There are many factors to determin value of your Luger. The first thing is do all the numbered parts match. Add a little more cash for matching magazines. Some collectors frown on refinished Lugers, so condition of the original finish is also a factor. A friend of mine recently bought a 1917 Artillary Luger at an auction for $2500. Hope this helps you out.
WWI 9mm parabellum ammo
- Thread starter Vancouvergunnut
- Start date
There are many factors to determin value of your Luger. The first thing is do all the numbered parts match. Add a little more cash for matching magazines. Some collectors frown on refinished Lugers, so condition of the original finish is also a factor. A friend of mine recently bought a 1917 Artillary Luger at an auction for $2500. Hope this helps you out.
RememberTheSomme
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I no ammo
expert so this is only food for thought, but if I knew I had 9mm ammo possibly loaded at spec for dirty SMG cyclic reliability,...I'd probably pass up on it for my Luger. Wouldn't want that knuckle joint planted between my eyes.
Is this DA SMG ammo is anything like Brit 2Z ammo, meant to ensure a heavy breech bolt in a L2A3 returns fully to sear on semi, or even auto, in a heavily fouled gun, so as not to have a runaway? This stuff pounded HiPowers quite hard I understand from persons in the know.
I'd say keep it as a collectable, or sell it as so. Lot's of nice cheap bulk 9mmPara in 115 gr FMJ out there. Some say the Luger needs heavier ball rounds to cycle properly,......I don't know, only ever experiencced them firing 9mmNATO, and they work with this!
expert so this is only food for thought, but if I knew I had 9mm ammo possibly loaded at spec for dirty SMG cyclic reliability,...I'd probably pass up on it for my Luger. Wouldn't want that knuckle joint planted between my eyes.Is this DA SMG ammo is anything like Brit 2Z ammo, meant to ensure a heavy breech bolt in a L2A3 returns fully to sear on semi, or even auto, in a heavily fouled gun, so as not to have a runaway? This stuff pounded HiPowers quite hard I understand from persons in the know.
I'd say keep it as a collectable, or sell it as so. Lot's of nice cheap bulk 9mmPara in 115 gr FMJ out there. Some say the Luger needs heavier ball rounds to cycle properly,......I don't know, only ever experiencced them firing 9mmNATO, and they work with this!
Wow, 2500 is quite a bit. didn't know they fetched that much.
I know for a fact all the parts are matching. My great grandfather picked this gun up during WWI as he was a british artillery operator. It has only passed through his hands and threw my grandfathers hands, and now into mine. Nothing has been altered on it.
As for the finish, it does look a little worn, however it is original. It is complete with the leather holster as well as the buttstock and cleaning rod. The leather holster has a few imperfections, i believe one strap has broken off. Other than that its in pretty good shape.
From what I can tell the gun cycles fine. the action opens and closes without a hitch.
It only has one mag, which is matching with the gun.
Before your great grandfather got it, it may have been rebuilt. You need to see that all parts with a serial number have matching numbers. This makes them valuable.
Ah I see. I will check when I get it.
Which parts in particular? magazine, frame, barrel? Any more?
If the buttstock is matched to the Luger you may possibly add another $1000 to the price of the Luger, depending on condition. if not matched maybe $250. The holster if authentic could be worth another and I'm guessing here $300 to $500.
I would probably not shoot your luger. If you break any of those 95 year old parts you will have lost half of the value.
the numbered parts are
under barrel - full serial number plus letter suffix
left side reciever - full serial number less letter suffix
side plate - outside will have last two numbers of the serial number
side plate - inside will have first part of the serial number
all the rest of the parts will only have the last two digits of the serial number
takedown lever
trigger
sear bar
safety bar
safety lever
rear toggle link
front toggle link
extractor
breach block
firing pin
hold open latch
both grips
the numbered parts are
under barrel - full serial number plus letter suffix
left side reciever - full serial number less letter suffix
side plate - outside will have last two numbers of the serial number
side plate - inside will have first part of the serial number
all the rest of the parts will only have the last two digits of the serial number
takedown lever
trigger
sear bar
safety bar
safety lever
rear toggle link
front toggle link
extractor
breach block
firing pin
hold open latch
both grips
The Germans were very meticulous. They serialized EVERYTHING!
I've heard and seen (On TV) that some late production Luger's had very little serialized stamping. Apparently they didn't have enough time because the demand was extremely overwhelming.
mudgunner49
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
European ammo has been traditionally loaded to much higher pressures than N American. I've shot a ton of IVI thru Lugers, Walther P38's and a Radom with absolutely no ill effect. I had one Luger that wouldn't function properly on Winchester or Federal and the only thing that seemed to dothe trick was Remington +P...
blake
i can remember when dominion had 2 different loadings for 9mm -one for everyone else , and one FOR LUGER PISTOL ONLY- there was only about 200 fps difference in the m/v and the bullet was the same 115 fmj we've all known for years; nonetheless, there must have been a reason for it, just the same as a hot load would take the top end off a m-96 mauser broomhandle
RememberTheSomme
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Thanks T-star, my line of thinking on the Luger as well.
