Zastava M70 stock finish

kjohn

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I have a brand new M70 just arrived. I am away from home, so my gunner buddy picked it up at the PO. His son got one that was lightly used, and the stock cracked. What have Zastava users done to prevent the stock from cracking? I DO NOT like shiny stocks. I am wondering about raw or boiled linseed oil. That’s all I’ve ever used on any of my firearms.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or experiences.
 
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Cracked meaning the finish is cracked or the wood is cracked?

I’d strip it down and refinish it with Danish oil.

I’m not sure. I’ll find out when I get home. I read that others find the stocks to be rather “dry”, so a refinish might be in order.
 
Rifle showed up when I was away. Gunner buddy Deaner picked it up. The stock is rather dry. Deaner will put some Tru-Oil on it. Otherwise, looks good. I'll get a pic or two up when he's done with the oil.
 
Not real certain by what you mean about "dry" - I had bought a new M70 Zastava in August 2013. For about a year or more was in my cabinet in Manitoba - never fired it. I decided to dismantle and clean - I found the bulkhead between the magazine box and the trigger mortice cracked right through - as in the wood was separated. I ended up building multiple layers of epoxy to reinforce that. I also replaced the factory trigger and installed a "stirrup" shape reinforce inside to hold the sides together. Not real sure how a coating on outside surface of the wood is going to change the moisture content within the wood - I guess it lets moisture in /out or it doesn't.
 
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kjohn, Zastava stocks often leave a lot to be desired, IMHO.

Over the years, I've owned and sold a half dozen of them. All shot very well.

Every single one of them needed the stocks repaired. IMHO, the wood the Yugoslavians use for those stocks isn't cured properly.

The wood is quite porous as well and again, IMHO should be much denser for all sorts of good reasons.

I've had to glass bed every one of the ZM70 rifles I've had, to stop them from splitting and stay accurate.

Zastava has come a long way as far as quality control goes on their rifles. Sooooo if that were my rifle, the first things I would do with it is to open up the barrel channel, then glass bed the action, from the king screw/recoil lug, all the way to the rear receiver tang.

I found out the hard way that soaking the stock in oil really didn't help.

They're good rifles that get better, with a laminated replacement stock.
 
bearhunter: I won't be using this rifle very much, but I appreciate the heads up on the bedding etc. The stock isn't exactly a work of art, but neither am I. :p
 
I've had several Zastava's over the years. I stripped every one of them and refinished with oil. Bedding the action will eliminate any movement which is usually a contributing factor in cracked stocks. I happen to have a Zastava stock on the bench right now that needs several more coats of oil to complete it. Some come with nicely figured wood but the cheesy stamped checkering and low quality varnish leave a lot to be desired. There are lots of options when it comes to aftermarket stocks so it's up to you as how much love you have for your rifle. I love my Mauser actions and for the price, the Zastava's are a bargain.
 
bearhunter: I won't be using this rifle very much, but I appreciate the heads up on the bedding etc. The stock isn't exactly a work of art, but neither am I. :p

kjohn, this is just a heads up.

I don't know what you call "very much"

I had one that I installed a steel recoil shoulder into and didn't bed it in place. Just screwed it down.

That stock split while sitting in the safe between November and early March.

IMHO, it's the luck of the draw.

As such, the very first things I did, even to new in box rifles was to relieve the barrel channels and glass bed the actions into the stock.

I also made up a batch of thin, clear bedding resin to spread thinly on the bottom of the barrel channel and around the trigger guard area.

I now do this with most wooden stocks, even laminates. Saves all sorts of non needed issues later, while out in the field, where it's least needed.

I've had similar issues with BSA rifles and learned my lesson there.

At least BSA saw there was a problem with their stocks cracking from recoil, etc and they installed a tapered dowel, just in front of the trigger. Problem being, they used a non waterproof glue and the dowel would dry and slip out, usually unnoticed, and lost.
 
My M70 came with a surprisingly high figured stock, but the finish was dry looking and dry feeling. I wiped it down with menthol hydrate using very fine steel wool and rages, then over a few days applied Minwax Tong (sp?) Oil; I think about 5 or six coats, with a soft rag, wiping it into the wood, let sit for an hour, wipe it off and let dry over night, and lightly use steel wool, and repeat. I sealed all of the inside surfaces as well I ended up with a beautiful, deep, waterproof sheen, but certainly not glossy.
 
My M70 is done. Very nice. I left it at Deaner's for today, as I wasn't going straight home. When I get it home, I'll post a pic, even though it is just a "Norinco" from Serbia. :p
 
kjohn, this is just a heads up.

I don't know what you call "very much"

I had one that I installed a steel recoil shoulder into and didn't bed it in place. Just screwed it down.

That stock split while sitting in the safe between November and early March.

IMHO, it's the luck of the draw.

As such, the very first things I did, even to new in box rifles was to relieve the barrel channels and glass bed the actions into the stock.

I also made up a batch of thin, clear bedding resin to spread thinly on the bottom of the barrel channel and around the trigger guard area.

I now do this with most wooden stocks, even laminates. Saves all sorts of non needed issues later, while out in the field, where it's least needed.

I've had similar issues with BSA rifles and learned my lesson there.

At least BSA saw there was a problem with their stocks cracking from recoil, etc and they installed a tapered dowel, just in front of the trigger. Problem being, they used a non waterproof glue and the dowel would dry and slip out, usually unnoticed, and lost.

Which models of BSA had issues with their stock cracking?
 
These stocks are complete garbage as far as I can tell, I shot mine twice (it fired twice out of 5 rounds due to mechanical problems) and it cracked anyways. Received the rifle, removed the barreled action, Tru-oiled the stock with several coats over several days (inside and out) to a decent finish, reassembled, shot it, took it apart to address other things that were broken or poorly machined and noticed it had cracked and lost a chunk in front of the rear action screw and also cracked behind the recoil lug.

I fixed the cracks with epoxy, bedded the receiver with JB Weld, and spray painted the stock with a badly uneven few coats of Scott Towel blue Rustoleum out of spite before hockey-taping a slip-on recoil pad in place. It's the gun I love to hate.

Good luck!
 
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