I'm in the market for a reliable semi, I've decided on a 10/22 platform, I don't like tinkering, I basically want to buy and shoot. My main priority is reliablity and durability. As far as accuracy, I would be happy with 3/4" at 50 yards with the right ammo, but I want it to be able to digest almost anything, it will be used mainly for a field gun. My question is, which do you think would suit my needs better, a stock 10/22 with a trigger job, or a DAR22 with a trigger job, is the DAR worth the extra cash? Just trying to sort things out. Thanks for input.
10/22 question
- Thread starter jes
- Start date
I had one new out of box 10/22 that never missed a beat. I was pretty impressed. I don't know the accuracy, minute of gopher (Richardson Ground Squirrel actually) was good enough. Not everyone has this experience.
The DAR is quite a bit more money, I don't think you'd get that much extra bang for your buck, though you might have to "tinker" with the Ruger.
The DAR is quite a bit more money, I don't think you'd get that much extra bang for your buck, though you might have to "tinker" with the Ruger.
I must must be the most unlucky 10/22 owner on the planet. Mine will not shoot reliable at all with any hi cap mags. I have butler creek steel lip 25rd mags with a brick of ammo through them but they still jam 5 to 10 times a mag. The aa922 promag I got works with only 5 rds in it. The only mags that work in mine are the factory original and a 10rd BC steel lip. I used every ammo I could find and settled on CCI mini mag. That is the most reliable but with a 75% reliability rate I give up. I am not new to guns or shooting, have a half dozen 22's that work great but I just can't believe the luck I am having with the famed 10/22.
I bought it because I am going to be shooting competitions that are ipsc style with 22 rifles. Hi cap will rule the day and that is what led me to the 10/22.
Moe
I bought it because I am going to be shooting competitions that are ipsc style with 22 rifles. Hi cap will rule the day and that is what led me to the 10/22.
Moe
If priority is reliability and durability I'd say go with the stainless with the synthetic stock. As for 3/4" at 50 yards, that's totally doable with a decent scope and decent ammo your particular 10/22 likes. Between various lines even with the same manufacturer, I find noticeable differences in quality, and good quality or not, how they function in my 10/22. Thus far I've been buying a few bricks of hundreds of many different kinds of ammunition, and eventually hoping to stock up on 1 or 2 that run well in my 10/22 in VERY large bulk format.
If you truly want something that will "digest almost anything" AND be reliable and durable in the .22LR, I'd personally go with a bolt action. Many lower velocity, target or subsonic .22LRs do not cycle well in any semi-auto .22. While a bolt action would cycle them without issue.
Personally, I wouldn't go with the DAR22, but I would spring for a trigger job in terms of value. The stock 10/22 platform is pretty accurate, and not that noticeably improved in the DAR22. The accuracy you can get within 50-75 yards will be more determined by your skill than whether it's a 10/22 or a DAR. You'll see far more variation in accuracy just be switching between similarly priced ammo. I have entirely disassembled and polished the contact surfaces on internal components, reprofiled the sear slightly. It helps but the trigger pull is still to high for my liking. I'll live with it for now, but it's on the to-do list. No big deal, but when you shoot 500-1000 rounds in a few hours, you'd be surprised.
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
speaking as a fella that has 2xDAR and 3xruger sitting in the safe, for what you have listed above id say go stock ruger.
ive never had a problem with mine, though i do prefer my older one to my new one.
the DAR platform is much higher end hence the price increase.
it dosnt sound like that is what you are in the market for or need.
do i love my DAR's?
you bet your bottom dollar!
but i also shoot them once a week so im getting my money out of them.
if your just wanting a blaster that will work then just spend the sub 300 and get the stock one.
now, that said, if your wanting a blaster that will turn heads and everyone will want to shoot and is FUN to shoot, then yes, look at a DAR.
i had my DAR shorty in at the local machine shop looking to see if he could help me with a build i was doing and ever guy that came in would pick up my gun and offer to buy it on the spot.
one guy had me worried, i thought for sure he wasnt gonna take no for a answer!
they are by far the most comfy 22 i have ever shot.
ive never had a problem with mine, though i do prefer my older one to my new one.
the DAR platform is much higher end hence the price increase.
it dosnt sound like that is what you are in the market for or need.
do i love my DAR's?
you bet your bottom dollar!
but i also shoot them once a week so im getting my money out of them.
if your just wanting a blaster that will work then just spend the sub 300 and get the stock one.
now, that said, if your wanting a blaster that will turn heads and everyone will want to shoot and is FUN to shoot, then yes, look at a DAR.
i had my DAR shorty in at the local machine shop looking to see if he could help me with a build i was doing and ever guy that came in would pick up my gun and offer to buy it on the spot.
one guy had me worried, i thought for sure he wasnt gonna take no for a answer!
they are by far the most comfy 22 i have ever shot.
Out of curiosity, what ammo(s) have you been running through your 10/22?
My HC3R mag was VERY unreliable brand new. I got multiple fail to feeds per magazine. Heck so was the 10 round rotary one that came with it. Even that had a number of fail to feeds brand new. But after running a couple hundred rounds through them, they have become very reliable. I ran a couple hundred rounds of Winchester Wildcat through 2 HC3Rs today with only 1 fail to feed. And all it required was a re-rack of the bolt. It was the last round in the mag and didn't get pushed up all the way. While on the same day, in the same mag and 10/22, Remington Golds were crap. I had numerous fail to feeds with those today.
Totally agree. DARs are made so much nicer as a total package. You can definitely see where the "bean counters" left their mark on the 10/22. But for 3/4" groups at 50 yards, a 10/22 will more than suffice with all the durability/reliability at a much lower cost. Couldn't hurt to get a DAR later on
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
for a visual comparison, you are looking at either one of these for over $1000 all dressed up;
(shorty)
(long)
or one of these for under $300
stock ruger with a Hogue stock and fiber optic sights
stock stainless with a folding stock
good old fashioned wood, all stock
for interest sake lets keep going.
here is a stainless on a Boyd stock
and here is a hybred, this is a stock ruger receiver and trigger group with a Boyd stock and a Dlask (DAR) barrel, which is the cheap way to get into the DAR's
for this you need a new ruger ($270) then a boyd stock (100) then a Dlask Barrel (150) and then glass (100-200)
(shorty)
(long)
or one of these for under $300
stock ruger with a Hogue stock and fiber optic sights
stock stainless with a folding stock
good old fashioned wood, all stock
for interest sake lets keep going.
here is a stainless on a Boyd stock
and here is a hybred, this is a stock ruger receiver and trigger group with a Boyd stock and a Dlask (DAR) barrel, which is the cheap way to get into the DAR's
for this you need a new ruger ($270) then a boyd stock (100) then a Dlask Barrel (150) and then glass (100-200)
If it absolutely MUST go BANG! then I'd suggest a bolt action or a lever action.
Overall the 10/22 is a great rifle as far as semi autos go. But any rimfire semi can have days when it just does not want to play well. I've seen too many rimfire carbines of various brands that have had troubles at my club's Speed Steel shoots to absolutely trust any rimfire semi.
But if you positively must have a semi then the Ruger is one of the better choices... as long as you stick with the stock 10 round Ruger mags.
Overall the 10/22 is a great rifle as far as semi autos go. But any rimfire semi can have days when it just does not want to play well. I've seen too many rimfire carbines of various brands that have had troubles at my club's Speed Steel shoots to absolutely trust any rimfire semi.
But if you positively must have a semi then the Ruger is one of the better choices... as long as you stick with the stock 10 round Ruger mags.
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
currently im running Blazers, i picked up a crate (5000) and it was a good batch and they are running flawlessly!
ive found with the new rugers that ive been having to take them apart and polish up the insides a bit to get them to run good.
unlike the older ones that actually had some quality control at the factory.
but ive been wanting to do a experiment this summer so ive been picking up a variety of ammo i find and im gonna run them all and see what differences i can see between the ammo's with my main 2 DAR's
i just wanna pick up some higher end stuff to compare and ill be all set to go testing!
currently im running Blazers, i picked up a crate (5000) and it was a good batch and they are running flawlessly!
ive found with the new rugers that ive been having to take them apart and polish up the insides a bit to get them to run good.
unlike the older ones that actually had some quality control at the factory.
but ive been wanting to do a experiment this summer so ive been picking up a variety of ammo i find and im gonna run them all and see what differences i can see between the ammo's with my main 2 DAR's
i just wanna pick up some higher end stuff to compare and ill be all set to go testing!
Interesting. Perhaps the break in of the mags and their improved reliability coincided with my tear down, and sanding/polishing of all contact surfaces . . . hmmm
I shot it a few times before taking it apart and sanding/polishing all the contact surfaces and reprofiling the sear. I also threw in a Tuff Buffer. Loved how it took that clank out of the report, and made the 10/22 noticeably quieter. But from what other people say, the Tuff Buffer can reduce reliability. Who knows, maybe if I put the original back in, it'll make some ammos that don't cycle well in my 10/22 now better, and some that cycle well, not as well?
Last half dozen bricks were CCI mini mag. Seems to be the go to ammo for reliability with all my semi's
Moe
Shooter_01
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Durham Region, Ontario
This. The Takedown is a sweet little thing!
OK, let me put this in a different way, cost aside, can somebody walk me through a side by side comparison of a stock 10/22 and a DAR22, maybe even throw in a Magnum research for fun, regarding, in this order, reliability, durability and accuracy. I already have a few accurate bolts, I am just trying to make up my mind on a 10/22 or something similar.
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
the stocks.
ruger has the base wood or synthetic - traditional gun stock nothing wrong with it.
DAR22 uses the boyd evolution stock, more or a pistol grip feel to it.
the receivers.
ruger stock one is simple and that i would call thin in regards to how thick it is, anodizing or painting is thin and inside there is often lots of overshot paint that has to be cleaned up when ya get it so the bolt will travel smooth, rail is added on by 4 pre-tapped screws on the top.
DAR22 receivers - i only have the one with the built on rails so thats what ill be comparing. feel thicker and sturdier. has built on rail. some overshot paint/anodizing on the inside to clean up if you want smooth running bolt.
conclusion - reliability these are the same items, one just has a built on rail. you will never get a receiver failure with a ruger 10/22 and the only time that would happen that i can see would be if you had a out of battery detonation. dropping these would do little to nothing to them, they are made of aluminum.
Barrels
ruger runs stock barrel, nothing wrong with it, i have one that is 30 years old and has 100,000 + rounds down it and still pushes tac's.
DAR come with bull barrels and are proven to have more accuracy and be more consistent then stock barrels especially when multi rounds when hot.
length - can go from 8" to 21(?)
trigger group
the same for both, DAR use a stock ruger trigger group.
you can upgrade either with a VQ, Timney or Kidd, i see Dlask not offers their DAR's with Kidd triggers right from them for $300+
bolt
the same for both.
Dlask now makes their own which is identical to ruger, i dont see a difference between them.
bolts and v blocks
same for both, i find Dlask ones to always be a little thicker due to the anodizing they use.
Take down screw is the only exception, Dlask makes a hex head take down screw which is FAR SUPERIOR to the stock ruger flat head take down screw.
buffer pins
ruger uses a stock rolled metal pin - works fine, makes the gun 'clang' a little when shooting.
DAR you can get them with stock metal pin or spend the extra $5 and get a rubber buffer pin OR for either you can get a Kidd Buffer pin which are the best, i run these in ALL my rugers now, they are a mix of rubber and metal and are hands down the best.... and only $5
whats left..... nothing?
so conclusion;
they are the same, they function the same, you can interchange any part of them with the other and they are the same.
people get a DAR because they are a little nicer to look at.
do you want to drive a stock Honda Civic or do you want to drive a jacked up 4x4 tricked out with crome and big tires that turns heads where ever ya go?
ruger has the base wood or synthetic - traditional gun stock nothing wrong with it.
DAR22 uses the boyd evolution stock, more or a pistol grip feel to it.
the receivers.
ruger stock one is simple and that i would call thin in regards to how thick it is, anodizing or painting is thin and inside there is often lots of overshot paint that has to be cleaned up when ya get it so the bolt will travel smooth, rail is added on by 4 pre-tapped screws on the top.
DAR22 receivers - i only have the one with the built on rails so thats what ill be comparing. feel thicker and sturdier. has built on rail. some overshot paint/anodizing on the inside to clean up if you want smooth running bolt.
conclusion - reliability these are the same items, one just has a built on rail. you will never get a receiver failure with a ruger 10/22 and the only time that would happen that i can see would be if you had a out of battery detonation. dropping these would do little to nothing to them, they are made of aluminum.
Barrels
ruger runs stock barrel, nothing wrong with it, i have one that is 30 years old and has 100,000 + rounds down it and still pushes tac's.
DAR come with bull barrels and are proven to have more accuracy and be more consistent then stock barrels especially when multi rounds when hot.
length - can go from 8" to 21(?)
trigger group
the same for both, DAR use a stock ruger trigger group.
you can upgrade either with a VQ, Timney or Kidd, i see Dlask not offers their DAR's with Kidd triggers right from them for $300+
bolt
the same for both.
Dlask now makes their own which is identical to ruger, i dont see a difference between them.
bolts and v blocks
same for both, i find Dlask ones to always be a little thicker due to the anodizing they use.
Take down screw is the only exception, Dlask makes a hex head take down screw which is FAR SUPERIOR to the stock ruger flat head take down screw.
buffer pins
ruger uses a stock rolled metal pin - works fine, makes the gun 'clang' a little when shooting.
DAR you can get them with stock metal pin or spend the extra $5 and get a rubber buffer pin OR for either you can get a Kidd Buffer pin which are the best, i run these in ALL my rugers now, they are a mix of rubber and metal and are hands down the best.... and only $5
whats left..... nothing?
so conclusion;
they are the same, they function the same, you can interchange any part of them with the other and they are the same.
people get a DAR because they are a little nicer to look at.
do you want to drive a stock Honda Civic or do you want to drive a jacked up 4x4 tricked out with crome and big tires that turns heads where ever ya go?
Great write up Wayup! Simple and honest!
It boils down to looks, money and bragging about how much money you can throw at your 10/22 or multiple 10/22s.
Another forum to look at is rimfire but you already have I bet.
Yes they wont have info on Dlask but there are many receivers other than dlask to choose from!
It boils down to looks, money and bragging about how much money you can throw at your 10/22 or multiple 10/22s.
Another forum to look at is rimfire but you already have I bet.
Yes they wont have info on Dlask but there are many receivers other than dlask to choose from!
Firstly, great comparison. If I can contribute at all, I have no long term experience with other models, but on my synthetic 10/22, there is no anodizing or paint that I am aware of. The aluminum is simply machined and allowed to oxide, which ends up being a great protective layer anyways. Same with the stainless parts, simply machined, no anodizing or paint.
And I'm a tinkerer. I've rebuilt transmissions/engines, etc. Taking a 10/22 down to individual parts is no big deal to me. So I bought it with the full intention of stripping it, and sanding/polishing internal parts, reprofiling the sear, etc. I personally see the 10/22 as having "corners cut" to make it much more affordable obviously, but mostly in ways that are not critical, and if you are willing to put in the effort, it costs little to get big improvements.
I often fire ~500 or even more rounds a session at the range over a few hours. And at times when fire rate increases barrel heat becomes an issue, even with small time intervals of 2-3 seconds per shot, I have often gotten ~1" deviation when the barrel gets hot at 75 yards.
I was ready to purchase a hex head for my 10/22. But my synthetic to my surprise came with one.
I spent a few bucks on some Tuff Buffers. I have been very happy with the reduction in noise and it seems to cycle at least a few bulk rimfire ammos reliably. Seems hit or miss though like any other .22LR semi-auto platform, i.e. the Marlin 795.
