the repeatability of your scale. A powder measure is useful, particularly with ball powders that meter well, and again I prefer those made by Redding or RCBS, which run close to $300, but starting out you could easily get by with a set of Lee Spoons for $14 (Higginson). A powder funnel should run you about $5.
The only other accessory that you will really need is a a case trimmer, and again Lee comes through with their case trimmer that will cost under $20 for the cartridge specific trimmer, and $25 should get you a Wilson case mouth deburring tool.
A couple of MTM ammo boxes are useful whether you handload or use factory ammo, but the handloader can benefit from a couple of cartridge blocks to hold your brass while you go through the handloading steps. These can be had for free if you know a pistol shooter who uses factory ammo. The plastic trays that pistol ammo comes in is perfect for use as cartridge blocks 9mm size for .223, and .45 size for .308 size cartridges. Best of all they are free. You will need case lube to prevent your brass from getting stuck in the resizing die. I prefer Imperial Sizing Wax and Imperial Dry Neck Lube. the case necks are simply dipped in the dry neck lube, and a very, very thin smear of lube is applied to the center of the brass, well away from the neck . Too much lube will leave dents in the shoulder of the case, which is not dangerous, but looks bad, and is a novice error, that is easily avoided.
Unless you pockets are deep, your best bet is to begin with an affordable approach to handloading, then over time identify the bottle necks in your procedure, and upgrade for an increase the speed of you operation and the precision of you handloads, as your budget and interest allows.
