Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Why not? said:
I had an 8X57 rifle with a bore like that. Could not get it clean. Read somewhere that long, continued, use of ball powder could do that. Got really aggressive, and took after it with coarse steel wool wrapped around an old bore brush. Soaked it with solvent, and went at it twenty strokes at a time, then change the steel wool for new, as it was coming out quite dark.

It was quite an amazing transformation. The bore was bright in less than 100 strokes, and the rifle went from a mediocre shooter to a very satisfactory hunting accuracy. The more it was shot after that, the brighter the bore became.

You might want to try the cave-man treatment.... :)
Ted
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"When you ain't got nut'n .. you got nut'n to lose"
Have saved a few over the years, a couple of 'em were rusted almost shut, with those cave-man excavation methods.

Alternating .. brake cleaner, Evaporust, JB bore paste, Kroil, CR10, steel wool. ... repeat till the grooves re-appear.
Like peeling off layers of onion skin.

One rancid-bored old .303, it got to outright gleaming after a few hundred fax paper patched cast bullets went through. Seems that fax paper has some abrasive polishing clay in it. :cool:
 
The 1600 is the same ACTION as the 1640, only the barrel lenght differentiate these "models". Your complete model designation is 458-03 and it's only a North Amrican variation of the European model 1600H and it was made in 1962.

Leupold don't nmanufacture a QR base for the HVA 1640/1600. They have the standard one piece base #49989, though.
 
Baribal said:
The 1600 is the same ACTION as the 1640, only the barrel lenght differentiate these "models". Your complete model designation is 458-03 and it's only a North Amrican variation of the European model 1600H and it was made in 1962.

Leupold don't nmanufacture a QR base for the HVA 1640/1600. They have the standard one piece base #49989, though.
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Thank you for the good information. Do you know if weaver makes quick detachable rings that would fit. I would like to keep the peep sight on.
Stefan
 
Yes, you can go with the Grand Slam rings and bases. EAW makes a nice one, in the serie Quick Loc but it's far from being cheap. Check for either Samll Ring Mauser (or 94/96) and / or Carl Gustav 1900.

Weaver bases are #55 rear, #46 front for regular bases (aluminium) and #S55 rear, #S46 front, #S402 for the front extension base and #48950 for the one piece GS base.
 
Baribal said:
Yes, you can go with the Grand Slam rings and bases. EAW makes a nice one, in the serie Quick Loc but it's far from being cheap. Check for either Samll Ring Mauser (or 94/96) and / or Carl Gustav 1900.

Weaver bases are #55 rear, #46 front for regular bases (aluminium) and #S55 rear, #S46 front, #S402 for the front extension base and #48950 for the one piece GS base.
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I just wanted to say thank you for the information Baribal , I was able to find the weaver bases at sail for under ten bucks and am mounting the scope tonight. My father will be very pleased with his early Father's Day gift
 
Good Day Gentlemen, I have owned this 30-06 4100 for 43 years and it has seen hundreds of bush miles and Northern BC Moose without ever letting me down.
The bolt knob and the wrist cap have ivory inlays as well. Glass bedded with a Kanjar trigger and a trigger shoe. The Zeiss variable scope is held
firmly in place by ConeTrol projectionless bases and rings.
I have two magazines for the times when I am the passenger in hunting country. I cannot imagine a nicer package to hunt with or depend on. Accuracy is unbelievable with very little felt recoil. About 7.25 pounds loaded with the Zeiss variable.

 
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I agree. What I have trouble understanding is why, in excellent condition they only sell for $600-$650.
Makes no sense to me as they are top quality all the way.

Do most folk know that removable magazines can be used in the 4100.
 
Bit of a different take on a 4100, I do like it though. Mine are all pretty close to original, I feel as well that they are a very high quality firearm! I like your choice of conetrol as well. Glad it has served you so well. I didn't know DM's were available?
 
I think it's a 1600??

Hi guys,

Wow! What a great thread. I have read up to page 10...92 to go, but thought I would get my pics in here for evaluation. From what I have read so far, I think I have a late model 1600, featherweight, although it could also be a 4100?? S/N is 2095XX, I'm guessing 1959'ish. She's a 30-06 with the 20 1/2" bbl (520mm). Hopefully one of you well versed in these fine rifles will be able to confirm it's identity. The floor plate is steel. I have a few different scope options for it...just need to decide which one. Leupold 4X, B&L Elite 3000 3-9, classic Weatherby "Variable" 2.75-10 or B&L Balvar 2.5-10. I also have an M/38 6.55X55 that will need one of these scopes once I get her restored, drilled tapped etc.

Thanks for everyone's contributions! There are many more hours of reading ahead for me. I'll get some better pics when I get a moment. Sun is pretty low here still.

Thanks

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So I pulled it apart to check how bad the crack is at the back, and found some numbers on the bottom of the receiver, and stock that don't correspond with anything else on the gun. Could someone please explain what these mean, and does it change anything about the originality of this? I also see an index mark on the barrel and receiver, maybe removed/changed at one time? Also, what course of action should I take to repair the 2 cracks? I am thinking a good epoxy bedding, with some small holes drilled into the wood around the cracks to get some additional epoxy into the joints.

Thank you

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Can't speak to the legitimacy of those S/N's kilohertz, they do look legit to me tho ..
Witness indexing marks between reciever and barrel are SOP on the Huskies that i've owned/examined.
As to the stock repairs ..
Were it me, I'd remove that steel sleeve at the tang and toss it. There should be no contact possible between the wood and screw.
Bore in from below stock line into the wrist crack, and drive in a couple small brass rods sealed with marinetex epoxy, with the crack clamped(carefully) shut during cure.
Then, glass bed ~zero stress~ with a rough up and thorough degrease preceeding. A layer of electrical tape applied around the tang radius, recoil lug sides, bottom, and front .. to allow "settling in" under recoil without risk of future stock cracking at the tang.
I like to put a threaded rod inletted across the bedding surface behind the recoil lug as well.
And, one across the web just in front of the trigger can't hurt ...

Invert the stock/action during glass bed cure, and there will be no gas bubble pockets to mar your bedding job.

I repeat ~zero stress~ .. it does little good for accuracy if one just screws down tight to where it used to be.


A very good rifle you've got there.!
The steel bottom metal is most desirable in my books.
 
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Thank you vviking, for the quick reply.

I just did a quick swab down of the inside surfaces of the stock and found the recoil lug area is actually cracked on both sides, on either side of where it's stamped 715. I also found 2 stamps in the wood, on either side of the rear ring area, P on the port side and T on starboard. Also a big 7 on the top area of the recoil block. My Aunt gave me all of my uncle's hunting books and mags when he passed last year and there is about a 2cu' box of gunsmithing and gun Digests in there. I know there are many articles on glass bedding and will follow your advice on the zero stress.

As for the rest of it, I polished all the metal with an oily rag and she really is in nice shape. I can't see where there was ever a front site. Someone did an extremely good job of removing and rebluing. Yes, the floor plate is also in nice condition and works 100%. I'm pretty sure I have refinished the stock at one time, in a Tung oil, but that was over 20 years ago now. I had moved on to other rifles but when I found this thread, I decided to get it out and restore it, remount a scope and use it this fall. I remember it being a good shooter. I'll have to dial in a couple of nice rounds for it as well. Have tons of brass and .30 cal bullets to choose from, and a new area in my shop to do gun work, even have a newer wood stove.

Thanks again. Look forward to hearing from Baribal et al about my estimate of it's age, model etc.
 
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