WW2 Reloading Mixes?

KodiakGhost

KodiakGhost

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
9   0   0
Location
Edmonton
Hello all,

Before I do something so foolish as to ruin a perfectly good WW2 sniper rifle with my reloads, I thought I'd post up the question: What would be the favorable mixture for a:

1) No4T

2) M1-D

3) M91-30

I'm more interested in accuracy, but the last thing I need is one of these babies becoming damaged due to a mis-load, so a safe load is required. As long as it's safe (assuming my mix and amount is correct), I'll be going for more accuracy.

I'm used to doing 9mm, 45ACP and .223Rem/5.56NATO, so I'm not clueless when it comes to this. I just prefer to make my own ammo so I know what's going through my rifle.

Cheers all.
 
Two things:
1. Get a couple of good reloading manuals.
Hornady is one for sure since they list service rifle loads for the 30'06.

2. Read about load ing for the M1 it is very sensetive to a specific bunr rate of propellents, also heed the warnings about bullet weights in the M1.

Aside from that I would think a powder like Varget, 4064, or 4895 would serve you quite well in all three rifles.
 
Think in terms of match grade ammo(match bullets aren't cheap though) for sniper rifles. Even though there was no special ammo for them during W.W. II.
My 1903A4 loves 168 grain match bullets with IMR4064 and regular large rifle primers. Drives tacks, if I do my part. For distances out to 600 yards use the 168's. Past 600, use 175 grain Matchkings with the same powder. Your M1D should shoot them both well when the ammo is meticulously loaded. No progressives and weigh every charge.
The M1 rifle was designed to use .30 M1 ammo with its 174.5 grain bullet, not the .30 M2's 152 grain bullets. Other than the barrel and sights, a 'D' isn't any different than a standard M1 rifle.
I don't load either of the others, but there are .311" match bullets available.
 
.303 brass is very suceptible to case separation after only a few reloads. I loaded for my (T) last year and found it easier to buy factory. Make sure you have a broken case extractor immediately available. IMR 4895 was the powder in .30-06 match ammunition.
 
Excellent info all. It's greatly appreciated. As much as buying factory ammo is cheap and easy, I feel that reloading may be a safer option for the rifle (ie higher pressures, faster burn rates).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom