300Spartans
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Canada of course
I put Frog Lube on all my door hinge pins and now the hallways in my house smell like Lifesavers.
It's so refreshing!
It's so refreshing!
Frog Lube Question
- Thread starter stefofthenorth
- Start date
Misanthropist
I think you should give Fireclean a good shake and see what you think of it. It seems to work well on the TRS and will be able to say more after a few more couple thousand rounds.
I can't see the Cost/Performance benefits of regular oil / G96 cleaning be beat.
On upside to Fireclean is that it's partially made from distilled liberal tears. Take it for what it's worth.
I think you should give Fireclean a good shake and see what you think of it. It seems to work well on the TRS and will be able to say more after a few more couple thousand rounds.
I can't see the Cost/Performance benefits of regular oil / G96 cleaning be beat.
On upside to Fireclean is that it's partially made from distilled liberal tears. Take it for what it's worth.
Modern Remington? If so its the gun, not the G96...I had a brand new 870 Tactical pump when I got my PAL at 18, almost 6 years ago now...shot the thing in a light rain for an hour and I got home 3 hours later and the gun was orange...
Also you have your uses/seasons mixed up...use GREASE in the winters, most oils can/do freeze up.
Read the application process on G96 for storage protection..... Spray on, leave for 5 mins, wipe off, then spray on again and leave it wet. Thats what I did and it still rusted inside a safe. If an oil needs to be applied twice to protect its crap lol.
And no.....I don't have the grease/oil mixed up.....grease in the winter is a terrible idea you need to unlearn.
Winter the guns get oiled and wiped down, no excess lube, not wet, basically oiled and dried. You would be better to run a gun with no lube at all in the winter then to use grease.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=539146
http://www.chuckhawks.com/firearms_cold_weather.htm
Clobbersauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Waaay out west.
Your experience with G96 is far different from mine. I live in one of the wettest climates in Canada, and have used G96 as my only lube/cleaner for years. I've shot thousands of rounds of corrosive ammo through a variety of SKS's and VZ's the only thing I ever used to clean them was G96. I've had no issues with rust or corrosion ever.
I'm not sure which G96 product you used, but I use their spray "Triple Action Gun Treatment":
From the web site..they lay it on a little thick...
:I'm kind of interested to give it a shake, just because why not. My guess - I can't remember if I said this already here - is that it's got a bit more solvency to it than the simple oils I generally favour, which would explain why carbon isn't adhering to surfaces: it's staying dissolved in the lube.
The thing that holds me back is the fact that they reference "pores" on their website. Metal isn't skin. I mean I guess you could make the argument that boundary lubrication is dependent on a surface that's microscopically rough; that's not even accurate exactly but I don't really have the time to think about the specific wording that would explain it better. Boundary lubrication is when metal is so close together that only a thin film is left and it's basically being retained in the microscopic valleys of the metal. But it's not like you could sweat out a bunch of lube that's been retained below the surface. Anyway I get that the gun lube industry is basically the fitness supplement industry and everybody is totally dependent on hyperbole and fiction to get their product any attention.
But man, that kind of thing drives me up the wall.
Your experience with G96 is far different from mine. I live in one of the wettest climates in Canada, and have used G96 as my only lube/cleaner for years. I've shot thousands of rounds of corrosive ammo through a variety of SKS's and VZ's the only thing I ever used to clean them was G96. I've had no issues with rust or corrosion ever.
I'm not sure which G96 product you used, but I use their spray "Triple Action Gun Treatment":
From the web site..they lay it on a little thick...
Yeah that's the stuff....lol. I see they are up to "3 applications" now for storage....maybe that was the problem I had only applying it twice!
After that I got a gallon of Breakfree CLP for free from a nice fellow, never had an issue with rust using it, and I still have about 1L left. Only apply it once too....I guess that makes it "3 times better" then G96? lol
G96 does smell nice though....it's got that going for it at least!
Clobbersauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Waaay out west.
I've used Breakfree, I don't find it cleans as well as G96. Sucks that it doesn't work for you.
Yeah BF CLP is not a real good cleaner at all....lousy actually. I'll run a patch down the bore AFTER I'm done cleaning it.....good lube and rust protection, should be called LP....LOL
For cleaning I've tried sooo many different cleaners, they seem to do one thing well but not the other, either hell on carbon or hell on copper. Hoppes #9 is good for carbon, OK for copper if you leave it overnight and reapply several times....so pretty slow. Because of the ammonia in it, doesn't work well with brass brushes.
Started using Otis products, the AR cleaner is very similar to the foaming copper cutters without the wait, no ammonia, and works fast. The O85 works good on carbon when using a brass brush, got some old mil rifles bores looking quite good in no time....nice thing too is the Otis cleaners are not expensive.
Break Free CLP is completely different today from what it once was. It isn't compliant to the latest military standard thus isn't used by the millitary anymore, it also has no NSN. It lacks some of the old key ingredients that made it so good. Breakfree CLP is simply a brand now, every since it changed ownership the product went to garbage.
- Location
- Fort St John B.C.
i use hoppes #9 for cleaning, barnes copper remover for copper build up, and breakfree clp for lube and protection..... why people depend on one product boggles my mind. i also use that foaming stuff on my long guns and tape the bore end and let them sit over night... does a great job.
That is an interesting suggestion as (whether or not it's just more marketing BS or actual science) air tool oil is sold on the principle that it'll remove moisture from the environment its in (i.e. the tools and air lines), along with high lubrication.
Question is, which one to pick?
Lucus, MMO, Ingersoll.
- Location
- Fort St John B.C.
snap-on of course (they sell red line brand)... go big or go home, the air tool oil of nascar....
snap-on of course (they sell red line brand)... go big or go home, the air tool oil of nascar....
I'm not sure that's a complement though
Great idea! I was wondering what I was going to do with that container full of crap.
Tried it once, never again. Gummy, waxy ####.
I use acetone and brakekleen to clean, and synthetic oil/ATF to lube. Typically Mobil or Rotella - depending on my mood, and which is closest.
If it isn't 50% carcinogens by volume, it ain't gonna work.
Ever feel the spindle in a die grinder at 20,000 rpm? It's not about to give you frostbite...
http://www.lubriplate.com/Products/...-Chain-Recirculating-F/Machine-Tool-Oils.aspx
I'd start here. Incidentally Lubriplate has a line of lubes for food processing equipment that is at least as non-toxic as Froglube. And it's actually been designed by chemical engineers to have good lubrication properties.
