zero for hunting, and rifle dating info

2legit

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Hey guys, back again with another noobie question. I have been getting pretty good with my 30-06 and am wanting to know what range for hunting should I zero it for? I am getting 1.25" grouping at 100 yrds and moved out to 150 with 2" groupings. Im new to shooting in general and haven't been hunting, nor do I have anyone to learn from. I noticed a huge difference in drop from 150-215yards and am just curious what a good zero'd range would be for hunting in BC.

Also how do I figure out the age of my rifle? It's a cooey for Winchester think its model 71 and has low serial number in the low 10xx.

thanks

Stu
 
People typically zero at around 200yds, which puts you maybe 2.5" high at 100yds and about the same low at 250yds. I like to be about 3" high at 100yds, which puts me around 1.75"-2" high at 200yds and zeroed around 225yds. That lets me aim at the center of any big game animal out to ~275yds before I have to worry about compensating for range.


Mark
 
200yds and use a scope with extra aiming points, I use a Leupold VX2 2-7x33 LR on my Tikka 30/06 with 180s. Dead on at 200, 1" low at 300, 2"high at 400 and 3" low at 500 with the different aiming points. I use an empty fridge box to test actual drop at the different ranges. Test and see where they hit, they are never what it says. Practice will tell and familiarize you with your load. I also use a Leupold rangefinder.
 
with a 30-06, go 1,5 to 2 inches high at 100 yds/m -- by doing that you can hold on an animal out to 300 to 350 yards depending on grain of bullet and put it down. 100 yard zero's brings up the need to do guess work if you encounter a long shot. OMHO
 
For my particular .30-06 load...165gn Remington PSP, chronied at 2500fps, zeroed at 255 yds, MPBR 305 yds on a 10' target.
Approx. 4.5" high at 100yds. Killer elk/moose load out to 400 yds (but you need to hold about 2' high then)
 
2Legit. Depends on bullet weight and are you shooting at a known velocity (handloads) or factory loads. Also there are many different things to consider. My 30'06 was sighted right on at 100 yards in Nova Scotia where I rarely shot beyond 50-75 yards and zeroed for 200-225 yards in BC and here in Sask with 165 grain bullets.

It's really a personal decision as long as you know your ballistics and more importantly your limits.
 
1'' high at 100yards for me

.303

I just assumed it would put me in and around an inch low at 200 and 4-5'' at 300.. Working fine for me mind you I havnt had the need to take a shot past 150-200.


I sighted my friends 3006 in for him the other day and put him an inch high also...

Im starting to like the idea of 2'' high though now after reading a few posts.
 
Zero at 200, check point of impact at 100 and 300...you will see how versatile this is.

Zeroing at 100 makes no sense with a cartridge with the ranging capabilities of .30-06, unless you absolutely know that you won't be shooting at anything longer than the 150 you mentioned. Even then, the 200-yard zero has no disadvantages, and if the once-in-a-lifetime shot at 300 yards presents itself, you're well prepared.
 
1'' high at 100yards for me

.303

I just assumed it would put me in and around an inch low at 200 and 4-5'' at 300.. Working fine for me mind you I havnt had the need to take a shot past 150-200.

Using a 180gr bullet @ 2400fps muzzle velocity (and a generous BC of 0.440), your 1" high at 100yds leaves you:

200 -3.4"
250 -8.7"
300 -16.2"

Not really like you assumed, because the .303 is nowhere near as flat shooting as the 30-06.

Using 2" high at 100yds you get:

200 -1.4"
250 -6.2"
300 -13.2"

Using 3" high at 100yds you get:

200 -0.6"
250 -3.7"
300 -10.2"

Just for reference, the highest point in the trajectory for the above setup is 3.1" high at 125yds.

Just my $0.02, but I would be zeroing somewhere around 2.5" at 100yds with your .303 for the most versatile setup. I would also actually shoot it at 200yds and 300yds to see what really happens compared to what the ballistics calculator says will happen.


Mark
 
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