zeroing sights on M14?

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LeftFootOfDoom

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Looking for some assistance from the M14 gurus here. Took my M14 to the range and found that it is zeroed for 50 meters, with the elevation dial set at 200. POI dead center bull 5 rounds 1 inch group.

Since the front sight doesnt screw up/down, how do you zero this sight?:confused:

Thanks
 
What ammo are you using if it is Nato standard 147 grain
should be 2750 feet per second and b.C. of .4 well according to http://www.handloads.com/calc/ you are off by two inches at 50 yards. The sight is not calibrated in yards but rather metres.

Since I shoot at ranges marked in yards my bubba solution was to use a spot of car paint to mark my ranges on the sight.
 
The rear sight does most of the work. Here's what you do if you have a 100 meter or yard range:

1) zero your rifle and adjust your rear sight so that POI is Point of Aim at 100 m (simpler that way)
2) TURN DOWN (forward) the rear aperture and COUNT # of kliks heard/felt on your descent. Good, now write this number down (NOW)... If you don't keep a notebook, start or put one together NOW.

3) Flat bladed screw driver needed.... Loosen the rear sight elevation pinion screw until it spins freely, confirm this by turning the elevation knob forward and the aperture remains bottomed out.

4) While turning the elevation knob FORWARD, locate and align the 100 m / yd zero index line. Good, now ROTATE the knob FORWARD the EXACT number of kliks that you recorded 2 steps ago. Tighten firmly (not tight as fzck).

5) Rotate rearward, raise your rear aperture all the way up and gently tighten again.

6) Final test. CLOSE your eyes and rotate the elev knob forward to absolute bottom. Now back off the number of kliks your rifle and ammo combination needs to zero at 100. You SHOULD be lined up at the 100 zero.... yeah, it's safe to open your eyes now. yuk, yuk.

These steps have been carried out hundreds of times after having competed in NRA High Power matches for almost 15 years. They work for me and I hope they work for you.

Cheers,
Barney
 
Barney, don't forget to tell folks , that if they are going to use a screwdriver on their rifles, make sure it fits the screw exactly .That way the screws dont get all messed up, and future adjustments and repairs are easier.Besides if you use the proper fitting screw driver , tight screws will come out much easier , since you are getting full torque applied to the screw instead of allowing the driver to twist in the screw.
Scott
 
Last edited:
str8shot said:
Barney, don't forget to tell folks , that if they are going to use a screwdriver on their rifles, make sure it fits the screw exactly .That way the screws dont get all messed up, and future adjustments and repairs are easier.Besides if you use the proper fitting screw driver , tight screws will come out much easier , since you are getting full torque applied to the screw instead of allowing the driver to twist in the screw.
Scott
Click to expand...

Sounds like a lesson on "Canada's Worst Handyman"
 
Sounds like a lesson on "Canada's Worst Handyman"


Sorry , I guess it comes from too many broken , or messed up bolts,screws, etc. removed, on the job.A lot of which could have been removed with the use of the proper tool in the first place.
Scott
 
Since the original poster has solved his problem, I hope no offence will be taken by me asking for some related advice on this thread.

My sights won't lower enough to zero at 100 yards with the navy style front sight. I guess I need to find an aperature with the hole drilled lower down.

I'm currently using one from a garand sight. My Norinco aperature does have the hole lower, but it slops around from side to side when installed.

I don't imagine I can order an aperature from a supplier with the hole drilled in a specific spot, so I'm not sure how to solve this.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Or perhaps someone has some spare aperatures and could mail them to me (at my expense) so I can find one that works well for me? I'd return the rest and of course pay for the one I keep.

TIA for any advice. :)
 
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