The Norinco M334 in detail. A bizarre Mauser variant! Now with range report.

jbmauser

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Well after wanting to examine one of these for years but not wanting to pay too much to do it, I was finally able to get my hands on one from a fellow forum member for a reasonable price. It's used but very lightly and other than the green paint job on the stock, it is unmodified.

The receiver rail is marked "Made in China by Xinan" and "Exp. by Norinco". The receiver ring is marked "Norinco M334 .308 Win.

I'll do a complete detailed description of it and follow it up with pics below.

The sights are all metal and the rear is adjustable for both windage and elevation. The front sight blade is enormous and could probably be used as a gut hook in the event you harvest something but forget your knife at home. The barrel is approx 24" long.

The receiver is drilled and tapped with standard spacing for Weaver bases but I'm not sure on the base numbers needed yet at this point. Not standard M98 bases any way as the rear receiver ring is fairly close in height to the front. The front ring measures 1.41" so basically a large ring M98 dia. Center to center hole spacing for the receiver screws measures 7 5/8", so a bit shorter than a M98.

Now here's where it gets a bit weird. The front receiver ring is obviously way longer than normal. I initially was planning to take off the barrel to see what kind of threading it had but on close examination I can see the barrel is pressed and pinned in place with 2 large pins through the receiver ring. The pins are ground flush but still visible. I think I captured them in the one pic. The receiver has the H style inner shoulder.

The trigger is all steel and fully adjustable. It is horrendous the way it is set up now so I'll have to fool with that a bit. The safety is a sliding style and locks the bolt closed when on safe. It is electro penciled with the last 4 digits of the rifles serial.

The bolt stop/ejector assy appears to be pretty standard M98 in design and dimensions. The firing pin is approx 3/16" shorter than a standard M98 but is pretty close in design. The cocking piece is again very similar to a commercial M98 piece and has the hole to aid disassembly. The bolt shroud looks like a typical commercial M98 unit but the threads are quite different. Much finer threads.

The bolt is very much M98 in design with the third lug and oval gas ports. The bolt face is recessed a bit more than normal and the bolt is 1/4" shorter than standard. It has a cocking ramp set up very similar to the speed lock system on the Zastava commercial M98's. The handle is integral to the bolt and swept back in the same profile as a FN or Zastava commercial bolt. It even has some pressed checkering on the bottom of the knob.

The bottom metal is hinged and machined pretty thick in the mag well walls and other areas. It appears pretty heavy duty. The mag length is set up for the .308 OAL.

I'm not sure what kind of wood the stock is made out of but it is very light. It's also starting to crack around the recoil lug and is very poorly inletted. VERY poorly. It could definitely use a bedding.

The overall impression of this is pretty crude. Functional but crude. I'm not sure on the type of metal used but there are hardness test dimples in all the right places so it was heat treated with some care and properly tested it seems. I'm not impressed by the pressed and pinned barrel. I'd be interested in some opinions on the strength of such a setup. I know it's used on lots of military arms and such so not a new concept by any means but not something I'm familiar with on a hunting rifle with a relatively high pressure cartridge.

I plan on doing some work to this thing to smooth out some of the metal work and redo the stock. I first want to do a shooting test just the way it is if I can muster the courage to fire the thing. I will follow up with a range report and any further work as I go along.

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The barrel pins:

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If anyone has questions or something they would like to see, let me know. It's still all apart so I can take pics or measurements.
 
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It's probably AAA fancy walnut under that paint! Are the front base holes off center, or is it just the pic? How smooth is the action?
I actually have some bases here that line up fairly well. The only problem is the rifle is drilled for 8-40 screws so I can't actually install them. Just sticking the 6-48 screws through the bases into the holes and then mounting my aligning bars it seems pretty good.

The action isn't very smooth. Not horrible but not great either.
 
Wow! looks like a rare Khyber Pass Mauser ! :p

Easy to see the roughness of the whole thing,the pic speaks by themselves...
While not my own favourite, the pinned barrel should hold on fine. I wouldn't rechamber it in .300 RUM, though :)
The reason for the elongated front receiver ring is clear when we know that the barrel is pinned.

One more funny thing is the similarities of the trigger with Zastava's own.

As for steel used by the Chinese for firearm, unlike a lot of people may think, the analysis made on it usually shows properly heat treated and quality modern alloyed steel... but some parts, made of low carbon steel, are very soft.


The way I see it is that it's a short action, made for the .308 size using pre-98 action screws spacing...

Ineresting animal...
 
It is interesting but too bad the barrel isn't threaded. With some work, the action would make a neat donor for some project but the pressed and pinned barrel eliminates that possibility.

There are hardness test dimples on the receiver lug area, bolt lugs, extractor, and cocking piece. I would suspect it's made with some modern alloy and obviously with some care so I doubt strength will be an issue.

Hopefully I can get it to shoot well. Scope base mounting is going to be bit of a pain as the threads seem to be some sort of metric size. I have to do a little digging yet and see what I come up with.
 
Are you certain the barrel is not threaded? Somewhere along the line, I heard they were threaded and pinned.

Ted
It's definitely a possibility Ted.

One of the main reasons I think it's just pressed and pinned is that if you look down the front scope base hole threaded into the front receiver ring, you can see the barrel shank and it is smooth. Typically you can see the threads in a normal action.

I'll clean out the hole really good and see if I can get a good pic of it for you.
 
They are rare because the batch that was imported was scrapped; I believe due to stretching receivers or barrels walking out (I forget). OP, shoot me an email for a contact with the info.
 
They are rare because the batch that was imported was scrapped; I believe due to stretching receivers or barrels walking out (I forget). OP, shoot me an email for a contact with the info.

Thanks for the info. I sent you an email.

So basically I have a wall hanger novelty or maybe a cast bullet reduced load plinker then. Good to know. I don't need a barrel stuck in my forearm.
 
Of course, if the pins and / or the barrel are too soft and it's just pinned, then, the assembly can stretch.... actually, it will develop headspace problems well before the barrel flies...
 
Maybe it would be best to stick to reduced loads with H4895. I see several loads listed on their website that generate about 30,000 CUP. That's a long way off the full pressure .308 loads.
 
Ok. I was in contact with the original importer of these. The batch they received was head spaced incorrectly right from the start and that's why they were scrapped. It wasn't due to receiver stretch or barrels walking out.

I also talked with another dealer that was selling these more recently and he has no reports of anything like receivers stretching or barrels coming loose and feels the set up is more than adequate for .308 Win.

Some quick google research also shows that some of these were sold in several countries other than Canada and I didn't see any reports of failures on the few forums that they are mentioned in.

So based on this, I'm going to go ahead and do some work to it and do some shooting. I've already adjusted the trigger to a pretty reasonable set up and am on the hunt for the original bases and mounting screws. If not, I'll retap them to 8-40.
 
Sorry, no. I wasn't able to locate any factory scope bases or the metric screws for it so I'll have to re-tap them to 8-40. I just haven't got around to it. I thought I had 8-40 bushings and taps for my fixture but I don't.
 
Does the bolt release lever have a wooden insert, or is that just rust?

Not rust or wood, just a common color for spring steels that have been blued. There are lots of factors that contribute to this color including the metal composition, bluing solution, etc. Pretty common on extractors as well.

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