WWI SMLE Wood Colour Matching.

Thunderstreak

Thunderstreak

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Super GunNutz
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I have a No1 Mk3* with mostly original wood. The original wood is very dark. I have an upper hand guard that has most likely been replaced and is much lighter. Any suggestions on how to darken it to match? What did they originally use to treat the wood on these rifles?
Thanks and cheers!
 
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It's my understanding that all LE were finished with Linseed Oil (boiled? Not certain?) which is known to oxidize and darken with time. I bought a reproduction SMLE stock and re-did a rifle almost 3 years ago and even in that short time it is darker than on day one
 
OP - is probable that you are looking at original wood soaked in linseed oil, that has been oxidizing for 70 to 140 years? I have some WWI P17 stocks here that are nearly black - I suspect is about what they were exposed to over very long time? Based on suggestion from an acquaintance, I mixed about 50% MinWax Red Mahogany stain with linseed oil - applied that to a lighter coloured hand guard - repeated applications got it much closer colour to the original stock - which was likely made for a USA P17 during WWI, but was re-used in a WWII refurbishment - but I do not know how that will go as the years go by - I am expecting the original stock to continue to darken from exposure to air - I do not know if that stained piece will "keep up" or not.

I had an acquaintance from Quebec - his Dad worked to repair oak pews in some very old churches - the carvings in some cases went rotten or were damaged - the Dad was able to replicate the carvings - but from "fresh" wood - was almost an "art" involved to stain new wood to look same as 250 year old stuff - colour, texture, finishes, centuries of use, etc.

Likely even starts with what kind of wood that the pieces are made from - not sure someone is going to make a Birch replacement piece match up to a Black Walnut original. I do not know what kinds of woods were used to make stocks for No.1 Lee Enfield - would not be surprising if various species used at one time or another. I think most rifle stocks had been made from multiple types of wood at different times - was once a concern about "does it fit / work" versus "does it match for looks".
 
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OP, go to a local store or Amazon, or better yet if you have a friend that does leather work and get some DARK BROWN and some BLACK leather dye and mix them 2 parts dark brown to 1 part black. Leather dye soaks into the wood much better than Linseed Oil and dirt to give you a deep, dark color.

Start with one heavy coat and let dry, appx one hour.

If it isn't dark enough, apply another heavy coat.

If it isn't dark enough yet, add some more black to the mix and add another heavy coat.

This stuff goes a long way but it's not cheap.

After a couple of days to completely dry, use some "0" steel wool and lightly rub down the finish as the leather dye will slightly feather the wood.

Then add a coat of linseed oil or tung oil (shiny) to suit the rest of the stock parts.
 
Potashminer said:
OP - is probable that you are looking at original wood soaked in linseed oil, that has been oxidizing for 70 to 140 years? I have some WWI P17 stocks here that are nearly black - I suspect is about what they were exposed to over very long time? Based on suggestion from an acquaintance, I mixed about 50% MinWax Red Mahogany stain with linseed oil - applied that to a lighter coloured hand guard - repeated applications got it much closer colour to the original stock - which was likely made for a USA P17 during WWI, but was re-used in a WWII refurbishment - but I do not know how that will go as the years go by - I am expecting the original stock to continue to darken from exposure to air - I do not know if that stained piece will "keep up" or not.

I had an acquaintance from Quebec - his Dad worked to repair oak pews in some very old churches - the carvings in some cases went rotten or were damaged - the Dad was able to replicate the carvings - but from "fresh" wood - was almost an "art" involved to stain new wood to look same as 250 year old stuff - colour, texture, finishes, centuries of use, etc.

Likely even starts with what kind of wood that the pieces are made from - not sure someone is going to make a Birch replacement piece match up to a Black Walnut original. I do not know what kinds of woods were used to make stocks for No.1 Lee Enfield - would not be surprising if various species used at one time or another. I think most rifle stocks had been made from multiple types of wood at different times - was once a concern about "does it fit / work" versus "does it match for looks".
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Hi, thanks for the tip. I tired this and found that it is very difficult to let the dye stay on the woods, they tend to drip to the bottom. - Any suggestion?
 
I do not recall having that problem - as I recall, the wood soaked up a lot of the "juice" and I just kept slobbering it on there - I think the handguard was set on a piece of wax paper and just let it do whatever. It has been some years, and I only played at that the one time.
 
get a liter of acetone ........in a well ventilated area use #3 steel wool as a scrubing tool use gloves wash the wood ,,,,rub down with white rag......repeat....untill he rags stop getting coloured with the oils the acetone is pulling up and out of the wood,,,,repeat repeat ,,,,,you will be over joyed at what you find under the oils..........been doing this for years,,seal wood when done with 1 coat of true oil rubbed in with clean rag....don
 
coyoteshooter said:
get a liter of acetone ........in a well ventilated area use #3 steel wool as a scrubing tool use gloves wash the wood ,,,,rub down with white rag......repeat....untill he rags stop getting coloured with the oils the acetone is pulling up and out of the wood,,,,repeat repeat ,,,,,you will be over joyed at what you find under the oils..........been doing this for years,,seal wood when done with 1 coat of true oil rubbed in with clean rag....don
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Thanks!
 
Potashminer said:
I do not recall having that problem - as I recall, the wood soaked up a lot of the "juice" and I just kept slobbering it on there - I think the handguard was set on a piece of wax paper and just let it do whatever. It has been some years, and I only played at that the one time.
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Will try this, thank you!
 
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