Your Suggestion on a 1911 holster

I've done a fair amount of shooting from a holster (with a loaded gun) and I can guarantee that if you're using a decent holster (Blade Tech, Solely Canadian, Raven) or any other professional level holster, you'd need to be far more than suspended upside down and jiggled to make your gun fall out. You had a bad experience (or saw someone else having one) with a garbage product that was being used for something it wasn't designed for. If you get a well made holster that was designed to allow someone to move around, live life, be in public, while carrying a gun you will not have any retention issues. I have an 8 year old Raven, that has been drawn from probably several hundred thousand times, it's been rolled on by a fat guy, it (the holster) has been dropped, kicked, skidded on gravel with a fat guy on it, and drawn relentlessly - it has a crack in it now, and it will still hold a loaded M&P9 upside down and not release it if shaken. Buy good gear, let the other guys experiment with crap.
 
frzburn said:
No, never tried one. I guess the key is, as you said, to have them properly adjusted between not enough retention, and too hard to pull out, dragging the holster and the belt with the pistol.
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You have to try one. The gun isn't held in with friction like a knife in a tight sheath, the holster is molded to the gun's shape so it kind of snaps into place and then is held similar to the way a spring detent holds a knob or lever in place. When you draw you have to pull hard enough to break it free of the "lock" and then it pulls out with very little additional friction once the lock has been broken free. When you adjust the holster fit what you are really doing is setting the level of force required to break the gun loose from the hold position, the level of friction after that never really changes. It clicks in and clicks out.

No one has said yet, so I will. Buy a proper holster belt as well. None of these holsters will work worth a damn on a fashion belt, you need the stiffness and body of a holster belt to keep all your gear properly in its place.


Mark
 
frzburn said:
I just ordered my first 1911, and I've been shopping for a holster since then but can't settle my mind...

My experience is limited to drop-leg holsters, a canvas Blackhawk (like this one) and a Safariland. The Blackhawk is good to keep the pistol in the holster, but is a PITA if you have to get it out quick. The Safariland, really liked it.

I oubviously have a preference for the drop-legs, since that's all that I've used and I'm comfortable with them. But I'm still open to any suggestions. I'm aware that, without any other gear, a belt holster is probably what's best, and the quickest. One criteria I can't overlook, is a holster with at least one retention mechanism other than friction. I just can't wrap my head having a holster without any.

That said, here's what I found so far. A Blackhawk Serpa (CQC for belt, other models for drop-leg) and Safariland 6355, 6005, 6385, 6377, 6378 et 5187. (All look fine to me at first sight)

It's for a 1911 with a rail, so it quite narrows the choices.

About the intended uses, well, nothing in particular for now, though I'm interested in 3-gun matches and, maybe, IPSC eventually.

So I do have my preferences, but I'm really open to any suggestions and piece of advice you might have. :)
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Alright I will chime in here.

Those canvas Blackhawk holsters I can't deal with, tried one years ago and the lack of solidity just drove me batsh*t insane.

I run a Blackhawk Serpa Level 2 drop leg setup for my .45ACP 1911 on my left side, an I use a Serpra CQC on my right side (Belt mounted) for my 9mm 1911.

I run both guns in Condition 1 99% of the time and have zero issues. (Loaded chamber, mag inserted, cocked and locked)

As far as active retention goes, I prefer them but hey I shoot 1911's so clearly I have no beef with additional muscle reflexes being required.

Hitting the holsters release is all part of placing my finger in a safe place as I draw the pistol so I am not bothered.

I will say compared to a Raven/Solely/ect holster, the Blackhawks do stick out a bit and snag easier then other holsters, but for almost all of our needs that does not matter at all.

The cheapo Fobus holsters.....they are cursed by many and dirt cheap but I got one for a Beretta 92 and man it holds tight, takes a good affirmative tug to get the pistol to release just based on squeeze tension.

I've shot with ButcherBill at the range before, good safe shooter that is quite meticulous about his form or at least I observed in his repetition of technique, speaking of such we gotta get out again soon man but curse this piss pouring rain an my new work schedule.

Now the important part, be safe and train train train!

It ain't no race so take it nice and slow and develop your muscle memory.



mmattockx, very valid point about a proper belt. It sure keeps your pistol and other gear in solid positions to develop your skills on top of.

All forms of body positioning will affect your draw but you just have to train yourself around all of those variables.
 
way more important to hit rounds on target on all sorts of stances and grips, in comps very rarely are you in a perfect stance and grip.

that being said I prefer tension retention holsters on a very hard sturdy belt, i like my holster high on my hip, drop leg bother me immensely.
 
I am not an operator so drop legs and other holsters that stick out annoy me.
I have used Serpa L3s for a long time and have no problem with the draw. I recently switched to SolCan because I'm taking a course in the States and Blackhawks are verboten there.
Since I mainly shoot IDPA, I really like a high ride, snug fitting holster and SolCan does the job well. 100% on a proper gun belt!!
PS Grove, is that Abby F&G you're shooting at?
 
Lots of good info guys, thanks a lot!

OK so I've settled my mind on a hip/belt holster. No more drop-leg, except for work.

I'm still a little bit more inclined towards a Safariland model 6390 like this (the thumb guard can be removed):
DG_6390_black_gun_with_belt.jpg


but I am seriously considering the SolCan more and more now...
 
The SolCan can be built exactly the way you want, including cant and belt loop size. I believe it's also cheaper than the Safariland.
The Safailand looks more like a duty/ open carry holster. The SolCan is more concealment or competition style.
 
Trinimon said:
I like the Alpha Academy holsters. I got a couple of the PDR ones that are felt lined. Then someone mentioned to me that after a day holstering/unholstering at a dusty range, the felt will trap dust particles and turn it into fine sandpaper and wear the finish faster. Might look into the PDR Pro unlined series.
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Are they available locally?
 
Grove said:
I run both guns in Condition 1 99% of the time and have zero issues. (Loaded chamber, mag inserted, cocked and locked)

Hitting the holsters release is all part of placing my finger in a safe place as I draw the pistol so I am not bothered.


I've shot with ButcherBill at the range before, good safe shooter that is quite meticulous about his form or at least I observed in his repetition of technique, speaking of such we gotta get out again soon man but curse this piss pouring rain an my new work schedule.

Now the important part, be safe and train train train!

It ain't no race so take it nice and slow and develop your muscle memory.
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Cheers buddy, yes we should meet up and do some shooting. I'll PM you my cell number and we can set something up.

Let me say something, I did not say holstering and drawing a loaded pistol was dangerous. Someone said the serpa was looked upon as being unsafe, I said I use one with no issues. Someone asked why I would risk a ND while using a serpa. I said I generally never draw a loaded gun from it, therefore I'm not at risk of shooting myself in the leg lol. Do I think it's a great holster, it's alright. The bladetech that came with my m&p9 kit is way nicer with only a level1 retention, I prefer the kydex holster I have for my TT-33. When I get a holster for the 1911, it will not be a serpa. But I don't have a problem with them, it does what I need it to do.

Would I trust it with a loaded pistol? Yes I would. Do I ever draw loaded? Sure, sometimes I do. Generally (90% of the time) I don't. When I do I make sure I don't have my finger inside the trigger guard till I'm ready to fire.

If I ever get into competition shooting I'll buy a different holster, in the meantime I'll continue on. Play safe people ;)
 
G-Code makes their XST Level 2 retention holster for a railed 1911. For 3 Gun, you can run with the retention hood in place. Or, for other times when you don't need the Level 2 retention, just retract the hood and use the Level 1 friction retention. This is the setup that I use for my STI Spartan (I have the non-railed XST) for local 3 Gun and Steel Challenge matches.
 
FYI, I finally made a choice and I just ordered a Solely Canadian holster. All was settle with a few e-mails today, it really was a pleasure doing business with them.

skoal, thanks for the tip about the thumb break. It wasn't on their web site, and that's what made me take my decision.
 
I might be the odd man out here, but I just purchased a Solely Canadian concealment holster on the EE. I absolutely hate this holster. I find it too moulded if that makes sense. It even goes into the cocking serration's on the slide which has a cheese grater effect.

I have almost every brand of plastic moulded holster produced and this is my least favourite if I can be polite about it. I know this opinion will not be shared by many but it is my experience. And I really wanted to like this Canadian product.
 
MustangFrank said:
I might be the odd man out here, but I just purchased a Solely Canadian concealment holster on the EE. I absolutely hate this holster. I find it too moulded if that makes sense. It even goes into the cocking serration's on the slide which has a cheese grater effect.

I have almost every brand of plastic moulded holster produced and this is my least favourite if I can be polite about it. I know this opinion will not be shared by many but it is my experience. And I really wanted to like this Canadian product.
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You know you're odd...

Seems like maybe you got an early Solely Canadian product that may have been "overcooked", thus leading to the grater effect you lament. You could heat the inside up and smooth out the serrations, or you could contact Solely and see if they will replace it...

Why don't you try using .40 mags in your 9mm at an IPSC shoot while you're at it?!? ;)
 
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