XCR and Loctite: What parts are we talking about?

greg11

greg11

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Could someone post a diagram showing which parts typically need a drop of loctite? Also, once loctited, is the gun solid as a rock?

Just wondering.

Perhaps the loctite issue is a thing of the past. Sorry if that is the case...
 
I've put about 300 rounds through mine since I bought it on saturday, and the only thing that's even started to come loose was the brass deflector, everything else is rock solid!
 
um...really, its not that many locations...its not like its got 100 screws holding it together...if you have the fast stock i would locktite the little stock lock up adjusting screw, mine came loose a few times..extractor bolts should be checked, small screw on ambi safty, stock adjustment screws and attactment screw. all the hardware on mine were properly looked after at the factory. i wouldnt go riping a new rifle apart..just inspect, clean and keep an eye on the parts during break in. do NOT lock tite the barrle bolt...just make sure its properly torqued
 
greg11 said:
Could someone post a diagram showing which parts typically need a drop of loctite? Also, once loctited, is the gun solid as a rock?

Just wondering.

Perhaps the loctite issue is a thing of the past. Sorry if that is the case...
Click to expand...

Nothing on my XCR has come loose so far. First day out I put probably put 400 rounds downrange. Everything comes pre-loctited from the factory nowadays so if you buy new you shouldn't have issues.

Now cue witty comment from blaxsun ;)
 
Hundreds of rounds down my XCR without issue. The Loctite thing is just something the haters dont let die. Its like says FORD's stand for Fix Or Repair Daily.. people just repeat dumb #### for years.
 
I've cranked 1000s of rounds in my rifle and only had to retighten the gas block ?!?!!?
It needed tightening after 400 rounds (exactly as written in the manual).

More seriously, the word "Loctite" is printed approximatively 10-20 in the user manual ;)
My guess is that the early XCR-L really needed some extra Loctite but that it's not the case anymore.

My serial number is 7### so my rifle is a "mature" production.

Alex
 
jessekf said:
Hundreds of rounds down my XCR without issue. The Loctite thing is just something the haters dont let die. Its like says FORD's stand for Fix Or Repair Daily.. people just repeat dumb s**t for years.
Click to expand...

Bulls**t, it's not just "haters". Anything held together by threaded fasteners should have some method of keeping them in. Doesn't matter if it's safety wire, cotter pins, lock washers or Loc-tite.

I've got 1200-ish rounds through my XCR that I bought a couple of months ago. I Loc-tited everything prior to taking it to the range. Except the stock bolt, I missed that, and it was loose within 300 rounds.

It's been perfect since then.
 
Ambi safety on mine fell off fortunately onto range floor. Luckily noticed it before it got lose or damage. Drop of loctite fix it, no other issues.

Blaxsun must be on AV, no cheap shots yet, been almost 1.5 hrs since thread started.
 
Making fun of the XCR for needing Loc-tite is the same as making fun of the AR for needing staking.

Both designs require additional locking on fasteners, beyond torquing them to spec.
 
You should apply lock-tite on the following components.

robinson_arms_xcr_field_stripped.gif
 
The cap on the gas block came loose after about 100rnds and I just tightened it back up. Didn't even use locktite and it's still fine.
 
I had the ejector come loose on my early XCR-L and the MI front sight on the XCR-M so far... I had sights come loose on other guns as well when I did not do a proper job of tightening them! (mostly when first mounting stuff on guns to try out locations)... Loctite is great on screws that do not need to be unscrewed often... keeps moisture out of the threads as well...
 
Please, no more loctite threads.

For most things that go "Boom" or "Bang" and are mass produced, loctite IMO is required. I always use it on things that I don't ever want to shoot lose, such as back-up sights/sights, grips, stock bolts, etc.)

Using loctite should not be seen as a sign of a bad part or poor quality.

For instance, this past week I put 75 slugs through my shotgun... the stock came loose (no loctite), It's a Fabarm. Does it suck? Is it terrible quality? No. Perhaps it wasn't torqued properly at the factory. Either way, I did put some loctite on the stock bolt and I don't expect that bolt to ever shoot loose again.

Bad quality or craftmanship to me are revealed in poorly made parts, ill-fitting parts, visible tooling/machining or worse, hammer marks. Seeing a drop of loctite on a thread is definitely not an indicator of crappy or cheap IMO.

Jeeze, I believe all high-end 1911's all have red loctite on the trigger-stop set screws (from the factory). Are they all crap too?

In the world of racing, let's say motorcycle racing, there is something called "safety wiring" that is done regardless of make. Why would they do that? Is it because every motorcycle make in the world is of poor quality and out of spec? I dunno... I have a hunch that in addition to keeping pieces together in a crash, perhaps it's been discovered that vibration and heat/cooling cycles might actually, cause bolts to "possibly" loosen over time? Anyone disagree with that?

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images

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lockwire.jpg
 
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Kampfhamster said:
WTF? Why would one buy a rifle which one has to loctite it so it doesn't fall apart?
Click to expand...

There isn't many high quality items made these days that don't use a dab of this great product. Everything from the brake caliper mounting bolts on a Lamborghini murcielago to the u-joint cap bolts on a $10million dump truck in a Pitt mine. We used to use lock washers that kind of helped delay the loss of a bolt if it came loose, Or cotter pins that would rot away or seize in the hole, or nylock nuts that had should be replaced each time it's assembled, or crush nuts that damage the bolt threads every application or removal. Now we use locktite, because it works great and doesn't damage a thing.
 
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