Winchester Model 70 Extreme weather SS in .270 with a Zeiss 4.5X14 with the rapid z-800. Shooting Sierra game king 130's with 60 grains of H4831. I leave the scope on 10.75 power and the hash marks all work out further than I would ever shoot game. I went a bit heavy on the scope because currently I canot justify a dedicated range rifle and a hunting rifle. I love this setup! Fun and fast to shoot all different ranges. All I keep in mind when hunting is to keep it on either 4.5 power in the thick stuff or 10.75 in the open.
Your Hunting Scope Set Up?
- Thread starter triplepete
- Start date
I have found the term MPBR (Maximum Point Blank Range) to be very useful. It is the effective distance of a bullet to stay within a 2" stretch of the aiming point (that is either 2" above aim point down to 2" below aim point). What's nice about MPBR is that it takes out hold-over adjustments when aiming in a hunting situation.
For the 30-06 using the MPBR, you can expect to be good out to just under 300 yards (depending on bullet weight and velocity). Now, if you are looking for pin point accuracy or reaching out to distances that MOST of us really shouldn't be hunting at- well then, you may have a need for specialized reticles and mildots. Of course, the extreme ranges demand the use of a range finder and lots of practice time.
My 30-30 with 2.75x2omm scope is deadly within 200 yards. Beyond that, I'd better start wiggling through the grass...
For the 30-06 using the MPBR, you can expect to be good out to just under 300 yards (depending on bullet weight and velocity). Now, if you are looking for pin point accuracy or reaching out to distances that MOST of us really shouldn't be hunting at- well then, you may have a need for specialized reticles and mildots. Of course, the extreme ranges demand the use of a range finder and lots of practice time.
My 30-30 with 2.75x2omm scope is deadly within 200 yards. Beyond that, I'd better start wiggling through the grass...
To BDC or not to BDC?
What caliber and scope set ups do you have on your primary hunting gun? What is the max range you would shoot for game? What type of scope are you using? Bullet Drop Compensator ? What is your Zero?
Just bought my first hunting rifle and scope. Browning X-Bolt 30-06. Bushnell Elite 3-9 x 40 "DOA" (BDC). I have yet to shoot it and sight it in but I am debating on the Zero. I am leaning towards 200 yds zero only because on my scope to use BDC it must be in 9x. Considering I won't attempt a harvest over 200 yds.... I don't think I wanna be at full power under 200....
Please, discuss.
If you would read your scope manual than to use your DOA reticle to the fullest with 30-06 you need to use 150 gr bullet and your zero must be 100 y.
Your zero will be 100 y on every power using main cross.
To use DOA reticle points of aim correctly you need to set power to 9.
With 30-06 150 gr at 3000 FPS of Muzzle Velocity and BC .42 like Barnes TTSX you will be 2.93" low on 200 y.
For hunting up to 200 y your Christmas Tree scope reticle is useless.
I would return scope, if you can and get duplex reticle.
I have 3 30-06 Sako's (primary hunting rifles for me and two sons) and all have Zeiss Conquest 3-9x40 duplex reticle.
Zeroed at 275 y for 3.08" high at 100. We use Leica and Swarovski rangefinder's and above mentioned bullets.
Longest kill 423y, head shot on MD doe by my younger son I think lucky, he says he was going for head.
Get rangefinder...you will be better hunter from the start.
Good luck
Andrew
A VXII 2x7 with regular duplex will be fine for your needs. Just set zero for 200yds and shoot. They are perfect for 95% of all hunting done in NA. Small, light, dependable with good quality, click adjustments, great warranty.
If you must, get the same with a LR reticle and start shooting longer ranges.
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You have a gun that violates all the laws of physics. A trajectory like that is pure magic.
NoBark
I have a CZ 550 LUX .270win with a Burris Fullfield 2-7x35mm. I only use .130gr Hornady SP Interlock since I only hunt Black Tails at the moment. I originaly had it sighted only at 25yards since it will hit 3" high at both 100 and 200 and will almost be dead on at 300. Almost by like a 1/4 of an inch. I quickly realized that i've never shot a deer over 150 yards away so its now sighted in at 50 yards. It hits 0 at 50, 1/2" low at 100, pretty much 0 at 150, and 2" low at 200 yards.
NoBark is right 130 gr in 270 will do exactly what he is saying.
Andrew
I have a CZ 550 LUX .270win with a Burris Fullfield 2-7x35mm. I only use .130gr Hornady SP Interlock since I only hunt Black Tails at the moment. I originaly had it sighted only at 25yards since it will hit 3" high at both 100 and 200 and will almost be dead on at 300. Almost by like a 1/4 of an inch. I quickly realized that i've never shot a deer over 150 yards away so its now sighted in at 50 yards. It hits 0 at 50, 1/2" low at 100, pretty much 0 at 150, and 2" low at 200 yards.
NoBark is right 130 gr in 270 will do exactly what he is saying.
Andrew
gunrunner8
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, B.C.
That's nothing compared to "the magic JFK bullet" doing turns, twists and zig-zags landing in a limusine in pristine condition....
bearkilr
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nowhere, ......just past the middle
You should see what a 140 gr will do. I doesn't start climbing til after 400 yards, it's like a freakin' tomahawk missile.
Most hunting shots do not need to be beyond 300m. Lots of hype in the media and forums on long range shots.
My go-to rifle for the past 30 years had a fixed 6X Duplex most of its life. Most hunting shots were between 25m and 250m. Several 400+ shots in there as well. Never really needed more magnification or long range reticles.
My current primary has a Z5 3.5-18X with the BRX reticle. The lowest reticle bar is calculated to be 711m and I feel quite confident with this rifle and scope combo to shoot at that range. Since building this rig, it has accounted for 2 bucks and a doe, all were taken at ranges under 100m. It's nice to have in the event I must take a long shot, but I don't really expect to need it.
Match the rifle and scope to your hunting needs. A 3-10X40 is a nice choice for any type of hunting.
My go-to rifle for the past 30 years had a fixed 6X Duplex most of its life. Most hunting shots were between 25m and 250m. Several 400+ shots in there as well. Never really needed more magnification or long range reticles.
My current primary has a Z5 3.5-18X with the BRX reticle. The lowest reticle bar is calculated to be 711m and I feel quite confident with this rifle and scope combo to shoot at that range. Since building this rig, it has accounted for 2 bucks and a doe, all were taken at ranges under 100m. It's nice to have in the event I must take a long shot, but I don't really expect to need it.
Match the rifle and scope to your hunting needs. A 3-10X40 is a nice choice for any type of hunting.
For long range
Weatherby - 300 Wby w Leupold VX 3L 4.5-14x50 Boone & Crockett zero at 200 yards
Tikka Sporter - 308 w 8-32x50 Sightron LRMOA zero at 100 yards
For regular
Tikka - 270 WSM 3-9x40 Z3 Swarovski BRX zero at 100 yards
Benelli R1 - 30-06 Elite 6500 1.25-8x32 zero at 100 yards (my favorite so far)
I have a 3-9x40 Zeiss Conquest Duplex reticle in need of a rifle - thinking of a Sako - just missed really sweet deal on one ... sigh(
In Ontario where I hunt I get very few shots over 100 yards but going to Wyoming this fall for some long distance Elk & Antelope hunting
Weatherby - 300 Wby w Leupold VX 3L 4.5-14x50 Boone & Crockett zero at 200 yards
Tikka Sporter - 308 w 8-32x50 Sightron LRMOA zero at 100 yards
For regular
Tikka - 270 WSM 3-9x40 Z3 Swarovski BRX zero at 100 yards
Benelli R1 - 30-06 Elite 6500 1.25-8x32 zero at 100 yards (my favorite so far)
I have a 3-9x40 Zeiss Conquest Duplex reticle in need of a rifle - thinking of a Sako - just missed really sweet deal on one ... sigh
(In Ontario where I hunt I get very few shots over 100 yards but going to Wyoming this fall for some long distance Elk & Antelope hunting
I meant 1/2" high at 100. I was reverse thinking since the compensation is aiming 1/2" low to hit dead center.
Dude, I can make it totally just violate the laws of anything. I can make the bullet reach 200yards, turn around, and come back to hit a target that’s behind me. Get this, If you wanted to shoot a moving target, any normal person would aim ahead to compensate. Well, I can aim right at a moving target and still actually hit the part I’m aiming at since not only does the bullet go straight to its targets, it also flies diagonally for the constant changing degree of angle when I want it to.
A good choice with the .30-06 and the X-Bolt. The 3 - 9 is a good starting choice. The gadgetry with a DOA is something you say you will probably not use and that reticle is worth about 3 boxes of shells.
Since our range is set up at 200 m. (220 yards) and 300 yards most of my rifles start with a 220 zero, and then a ballistic program comes into play.
When some are sighted in at 300 yards for the 300 Club, the ballistic program comes into play again to determine 110 and 220 impacts.
Sighting in at 100 or 200 is nice but learning your own capabilities at 300, 400, 500 and even 600 is an education onto itself.
Sighting in at 200 yards will give an effective dead on hold from zero to 225. A rangefinder is an asset your DOA reticle may never equal and your accomplishments will be greatly enhanced.
Since our range is set up at 200 m. (220 yards) and 300 yards most of my rifles start with a 220 zero, and then a ballistic program comes into play.
When some are sighted in at 300 yards for the 300 Club, the ballistic program comes into play again to determine 110 and 220 impacts.
Sighting in at 100 or 200 is nice but learning your own capabilities at 300, 400, 500 and even 600 is an education onto itself.
Sighting in at 200 yards will give an effective dead on hold from zero to 225. A rangefinder is an asset your DOA reticle may never equal and your accomplishments will be greatly enhanced.
- Location
- regina, sk
I have the Savage 30-06 and the elite 3200 series scope. Basically the same setup as yours. I found that I sight in at 3" high at 100 yrds. It hits pretty dead on at about 250. I do my minor adjustments for what I feel after that.
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
100 yards - dead on
200 yards - zero- dead on
300 yards - on back bone
400 yards - one chest width above deers vitals
500 yards 2 chest widths above deers vitals
Of course this won't work on old 30-30's but when you compare bullets paths of the majority of today's modern rounds this will work, it has for me.
That being said, like others have stated most shots are gonna be dead on shots within most hunting/shooting distances.
I have been starting to use mil-dots in the last few years for my longer range playing, seems to work alright for me.
200 yards - zero- dead on
300 yards - on back bone
400 yards - one chest width above deers vitals
500 yards 2 chest widths above deers vitals
Of course this won't work on old 30-30's but when you compare bullets paths of the majority of today's modern rounds this will work, it has for me.
That being said, like others have stated most shots are gonna be dead on shots within most hunting/shooting distances.
I have been starting to use mil-dots in the last few years for my longer range playing, seems to work alright for me.
I have been doing some serious shooting with my Zeiss R-800 4.5X14X44 and love the setup. I will include as much info about my setup so that it can actually be of some use to some of you out there. It is as follows. Scope mounted in Leupold 1 piece base/rings. FN Model 70 in .270 win with a 22" fluted barrel. Shooting 130 grain sierra game kings with 60 grains of H4831 and CCI-BR2 primers out of win brass. I have settled on this combination for this gun and it gives me these results at 345 m....
All shooting done at 10.5 X magnification
100 Meters = 2" high
200 Meters = Zero'd on main crosshair
300 Meters = 3 hash
400 Meters = 4 hash
500 Meters = 5 hash
600 Meters = 6.25-6.5 hash
700 Meters = 8 hash
800 Meters = have not tried exactly 800M yet
900 Meters = the exact half way point in the thick bottom post of the reticle
All shooting done at 10.5 X magnification
100 Meters = 2" high
200 Meters = Zero'd on main crosshair
300 Meters = 3 hash
400 Meters = 4 hash
500 Meters = 5 hash
600 Meters = 6.25-6.5 hash
700 Meters = 8 hash
800 Meters = have not tried exactly 800M yet
900 Meters = the exact half way point in the thick bottom post of the reticle
I agree 100%. One thing people need to keep in mind with the rapid Z system is that since the reticle is in the 2nd focal plane the magnification of the scope needs to be played around with a little bit to taylor the hash marks to their particular loads. So depending on the bullet drop a wide range of magnification can be nice to play with. Also full zoom does not hurt when trying to see what you can group even at 100 meters.
RememberTheSomme
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Here's a quicky way to have a decent chance at a first round hit out to where you can accurately shoot.
This is my own idea gleaned from years of digesting ballistics charts. Yes I am a bored person.
1.Know your velocity and B.C of you bullet. Manufacturer chart for bullet BC and a chrony for the speed.
2. Establish a trajectory for your particular load, inputting the above data along with all other blanks in a good ballistcis calculator like the one on BigGameInfo site. Make sure you know your scope height above bore measurement and add it in.
3. Based on the bullet strike height at 100 yards for a 200 yard zero that you will zero for as closely as possible of the bench, now all you need is to remember the drop at 300yards.
Why the drop at 300 yards only?
From zero to 250 it don't matter hold dead on, at 300 with say a 9" drop now we can fall off a deer size vital zone.
Here's the rule of thumb to remember for most any center-fire scoped high velocity rifle with a scope height of 1.5".
take the 300 yard drop, triple it for 400, and then double that for 500.
It's that simple. check it out against any rifle drop zeroed at 200 yards.
Example. My pet .270 load from years past was a 130gr SBT@3100fps form a M70Fwt.
The calculator tells me my zero for 200 will be 1.4" high at 100. Okay I have that zero.
The calculator tells me I will drop -6.4 at 300, -18.4 at 400, and -37.9 at 500.
6.4X3= 19.2 very close to 18.4 right.
18.4X2=36.8 very close in real world shooting to 37.9
So zero at 200, know the drop at 3oo, X3 for drop at 400, then times 2 for the drop at 500.
This is my own idea gleaned from years of digesting ballistics charts. Yes I am a bored person.
1.Know your velocity and B.C of you bullet. Manufacturer chart for bullet BC and a chrony for the speed.
2. Establish a trajectory for your particular load, inputting the above data along with all other blanks in a good ballistcis calculator like the one on BigGameInfo site. Make sure you know your scope height above bore measurement and add it in.
3. Based on the bullet strike height at 100 yards for a 200 yard zero that you will zero for as closely as possible of the bench, now all you need is to remember the drop at 300yards.
Why the drop at 300 yards only?
From zero to 250 it don't matter hold dead on, at 300 with say a 9" drop now we can fall off a deer size vital zone.
Here's the rule of thumb to remember for most any center-fire scoped high velocity rifle with a scope height of 1.5".
take the 300 yard drop, triple it for 400, and then double that for 500.
It's that simple. check it out against any rifle drop zeroed at 200 yards.
Example. My pet .270 load from years past was a 130gr SBT@3100fps form a M70Fwt.
The calculator tells me my zero for 200 will be 1.4" high at 100. Okay I have that zero.
The calculator tells me I will drop -6.4 at 300, -18.4 at 400, and -37.9 at 500.
6.4X3= 19.2 very close to 18.4 right.
18.4X2=36.8 very close in real world shooting to 37.9
So zero at 200, know the drop at 3oo, X3 for drop at 400, then times 2 for the drop at 500.
