WW1 vs WW2 Luger barrel question...

[chofo]

Is there a difference in Luger barrels?

I am selling a 4.25" barel on EE and a guy just asked if it would fit his 1917 Erfurt...now, I bought this originally for my 1916 DWM so I ASSUMED it would fit his '17 ... but will it?

Could it be this barrel is for a "newer" WW2 Luger? Photo says it's for a "New Style Short Extension" whatever the f#$% that means.

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!!

 

[mooncoon]

I would expect the thread diameter and pitch to be the same. It is possible that there are small differences in thread indexing and in the distance from shoulder to breach end, between guns from different manufacturers. You would not know for sure until the barrel was screwed into place

cheers mooncoon

 

[highlander]

I don't recall there being any difference in the barrels, threads, etc.; as long as the calibers are the same they should fit.

 

[lugercollector]

Early Lugers had a different frame and barrel extension....post 1910 Lugers were all the same.....that barrel should fit any ww1 or ww2 era Luger......gunsmithing knowledge is required as they are tough to remove and install

 

[chofo]

My sincere thanks to you guys.

I am always in awe when I realize that such a wealth of experience and information exists right here, and at anyones fingertips!

BRAVO ZULU, CGN !!!

( I will add this info to my post on EE... thx again lads... )

 

[tiriaq]

I've rebarrelled a couple of Lugers.
lugercollector is correct - a Luger is more challenging to rebarrel than, say, a bolt action centerfire rifle.
The barrels are in tight. The upper receiver is light and delicate compared to a rifle receiver. The original barrel generally cannot be retained, being a prohibited device once the pistol is rebarrelled. and reclassified as restricted. What I have done is turn off the shoulder of the barrel, to relax the torque; this allows the barrel to be removed more easily. A wrench which fits the receiver must be used. Otherwise, the receiver can be damaged. The replacement barrel must be properly be torqued in and indexed. A barrel vice is required.

 

[mooncoon]

I have rebarreled 4 or 5 lugers and use a brass barrel wrench with fast drying Loktite inside, and a home made action wrench for the front of the slide. In my memory, most were very tight and the brass barrel wrench would slip without the Loktite. While on the subject, the slides are not completely interchangeable, nor is the trigger linkage.

cheers mooncoon

 

[chofo]

Reading all this just confirms my decision to relax, sit back and let a bona fide 'smith take care of the entire little Dog & Pony show.... what with the RCMP and de-regulating it after, yada, yada.

Not to mention twisting the dam frame, almost certainly, and ruining what most of us consider a 'Piece of Art'.

I'm a licenced, certified, red seal Millwright... but even WE have been known to employ ( yes, against our better judgement ) cheater bars and very often revert to the Ancient Rites when it suits us... " Crank dat godam vice down, Gilbert, an lemme get a piece of dat 2" pipe over dere... she'll come off, by da jaysus! "

Thanks again... at least I'm getting some interest on the barrel now...

 

[aakoksal]

Here is a resurrection, would you heat or cool the action/barrel for installing the new barrel? Cooling would be my first bet however I've read in another forum that they actually heat it...

 

[Blastattack]

Here is a resurrection, would you heat or cool the action/barrel for installing the new barrel? Cooling would be my first bet however I've read in another forum that they actually heat it...

You would not do either of the sort. Cut your threads properly and it will work just fine. The spec for a Luger is 18mm-20TPI British Standard Whitworth. Sandvik makes full form threading inserts that work wonders on a Luger rebarrel.