Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Kilohertz,
The barrel is correct, as it should be 20 1/2" (actually, 520mm to the bolt face, or 20.47"), the stiock is correct for a 4100, so "theorically" not a 1600 by name (but same "familly") but a genuine American model. But it orignally came with a ramped and hoooded front sight. The year of production is late 1956.
Everything seems totally legit (marks, stamps and all) on both the stock and the barreled action. The number under the action is supposed to be either a specific pre-assembly serial and the letters on the stock are approval of inletting. The recoil pad is not original, but may have been installed at the moment of purchase.

While I have a different view than vviking about the rear action screw "tube", I totally agree with glass bedding your stock. My point of view about the tube is if it's flush with the wood (top and bottom) and should be alright as it's used to both snuggly clamp the trigger guard and bedding, as long as the front action lug is well bedded. The tang also must have the relief from the wood at the rear anyhow.

The removable magazines (the original ones, anyways) were available in the days and made in Sweden but are long dicontinued, but still show up in auctions there.
 
I have a different view than vviking about the rear action screw "tube"
My point of view about the tube is if it's flush with the wood (top and bottom) and should be alright as it's used to both snuggly clamp the trigger guard and bedding,
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Another oversight of omission on my part Baribal. I totally agree with you that a rear stock pillar has value.
But, have found that the close tolerences between the factory Husqvarna action screw OD, and the bushings ID can lead to problems when the screw bears and thence forces the recoil shoulder forward off it's bedding surface .. and transfers recoil forces into the stock at the tang.
What I should have suggested to kilohertz is to replace the pillar with thinner wall tubing, to gain some working clearance.
This has worked well in many a rifle for me.
 
Hey vviking and Baribal,

Thank you for the detailed and helpful replies. Most excellent. Appreciate the confirmation of it's identity and ideas for stock repair. After I looked at the action and after reading vvikings recommendations, I too realized that the tube provides a "depth gauge", to keep from crushing the wood over time...but then I had the thought after your last post...why not drill out the wood one size up, rather than eliminate the tube. It would achieve the same result and not require any searching of tubing and cutting and such. I also will find some small brass threaded rod, or brass bolts and cut off the heads, to repair the various cracks in the stock, then glass bed the whole thing and be done with it, hopefully forever. :D The other thought is of course, that the tube keeps everything at the back of the receiver in alignment, and if the bedding is done properly, minimal or no force should be transmitted to the tang area through that sleeve.

She will be nice when finished. Appreciate the help.

Cheers
 
No worries, vviking,
the tube is often omitted for repairs, but I personally prefer to keep them. Something commonly done when the tube need to be worked on is to drill it but only slightly oversize and glue it inside with bedding compound. But still, if the tube is tight in and flush, to me, it's useless to play with it. But that's just my visoin of things.
The threaded rod technique works and was even used by HVA for the later production.
 
Have had success by running a 1/16'th oversize drill through the stock pillar, then placing a thin "O" ring over the screw shank to center it during bedding.
The bottom metal's hole tolerances are too tight to pass the "o" ring though, so you'll have to slip it on from the topside.
 
kilohertz said:
Hi oldphart,

Could you post a few closeups of the bottom of your 4100 with the magazines? I think I have the same rifle and would love to find out how this works, as well as find some mags for it.

Thank you
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Tis truly simple to use. Open your floor plate and remove the carrier and spring. Insert the magazine and close the floor plate.






Please forgive my less than great pictures. It might be challenging to find one, the two I have are the only ones I have ever seen.
I don't really need two of them. I suppose if someone made me a ridiculously high offer ($200.), I could sell one.
Cheers & good luck,
Mike
 
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My Husky 1651, out for a walk in the South Island backcountry.
 
Actually, I never tried it, but they may work, as long as the flooplate is hinged. But you loose some capacity.

There are plenty of after market detachable magszines for the standard M/98.... TEC had some.
 
Can anyone recommend where I might buy a 4100/4000 in 30-06? I already have my eye on a few 1600s at tradeex but if possible I'd like to find the version that was sold here. I do have a want ad in the EE but any other links/advice etc. would be great.
Thanks!
 
Well, the other route is contacting the many dealers... problem is that most can't positively identify a 1600 vs 4000/4100....
 
Ok thanks. What are the husqvarna .22s like? Tradex has a few that might be fun to try and hunt with. Would you mind if I pm'd with any questions about the price of some of the things I come across? Seems like you might be the expert. ;)
 
Which model? There are numerous models of HVA .22 rifles. Depends what you're after...

Also, you must understand that Trade Ex (and many others) use the 1600 designation for all their rifles, but in fact, what HVA called the 1600 is only the "lightweight" models, with sort barrels (20.74") while the other configurations were called 1640 (22 and 24" barrel).
 
So I joined the club with a 1600 in 30-06 I picked up of the EE. Could you recommend some factory ammo that might be more likely to be good for it? I know every rifle is a bit different but it will be a little while before I can start loading my own ammo and I would like to get out and get some practice in with it. I've read they usually prefer stuff on the heavier side, is that correct?
 
Siigghhhh, soon have to get a Husqvarna or even a CG. Have to decide on cal first, dont have much use for 6.5X55 but tempted all the same. Traditionalky it was the caliber of choice for moose in scandinavia, mostly on driven hunts where parties went out and had designated shooters on post. Lots of beauties in this thread, which is the oreferred model? Large ring or small ring?
 
KBCL said:
So I joined the club with a 1600 in 30-06 I picked up of the EE. Could you recommend some factory ammo that might be more likely to be good for it? I know every rifle is a bit different but it will be a little while before I can start loading my own ammo and I would like to get out and get some practice in with it. I've read they usually prefer stuff on the heavier side, is that correct?
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Well, it's almost impossible to tell you for sure. But in the old times, we uased Federal 180 grainers a lot and it shot pretty well.
 
NL-Hunter said:
Siigghhhh, soon have to get a Husqvarna or even a CG. Have to decide on cal first, dont have much use for 6.5X55 but tempted all the same. Traditionalky it was the caliber of choice for moose in scandinavia, mostly on driven hunts where parties went out and had designated shooters on post. Lots of beauties in this thread, which is the oreferred model? Large ring or small ring?
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Well, it have been ONE of the calibers of choice in Scandinavia, but according to Norma and people I respect in Sweden, already in the late '50s, there was more moose killed with the '06 than any other. Prior to that, the 9.3X57 was also one of these (and there is still a big following there today). The rules did not permit to use anything below 156 grains for moose hunting and it was considered marginal (in power), but since there was so many in the field (it was/is use(d) for roe deer and capercaillie) they used it quite a lot. Today, it barely meets the request for energy at 100 meters and the SKAN and / or the 6.5-284 are prefered.

As for what is prefered, it depends a lot on what you want. HVA used 4 different actions (M/94/38, M/98, 1600 and 1900) and designed two of them, the 1600 and the 1900. The later (1600 and 1900) usually have better wood, but again, it really depends what you are looking for. Of all these actions, only the M/98 is a Large Ring.
 
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