your input(savage package upgrade)

kyjelly44

kyjelly44

Regular
Rating - 100%
54   0   0
Location
victoria bc
well i got my hands on a savage package rifle(Model 111FCXP3).it was a used rifle,that needed about 8hrs of cleaning(he spray boomed the whole rifle).
specs
30-06 @ 22" tube
detachable mag
non accutrigger
syn stock.

things i have done already
clean the hell out of it.
leupold std 1pc base, and rings.
leupold 3-9x40.


i cant find to much on how to wrok this trigger.thinking i might replace it...
and the stock that i want to replace,but i cant find one for a long action with detachable mag...
anyone that has one of these rifle, what can i expect out of it?
experience and advice on this model would be great
 
You will probably not find a replacement stock for the side button detachable mag, if that's what you need. There's a plastic one, probably no better than the original, made by Ramline or Butler Creek at one time (is or was listed in SIR / Cabellas). What you have to do is get a standard stock and modify / inlet it for the side release. The mag is retained entirely by the metal box on the bottom of the receiver, the only thing the stock has to do is house the hole for the button.

Triggers, your best trigger will be an aftermarket, such as Sharp Shooter Supply or other quality make. Fairly easy to install. If you want to do it for cheap, you can get it lighter by adjustment, and also by replacing the wire spring with one of a lighter gauge (use hobby wire from an RC airplane shop). I did a SSS trigger on my 300WM 111FCXP3 with a laminate stock from boyds, and on my Savage 10MLII with standard trigger, I just replaced the spring with one I made myself from lighter wire. If you do it by adjustment or wire change, make sure you test it to make sure its resistant to accidental discharge and that the safety still works properly. You can get a lighter trigger that is safe more easily with an aftermarket replacement trigger. However you may get results you like through adjustment or spring replacement.
 
I have the same rifle and same problem. I really love this gun though and for the price you can't go wrong. You can just pillar and bed the stock you have there is a guy that did it to a stevens with a thread just recently with all the picks. It looks very good. Just search the gunsmithing forum. I have seem some different triggers for the savages/stevens from rifle basix. Check them out. The level 1 is 100 bucks shipped I think. There is also alot of tricks to lighten up the trigger. Replacing the little spring wire with a piece of #4 piano wire, and several other simple things. I personally don't think the triger is that bad, and have stuck with it. Good luck, and nice pick up.
 
If 3lbs is ok with you, tuning the factory trigger will work.

If you want lighter, I can offer Timney triggers that can go down to 1.5lbs. Some report less (????)

Bed the action properly, open the barrel channel and/or stiffen the forend, work up some quality loads and enjoy a great shooting rifle. When you want to have a tack driver, I can offer you quality barrels from Shilen and McGowen.

If looking for help doing some tuning work on the Savage, let me know...
Jerry
 
I would'nt do it again!

I bought the package (savage 300wsm) with scope/rings/sling and the plastic stock. I found that I could'nt keep the scope (a cheap Simmons) from slipping in the rings, the stock was too flexible and the sling was a hunk of nylon web.
What I do like about the package though...it was so cheap that it made a great start to my custom build. What I have left is the barrel/receiver and accutrigger. Bought and finished a Microfit Wildcat stock, free floated and bedded, installed new rings and a Monarch scope with BDC, Bipod and a quality sling. It's become a great shooter and is now my go to rifle! What started as a great deal ($600 complete) is now about $1700 NOT including my time in building it.
If I did it again (and likely will) I will start with the base Savage, and build from there.
 
I've got a Savage 110 Package in .30-06, and I love it. It's a basic rifle, and my first one, but I'm thoroughly satisfied with it. IIRC, it's about eight years old, but was used minimally (as a target rifle) before I got it. I paid $550 for it, including a case and 50 rounds. To do eventually: Bed the action, free-float the barrel, and replace the scope (it came with a Fitco 3-9x). The trigger pull isn't bad, although it could be lightened up just a tiny bit. I've got other projects I want to spend money on though, so other than a scope I probably won't put much more money into this.
 
kyjelly44 said:
well i got my hands on a savage package rifle(Model 111FCXP3).it was a used rifle,that needed about 8hrs of cleaning(he spray boomed the whole rifle).
specs
30-06 @ 22" tube
detachable mag
non accutrigger
syn stock.

things i have done already
clean the hell out of it.
leupold std 1pc base, and rings.
leupold 3-9x40.


i cant find to much on how to wrok this trigger.thinking i might replace it...
and the stock that i want to replace,but i cant find one for a long action with detachable mag...
anyone that has one of these rifle, what can i expect out of it?
experience and advice on this model would be great
Click to expand...

All you should do to this trigger is adjust it. DO NOT adjust below 3 lbs. It is simple mechanics, if you are considerably less than 3 lbs then the sear engagement angles must be incorrect and therefore unsafe, The accutrigger can go lower because it is made with a negative sear engagement angle and is unsafe to use without the blade.

Clean the sear and trigger with lighter fluid to remove the lube that is there.
Apply nothing else except the lighter fluid, it is the only lube needed.
Dry fire at least 50 times, this will help mate in the sear and trigger surfaces, BUT it also rounds off the nice sharp edges. Deburring on a magnified level is the goal not wearing it out.
Make sure you grease your bolt head lugs first to prevent galling.

If you can, I would replace the trigger tension wire with another wire spring that is .035" - .040".
There must be tension on this wire at all times, the rifle will be unsafe otherwise.
Once you have adjusted the trigger weight screw, test it by firmly working the bolt and safety many times. Again I stress this, there must be tension on this wire at all times to ensure the trigger will catch the sear.

The rear most screw at the rear of the trigger is to set the safety. The screw just in front of that is the overtravel screw. Screw this in until it hits the safety. #### the rifle and screw this out until the sear can be released with a trigger pull. Turn out an additional 1/2 turn.

The safety screw should lightly rub on the safety when applied. I lube mine and keep them a little tight to ensure they work. If you look closely above the trigger you will see an adjustment screw on the safety itself. This screw pushes against the action and forces the top of the safety, where you place your thumb, down onto the action and the front of the safety down into the pin in the trigger housing, this eliminates any vertical play. #### the rifle and apply the safety. Screw in the safety adjustment screw until it touches the safety.

Test your adjustments when finished. Reassemble and retest. 3 lbs minimum.
 
The Above is bang on.

I decided to muck with a trigger group just to see if I could figure out a solution. I thinned the spring to nothing. I even tried WITHOUT the spring. Mucked about with engagement angles and amounts. Essentially, mod'ed the parts to destruction.

End result was the geometry WILL NOT ALLOW A SAFE TRIGGER UNDER 3LBS - at least my parts wouldn't.

If you want a lighter trigger, get a replacement or get the accutrigger to begin with.

Jerry
 
I am pretty sure Sharp Shooter Supply will make a stock for you. They also have an excellent trigger that is worth every penny. I went this route along with a Shilen barrel from Jerry. Put a Elite 6500 into some Burris rings (also from Jerry) and this thing will shoot into 3/4" or less. Not bad for a $300 rifle to start with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom