Yet Another 858 Dragunov

[gun_mike]

Thread Protector

Thank you for fixing my pictures again.
Originally before deciding to convert my 858 to a Dragunov, I was going to just add a break and maybe a red dot. So I decided to make a muzzle break. I turned down the wrench flat on the thread protector and machined a corresponding bore in a muzzle break that I had made earlier. I thought about welding the protector directly to the muzzle break, but I was worried about it warping and throwing the threaded section out of line from the bore on the muzzle break. So instead of welding, I press fit the protector into the muzzle break and silver soldered it. This worked well for one mag. Then I heard a strange report when I fired my gun, and noticed the muzzle break was no where to be found. I unloaded the gun and inspected it for any damage and it was okay. Later on, the guy shooting beside me found the break 25 meters away laying in the sand.
I tried to get away from having to buy a special tap, or turning threads in the muzzle break. And I thought this would be just as strong. That is and was the last time I'll do a short cut when it comes to firearms.

Here is a picture of the break and the thread protector.

finally figured this picture thing out!

Perhaps if I had tacked the thread protector in place with the welder, then it would have stayed on. I believe the fit between the protector and the muzzle break was to tight and prevented the solder from flowing in between the two.

mike

 

[Satain]

LOL!!!
You were at poco when that happend!?!
I was sitting right beside you when it shot off.
Also you know that they already make those muzzle brakes. So there is no need to recreate it see;

 

[gun_mike]

LOL!!!
You were at poco when that happend!?!
I was sitting right beside you when it shot off.
Also you know that they already make those muzzle brakes. So there is no need to recreate it see;

haha yes I was at poco, that was pretty scary thing to have happened.
What magnification is your POSP scope?
I've ordered a 6x scope from eastwave.

mike

 

[Satain]

I just have the cheapy 4x one & for shooting up to 200 meter's 4x is all you realy need. 6x would be nice but the cost of the extra glass length didn't realy exite me to much.

 

[gun_mike]

all finised minus the scope

I've finally finished the furniture on the gun.
The stock is sprayed 6 times with polyurethane. 6 hours between each coat (sanded in between)
the hand guards are made from maple, stained two coats of Minwax Gunstock oil based stain. Sprayed 6 times with polyurethane.
The color is a pretty close match. All I have to do now, is mount the scope once it comes in the mail.

mike

 

[Satain]

Any way we could get a close up pic of that flash hidder?

 

[gun_mike]

Any way we could get a close up pic of that flash hidder?

here ya go

mike

 

[Curtton]

nice job .

 

[gun_mike]

Scope arrived today

Christmas came early for me this year. My POSP 6x42D scope arrived this morning. It came straight from the factory in Belarus. I was surprised how quickly it came. 13 days from when I ordered to when it showed up at my door. The rail was slightly different than the one they pictured on their website, but this one looks more repeatable. I screwed the rail to my side mount with 4 #8-32 countersunk screws. The scope is very clear, and the illuminated reticle is pretty neat. I'm very pleased with it. I will be going to the range this Sunday to sight it in. I'll post range results in a few days.
Here are some pictures.

mike

 

[gun_mike]

nice job .

Thank you. I put a lot of time and effort into it.

mike

 

[Spcamno]

Fabulous job Mike!

Will you consider start making the stock and the metal as a kit and sell them?

If so I will be very interested in buying from you!

 

[Grizz Axxemann]

how far off center is the scope?

 

[O'mega]

This may be some "stupid" questions, but I'm not good as you for gunsmithing

I just received my scope and rail too and my mount is the one you received.

1. Did you reshape the left top side of the rail to mount it a little more foward on the frame?

2. How did you screw the rail? Drill and tap before?
If yes, what bits size and tap size did you use?

3. It looks like for the 3rd screw "left to right" you had to grinded the rail to make it fit. I'm I wrong? Did you do for all the screws?

Some people did say that the rail would be more "solid" with a metal bracket between the frame and the rail. I'm curious about seeing your accuracy results and if the gun stays on "zero".

Let us know!

By the way, Really Nice job on this CZ!
You gotta be pround of it!

Thanks

 

[Deltasilver]

That's neat. You get two thumbs up for not building another color by numbers tacticool CZ. That furniture looks freakin' awesome.

Looking forward to that range report =D

 

[5440fight]

Sweeet. Well done! One of the best jobs I've seen for a dragunov copy.

 

[gun_mike]

Fabulous job Mike!

Will you consider start making the stock and the metal as a kit and sell them?

If so I will be very interested in buying from you!

I may consider making the metal, however the stock was very labour intensive, and required a lot of fitting. there is alot of material to remove from the grip section and it was difficult to make it fit my hand nicely. That being said the stock doesn't require a lot of special equipment to modify. Any one with a few basic tools and a cordless drill would easily be able to make it work. As for the scope mount, I've seen that design floating around alot on this forum, therefore it's not my design to sell. The flash hider is a different story. I may even try converting a few FN FAL F/H's and sell them.

mike

 

[gun_mike]

how far off center is the scope?

I looks like the scope is about 3/4" to 1" off center. This is good for ejecting cases, however it will pose a problem at further ranges than my zero. The windage adjustment on the scope, can zero'd and has values about and below that zero. It may be a simple as moving a a few clicks for 200, and a few more for 300. I will post results from the range on how this works out.

mike

 

[gun_mike]

Mounting the Rail

This may be some "stupid" questions, but I'm not good as you for gunsmithing

I just received my scope and rail too and my mount is the one you received.

1. Did you reshape the left top side of the rail to mount it a little more foward on the frame?

2. How did you screw the rail? Drill and tap before?
If yes, what bits size and tap size did you use?

3. It looks like for the 3rd screw "left to right" you had to grinded the rail to make it fit. I'm I wrong? Did you do for all the screws?

Some people did say that the rail would be more "solid" with a metal bracket between the frame and the rail. I'm curious about seeing your accuracy results and if the gun stays on "zero".

Let us know!

By the way, Really Nice job on this CZ!
You gotta be pround of it!

Thanks

Yes I filed down the rail a little bit, so it would match up with my mount. I made sure it wouldn't effect the rigidity of the clamping mechanism. I had to put the rail a little further forward than I anticipated to get the proper eye relief.

I drilled and taped the mount and rail for #8 countersunk machine screws with 32TPI pitch (common size). I used a #29 drill bit, this is hard to find unless you can get a drill/tap combo. Some hardware stores sell it. If u cannot find #29 drill then u can use a 9/64" drill bit.
The tap I used a an 8-32 taper tap (easy to break these little taps, so be careful). I bought a 5/16" countersink to seat the screw heads low enough to clear the little locating pin on the scope. I C-clamped the rail with the scope on it to my gun and marked where I got the proper relief. I then drilled the rail with #29 drill in 4 places where it It would be easy to counter sink.
I drilled from the back side. Then filed the back side so it would sit flat on my side mount. I lined the rail up with the mark on the mount and made sure the rail was sitting parallel to the mount. I then C-clamped one side and drilled the other. I would drill one hole, then tap it and countersink it. then drill the opposite side, tap and countersink. This way you get two screws to hold it in place while you drill, tap, and countersink the two middle holes.
The counter sink is 5/16" diameter at the large end, this gives just enough to seat the screw heads all the way down, with out removing excess material on the rail. You don't to enlarge the holes in the rail as the counter sink will pass down into it.

On the third hole from the left on my rail, I tried to countersink with a 3/4 countersink until I realized how much it was going to take away from the rail. It does kind of look ground, however its just a mistake on my part

Take your time and double check your measurements, and it will work flawlessly. If you have anymore questions PM me.

When I say rail, I mean the rail that you bought to attach the scope to your gun.
When I say mount, I mean the material on the gun where you will attach the rail that you will put your scope on.

#29 drill, 8-32 tap, 5/16" countersink, and #8 screw

the 5/16" countersink just clears the inside of the rail

Third hole from the left

mike

 

[gun_mike]

Range Report

I took the 858 to the range again this weekend. After Shooting it for the first time a few weeks ago, I decided to beef up the side mount for the scope. I replaced the 3/16" thick mild steel with a piece of 1/4" thick 4140. I noticed a big difference in accuracy. With the 3/16" piece, accuracy was about par with iron sights. 3-4" groups @ 100m. With the 1/4" thick piece, I was constantly getting groups of 2" @ 100m. I shot the gun to sight in @ 50m and most of the bullets were touching.
I used Czech milsurp corrosive for most of the day, however I did try some Sellier and Bellot. I noticed with the SB, that the primers were mushrooming, and I even had a blown out primer. I bought a set of dies and a C-frame press, and ill start reloading them once I source out the components.
Near the end of the range session yesterday, I noticed a problem with my side mount. It looks like the weld would not penetrate into the 4140 steel. It may have hardened and fractured due to the shock of firing. I'm thinking that if i have annealed the mount before putting on my gun, it may have stayed put!. I have an idea to fix the mount, ill post pics when i'm finished.

mike

 

[Tyler]

Very nice!

Do you find that the off-set scope messes with the handling much?

Also, remember that groups are measured centre to centre, so you can take about .3 inches off of each measurement. I'd toss the flyer too and take the best 4.

Next stop... match barrel.