XCR L Keymod Cleaning after firing corrosive ammunition

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I have been running corrosive ammunition in my 858 and SKS for quite awhile now. I clean by pouring boiling water down the barrel and gas port. I have had no problems with this method.

I now have an XCR L Keymod in 76.2x39 and wish to continue running corrosive through it as well.

So far I have been removing the barrel and cleaning it in a similar method. The problem is that I think my zero will be affected every time I remove and reinstall the barrel.

Tonight I tried cleaning it without removing the barrel. I poured boiling water down the chamber and into the gas piston chamber. The gas valve was removed first.
This method is a little more work and I don't think as effective.

What do you think?

On another note, does anyone have any problems running Canada Ammo's non corrosive Norinco through these guns? My Romanian surplus runs like a top on gas setting 2 but the non corrosive stuff barely works on 4. My gas block was loose but that has been corrected and it still seems under gassed using Norc non corrosive.
 
Don't worry about it, the surplus ammo will be more than capable of compensating for the shift and still maintain a solid 2 MOA groupLaugh2

I have run all them through my XCR rifle and pistol, Czech, Norinco, Romanian, Russian, surplus, new factory, steel jacket and soft point you name it I have shot it with no problems on setting 3 and 4.

I picked some Gunzilla from OSTS a couple of years ago and I haven't bother with running my barrel under the hot water tap since.
 
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I does affect zero. I remove the barrel to clean mine and have no signs of problems from corrosive ammo (aside from a little rust inside the gas setting plug - must have missed it once). My XCR actually shoots quite accurately with Czech surplus. Mine fires fine on the lowest gas setting.
 
I take my barrel off once a year.

I use wet patches through the gas tube/gas block and barrel. Then clean as normal. Zero issues and no zero shift.
 
I don't remove the barrel for routine cleaning, but do for a thorough cleaning every 2000 rounds or so. I've had to re-zero every time the barrel has been off.

I use hot water like everyone else and never had a problem. The spot to watch is the gap between the muzzle and the inside of the brake. It can be hard to chase all the water out, causing slight surface rust inside. Removing the brake is easy enough, and I've used the same crush washer since day one. The brake still indexes within a couple degrees.
 
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