Savage 10TR le/military

Mister Donut said:
Bipod....well, there are inexpensive ones like the Champion ones that have a pivot feature for about $60 from Cambodian Tire, all the way up to those $300 units from I don't even know the name....not Atlas, that other brand. Anyway, that all depends on budget and personal preferance.
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$300 should get you an Atlas
$450 will get you the LRA (Long Range Accuracy) which is arguably the best tactical bipod available today - http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1111049-LRA-bipods-in-stock
 
Well, here it is...ready for all its new parts to go on...



As you can see from left to right...TAC PRO DIY Kydex cheekrest kit, 2x Dark Eagle Custom 10rd mags (waiting for more), Dark Eagle Custom extended mag release (already installed), Weaver Tactical rings w/ Vortex Viper HS 6-24x50, VMR-1 reticle, MOA, SFP scope, Harris Series 1A2 9-13" bipod, and eBay special .308 muzzlebrake w/ extra crush washers.

Aside from the mag release, the rifle is completely stock...haven't even shot it yet, but taking it apart to install the mag release was a good chance to tighten everything up and give it a few drops of Loc-Tite. I also removed, cleaned and reinstalled the scope rail (as many people have found, it was almost FLOATING on oil), and I pulled the styrofoam from the buttstock and filled the cavity with the crack sealant (Great Stuff I think) you see in the yellow-top can on the left.

All the parts are now installed, and this is what she looks like...







BTW I apologize for the lighting here...I would have done this outside, but I drilled the stock and filled it with the foam outside yesterday, and already got funny looks from the neighbours. My backyard has no privacy.

I especially like the muzzlebrake. It looks like the Savage .300WM one...I wanted one of those, but it's the same as for the .338, so probably won't do much for a .308 if the hole is too big. This one was $20 on eBay.

I'll take her out soon, break her in and report back...then it's time for the next step.

As you can see, I bought some spraypaint in camo colours. I am planning on a DIY camo job a la Shooter (cue haters). I picked up some scrub brush and dead grass from around here, and some sagebrush from Kamloops, and bought the corresponding colours...I'm going to try out both patterns on cardboard and post the results, see which I like better. If something goes wrong, the thing cost me $600...better to do it on here than on my $1200 Rem 700 5R.

Stay tuned!
 
TimberWolf_3063 said:
Well, here it is...ready for all its new parts to go on...



As you can see from left to right...TAC PRO DIY Kydex cheekrest kit, 2x Dark Eagle Custom 10rd mags (waiting for more), Dark Eagle Custom extended mag release (already installed), Weaver Tactical rings w/ Vortex Viper HS 6-24x50, VMR-1 reticle, MOA, SFP scope, Harris Series 1A2 9-13" bipod, and eBay special .308 muzzlebrake w/ extra crush washers.

Aside from the mag release, the rifle is completely stock...haven't even shot it yet, but taking it apart to install the mag release was a good chance to tighten everything up and give it a few drops of Loc-Tite. I also removed, cleaned and reinstalled the scope rail (as many people have found, it was almost FLOATING on oil), and I pulled the styrofoam from the buttstock and filled the cavity with the crack sealant (Great Stuff I think) you see in the yellow-top can on the left.

All the parts are now installed, and this is what she looks like...







BTW I apologize for the lighting here...I would have done this outside, but I drilled the stock and filled it with the foam outside yesterday, and already got funny looks from the neighbours. My backyard has no privacy.

I especially like the muzzlebrake. It looks like the Savage .300WM one...I wanted one of those, but it's the same as for the .338, so probably won't do much for a .308 if the hole is too big. This one was $20 on eBay.

I'll take her out soon, break her in and report back...then it's time for the next step.

As you can see, I bought some spraypaint in camo colours. I am planning on a DIY camo job a la Shooter (cue haters). I picked up some scrub brush and dead grass from around here, and some sagebrush from Kamloops, and bought the corresponding colours...I'm going to try out both patterns on cardboard and post the results, see which I like better. If something goes wrong, the thing cost me $600...better to do it on here than on my $1200 Rem 700 5R.

Stay tuned!
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How did you drill the stock to fill it with foam? Just behind the butt pad? Did it make the stock feel more solid?
 
tactical_tech said:
How did you drill the stock to fill it with foam? Just behind the butt pad? Did it make the stock feel more solid?
Click to expand...

After I installed the cheekrest, I just took the buttpad off. Put the gun on my patio table & chairs with the bipod open, bracing it so it pointed down...and filled the back of the butt with foam. Buttpad back on, set it down, waited for it to cure. I did get a little expansion out of the holes I drilled for the cheekrest...once the foam was dry, it just peeled off.

Yes, the stock feels better now. The balance is better with a bit more weight in the back, and it feels less...vibraty? Resonaty? Less like a hollow drum anyways :p
 
TimberWolf_3063 said:
After I installed the cheekrest, I just took the buttpad off. Put the gun on my patio table & chairs with the bipod open, bracing it so it pointed down...and filled the back of the butt with foam. Buttpad back on, set it down, waited for it to cure. I did get a little expansion out of the holes I drilled for the cheekrest...once the foam was dry, it just peeled off.

Yes, the stock feels better now. The balance is better with a bit more weight in the back, and it feels less...vibraty? Resonaty? Less like a hollow drum anyways :p
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks. Ive been thinking about doing that with mine, now I will. I know what u mean when you say vibraty. I've noticed when I shoot mine the stock just seems to vibrate/resonate at the back. I imagine the foam will help to resolve that.
 
Just dropped mine in an XLR Element Chassis. Just waiting for my Surefire Muzzle Brake from IRUNGUNS then its good to go and I can start load workup. Taking it out next week to test out the chassis.

photo.jpg
 
Just an observation, why do you guys mount your scopes so high? I have always read that it is better to have your scope as close to the axis of the bore as possible therefore use the lowest rings that just allow the objective lens of the scope to clear the barrel. Just wondering?
 
Silverback said:
Just an observation, why do you guys mount your scopes so high? I have always read that it is better to have your scope as close to the axis of the bore as possible therefore use the lowest rings that just allow the objective lens of the scope to clear the barrel. Just wondering?
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The lower the better. I just happened to purchase medium rings to be on the safe side but lows would have worked fine to.
 
Silverback said:
Just an observation, why do you guys mount your scopes so high? I have always read that it is better to have your scope as close to the axis of the bore as possible therefore use the lowest rings that just allow the objective lens of the scope to clear the barrel. Just wondering?
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How's this for low?

http://2.bp.########.com/-2saQDux2Dmk/U92qCI1MBMI/AAAAAAAAUkg/6_0nWHkdC8Q/s1600/P8023602.JPG

http://1.bp.########.com/-BsG3XLKfh3U/U92qBj4NnaI/AAAAAAAAUkY/jcSYpw456YA/s1600/P8023604.JPG

http://3.bp.########.com/-tRXnL4Wyff4/U92qD9lvisI/AAAAAAAAUko/kywkgLb5cR8/s1600/P8023605.JPG

http://4.bp.########.com/-lr5sg1wa-l4/U92qMKmkpjI/AAAAAAAAUlI/BsIHeff4DV0/s1600/P8023610.JPG

Got a little light back there to illuminate the gap:

http://4.bp.########.com/-rDVwziaW0x0/U92qNmUQIaI/AAAAAAAAUlQ/wf2KRsarY9Q/s1600/P8023614.JPG

Took a gamble on the mount because it just barely cleared. Threw the scope on my Cadex 700 and there's even less clearance, flip caps are a no-go.
 
Silverback said:
Just an observation, why do you guys mount your scopes so high? I have always read that it is better to have your scope as close to the axis of the bore as possible therefore use the lowest rings that just allow the objective lens of the scope to clear the barrel. Just wondering?
Click to expand...

I was concerned about this as well when I bought the XLR chassis. Not from any experience, just because of what I have read. This is what the owner of XLR posted on Sniper's Hide in regards to the same question.

This conundrum that people have about the taller scope rings seems to come up over and over again. Shooters are becoming fixated on an idea that seems to make sense but in reality is not really an issue. Obviously you want the scope centerline as close to the bore line as possible to eliminate any error. However, the effect of the DIFFERENCE in height between a traditional setup and that of one that uses a hand guard is extremely small. We are talking about tenths of an inch per degree at distances nearing a mile. The smallest change in wind will have exponentially more effect than the difference in cant. Perhaps people have been watching the Magpul videos and think that if they are a few degrees off that they will miss the target by 6 feet or so at 500 yards. Simply not the case. If you really have that much cant issue your life as a shooter will not be an easy one. Look at virtually all of today's top SWS's and you will see that they all share the tubular hand guard design of the XLR chassis. Look at dedicated ULR systems like the Cheytac and you will see the hand guard used. The Remington MSR and M2010 systems mount the optic significantly higher than our chassis and yet our military snipers do not seem to have cant issues with their systems that people assume they should. This idea has simply stemmed from antiquated advice that has been misconstrued over time. People that worry about this issue should take some time to calculate the effect so they can see how minor the difference really is.

I realize that there are some that want to eliminate all possible error and that is fine. However, I feel that the tubular hand guard offers more benefits than the cost of the added ring height. The tubular design of the hand guard is light weight and strong. This allows most of the weight of the chassis to be at the back which better offsets barrel weight. You will also notice that the tubular hand guard allows the mounting location for the bipod to be significantly closer to the bore centerline. Both of these factors greatly add to the stability of the rifle and aid the shooter in better controlling the rifle. And of course there are the obvious benefits of modularity that the hand guard affords.
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I have had an incredibly difficult spring/summer...basement flooding etc....and while I received my XLR chassis in April, I just shot the Savage with the chassis this past weekend. I also haven't broken out my reloading gear from storage (packed away during basement rebuild), so I bought some Hornady Match 168gr Amax to feed the beast. Now, this rifle shot very well with my reloads, just a tad under MOA at 100y in the Accustock, but it blew me away on Saturday. I don't have any photos, so you will have to take my "Internet Word" for it, but after sighting in the PST, I put 4 rounds into a sub .5" group. I have never shot so well. My buddy used 3 rounds and achieved almost the same grouping. I saved most of the costly Hornady ammo for another visit! :D

I am very impressed with this chassis system...and the rifle of course!
 
Mister Donut said:
http://4.bp.########.com/-rDVwziaW0x0/U92qNmUQIaI/AAAAAAAAUlQ/wf2KRsarY9Q/s1600/P8023614.JPG

Took a gamble on the mount because it just barely cleared. Threw the scope on my Cadex 700 and there's even less clearance, flip caps are a no-go.
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time to sand down the bottoms of the flip covers and make them fit. :)
 
old news.............I got one last week when they went public, then I realised that it was bottom bolt release and won't fit into the pack.....not sure what to do with it now though lol
 
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Here is my Savage 10P. Practically identical to the 10TR except: No threaded barrel (didn't want or need a muzzle brake for a .308), it's a 20" barrel which I prefer since this will not only be a bench gun (and from what I read the accuracy difference gained by the extra 4" barrel is minimal if at all) and no Accustock (I'm planning on upgrading the stock anyways). I'm not a 'precision shooter' but what are the best factory loads you have used in your 10TR's? Bullet weight? And I'm waiting for a DEC 10 round mag but in the meantime does any one know where I can get some factory 4 rounders? Believe me, I've looked. Thanks.
 
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yodave said:
old news.............I got one last week when they went public, then I realised that it was bottom bolt release and won't fit into the pack.....not sure what to do with it now though lol
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Yea, that annoys me. Now that it's gone public, selling it at near-new price is almost not worth it, but I'd like it gone so that I can get one without the bottom release to fit a proper stock or chassis.
 
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