Zhukov ak handgaurd

2- Cut the handguard holder , be very careful to not cut to deep( you will touch the barrel) , i use masking tape on the barrel and i cut it living 1 cm on each side use vise grip to sheer it slowly! that all for the riffle :) the hard part is after ( the frame of the Zhukov hand guard)


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2- Cut the handguard holder , be very careful to not cut to deep( you will touch the barrel) , i use masking tape on the barrel and i cut it living 1 cm on each side use vise grip to sheer it slowly! that all for the riffle :) the hard part is after ( the frame of the Zhukov hand guard)


View attachment 62083

Does the handguard sit nice and solid once installed? I bought a ZHUKOV handguard, but im very hesitant on doing the installation due to all the permanent mods required. You might see a ZHUKOV on the EE pretty soon! lol
 
Hello Father of Zhukov, it is coming at CTCS( i think the are waiting on import papers) i was in Vegas last week lucky to find one ! Scot the owner of RS regulate is awesome :)
 
In case anybody is interested in knowing this, the hand guard can be installed without dremmeling off the sling attachment ring and the hand guard ferrule. I did it, I just had to modify the aluminum spacer a whole lot more. But it works! If I ever get around to uploading the pictures to the bucket I'll post some of them here.
 
In case anybody is interested in knowing this, the hand guard can be installed without dremmeling off the sling attachment ring and the hand guard ferrule. I did it, I just had to modify the aluminum spacer a whole lot more. But it works! If I ever get around to uploading the pictures to the bucket I'll post some of them here.

PLEASE POST DETAILS AND PICS! I really want to try the Zhukov on my rifle, I just don't want to perma mod my gun.
 
OK, here are some pics of my hand guard. I will start with the cuts to the aluminum chassis.

Here are the cuts I made to the front of the chassis, in order not to cut the sling attachment ring and the stock ferrule off the rifle. The one closest to the muzzle is to accommodate the sling attachment ring. The channels to the rear of that are for the stock ferrule:




I also cut a rectangle at the bottoms, because I was planning on installing the chassis a little higher than I ended up doing and needed it to allow the bottom of the stock ferrule to go through it. Now, since I installed it lower, I probably didn’t need to make that cut.



The original CZ-58 handguard seems to put some tension between the receiver and the stock ferrule, so I wanted my Zhukov to exert the same pressure, once mounted. With that in mind, I didn’t follow Magpul’s instructions which call for the handguard to be “hanging” from the barrel. Instead, I made the cuts for the stock ferrule in the aluminum chassis at a specific distance to be able to squeeze the chassis up between ferrule and receiver to exert that bit of pressure the original handguard was exerting (or at least close to it).
I have only been able to shoot it at close distance since installing the Zhukov, but POI doesn’t seem to have changed and neither has accuracy. But I need to test at longer distances to be sure of it.

Here are the cuts at the top rear of the chassis, needed in order to fit it tight against the receiver and high enough to hug the bottom of the receiver underneath the rear sight block.



Notice that I had to drill and tap a new hole to each side of the rear of the chassis. This was necessary because I didn’t want to cut the rear M-Lok channels like id64 did. Cutting those rail sections is required if you want to install the handguard the closest possible to the barrel. So, since I had to mount mine lower, once I installed the plastic cover it interfered somewhat with the magazine insertion and removal. This forced me to move the plastic cover further forward, hence the need for the new holes.

Be aware that doing it like I did pushes the holding tabs at the front of the plastic cover out of their recesses in the aluminum chassis. I didn’t mind this at all, because I had planned to install M-Lok rails at the front of the handguard, and they hold the plastic cover securely onto the aluminum chassis, so no need for the plastic tabs.

And finally, here is the modification to the top half of the barrel clamps needed to clear the NEA railed aluminum handguard:



The aluminum pieces next to the barrel clamp halves are the spacers required to fill the gap between the aluminum chassis and the bottom halves of the barrel clamps. I couldn’t find any at the hardware store, so I had to make my own.
 
Here’s how the aluminum chassis looks like installed on the rifle, minus the plastic cover. At this stage, I was still playing with the spacers so the chassis is still not properly levelled (in fact I am still playing with them). Be aware that longer machine screws are needed, because the ones provided are too short. I chose stainless steel as replacements.









Here you can see the cuts to the plastic cover:



And here is what the finished product looks like:






I hope this helps.
 
Here’s how the aluminum chassis looks like installed on the rifle, minus the plastic cover. At this stage, I was still playing with the spacers so the chassis is still not properly levelled (in fact I am still playing with them). Be aware that longer machine screws are needed, because the ones provided are too short. I chose stainless steel as replacements.









Here you can see the cuts to the plastic cover:



And here is what the finished product looks like:






I hope this helps.

Thanks for the pics dude! I think im gonna do this now!
 
Yes lucsergerie, it is a bit low, but like I said, I didn't want to cut the rails at the rear of the aluminum chassis. If I cut them, I will be able to seat the handguard a bit higher, however, I will also lose the ability to install the QD sling mount at the rear of the hand guard, like on your last picture. For now, I'll leave it like that, 'cause once I've cut the ears off, there's no putting them back on.
 
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