Tradex has a large selection of Schultz and Larson .22s again...
- Thread starter Hitzy
- Start date
Yes it is to bad they cut it down.
I have a plan to make new butt hardware that will eat up more space. The adjustable butt hardware that's on there is pretty hill billy.
I tried acetone, laquer thinner, and paint stripper and nothing would do much but dullen the original finish a little. It appears to be some sort of varnish or maybe shellac. I was kind of hoping it was an oil finish but after seeing it in person I realized it wasn't and ended up having to sand it off. There were no stamps or marks on the stock (other than dings and bumps) so I wasn't too worried about removing factory markings or anything. Then again these aren't military surplus rifles anyway. Mine had a couple small cross-hair stickers on it but no badges or competition stickers; if there had been I may have left it as it was.
Danish oil, depending on the manufacturer, is either a form of tung oil, linseed oil, or a combination of the two. The final finish will vary as a result. Mine is done with pure tung oil.
It's I think only 7 coats of tung oil, rubbed in with a rag, polished with 0000 steel wool between coats. Ideally I'd put 12-15 coats but it looked fine at this point and I was in a hurry to let it cure for a few days so I could shoot it. I might go back, buff it more with steel wool, and apply more coats; we'll see. The tung oil really enhanced the striping in the wood. It was subtle with the factory finish but was brought out much more with the oil finish. Still not as figured as some of the stocks I've seen but enough to turn the occasional head at the range.
Here's the entire rifle (with camera flash).
Here's a close up without a flash to show how glossy the tung oil came out:
The blue glare is from my kitchen window so is blue sky, the white glare is from the ceiling light (single bulb).
If it was a hunting rifle I might use some rubbing compounds to bring down the gloss level but for a range-rifle I'm quite happy with the shine. Also makes it grip against bare skin better while holding it since there's no checkering.
The butt pad wouldn't come off on mine, it appears to be glued on as well as screwed. I got some tung oil on the rubber and it wouldn't dry; stayed really sticky. I cleaned it off with a touch of acetone and masked the rubber for the rest of the coats to prevent it from happening.
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ok, you talked me into it..for $295 rifle looks good..got it yesterday from Tradex. I'm not familiar with Evaporust - where could I get some? A wee bit of rust on bolt, sight and muzzle everything else good. Will refinish stock eventually with tung oil. A buddy uses Tru OIL but not sure where to get that either. A few hundred rounds and away |I go.
I tried acetone, laquer thinner, and paint stripper and nothing would do much but dullen the original finish a little. It appears to be some sort of varnish or maybe shellac. I was kind of hoping it was an oil finish but after seeing it in person I realized it wasn't and ended up having to sand it off. There were no stamps or marks on the stock (other than dings and bumps) so I wasn't too worried about removing factory markings or anything. Then again these aren't military surplus rifles anyway. Mine had a couple small cross-hair stickers on it but no badges or competition stickers; if there had been I may have left it as it was.
Danish oil, depending on the manufacturer, is either a form of tung oil, linseed oil, or a combination of the two. The final finish will vary as a result. Mine is done with pure tung oil.
It's I think only 7 coats of tung oil, rubbed in with a rag, polished with 0000 steel wool between coats. Ideally I'd put 12-15 coats but it looked fine at this point and I was in a hurry to let it cure for a few days so I could shoot it. I might go back, buff it more with steel wool, and apply more coats; we'll see. The tung oil really enhanced the striping in the wood. It was subtle with the factory finish but was brought out much more with the oil finish. Still not as figured as some of the stocks I've seen but enough to turn the occasional head at the range.
Here's the entire rifle (with camera flash).
Thanks for the reply, very nice rifle !
This is the original finish. I used Old English lemon oil as suggested by another member to clean it up. The wood seems very dry to me and I have been using this to condition the wood.
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This is how it shot "out of the box" using my last brick of Winchester T22 target that I purchased in 1989 from the Co-op. As soon as the wind dies down I will try again.
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This is how it shot "out of the box" using my last brick of Winchester T22 target that I purchased in 1989 from the Co-op. As soon as the wind dies down I will try again.
Tru-Oil is made by Birchwood Casey; they make a lot of chemicals for firearms. It can be bought at many gun stores. I believe it's a mix of linseed oil and something else. I've used it in the past but find it takes 2 days to dry between coats where as tung oil takes 1. Also takes a lot longer to finally cure and stop smelling. The finish is a little more durable than other oils but looks similar.
This is the original finish. I used Old English lemon oil as suggested by another member to clean it up. The wood seems very dry to me and I have been using this to condition the wood.
I like that look with the original finish. I tend to touch up the dings and scratches, clean with turpentine, then apply some of this Lee Valley "original wood finish" ...no sanding or stripping here.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=45105&cat=1,190,42942
Sorry Mega,, no idea. Maybe you should call them b4 purchasing.
And based on earlier comments by Hitzy, it sounds like a fresh shipment of these will be coming in this summer, so maybe wait if you prefer a better one.
On a slightly diff topic,,, I bought a new oil to coat my baby in. So far Ive used boiled linseed oil,, and I would rate it as just ok.
It seems to leave a yellow-ish colour which I dont like, and it doesnt accentuate the light tiger stripes. The new oil, Danish Oil, seems to give much better results! More visible grain and a wee bit more shine.
And based on earlier comments by Hitzy, it sounds like a fresh shipment of these will be coming in this summer, so maybe wait if you prefer a better one.
On a slightly diff topic,,, I bought a new oil to coat my baby in. So far Ive used boiled linseed oil,, and I would rate it as just ok.
It seems to leave a yellow-ish colour which I dont like, and it doesnt accentuate the light tiger stripes. The new oil, Danish Oil, seems to give much better results! More visible grain and a wee bit more shine.
Yes, definitely try flipping the bolt. It looks like the same dimensions on either side of the handle, but its not and has prob 1mm different width. Mine came put in backwards if i recall correctly, and operating it was very stiff and hard to close up. I played around with the 2 shims, putting them in different positions to no effect. Only after flipping the bolt handle piece, and putting the 'rear' to the 'front', did it operate perfectly.
Received mine yesterday. I'm happy and a little dissapointed at the same time.
First impressions :
- Its a solid rifle !
- God, they know how to make a good trigger !
The bolt is better than I expected. It is only stains instead of rust and i'm sure its gonna be easy to clean.
The action and barrel blue looks OK in shadow but there is light rust all over the barrel/action. With good light its reddish-brownish.
I will have to reblue the whole thing, more work than expected.
Its hard to see on the pics because there is not alot of light.
I was not able to remove the front sling swivel. The nut turn in the wood... Anyone have an idea to jam the nut ? Glue ?
I also still have to figure how to remove the extractor. I'm sure its a little tricky !
I also plan to dissasemble the trigger assembly.
There is a little side-to-side play in the sear, I would like to add shims to remove the play and give it a good cleaning/lube by the same time.
Oh and the buttplate is glued, any idea to remove it without damage anything ?
I removed the sticker and I suppose it is the original finish underneath, which is nice, it sucks they applied some ####ty varnish over it.
First impressions :
- Its a solid rifle !
- God, they know how to make a good trigger !
The bolt is better than I expected. It is only stains instead of rust and i'm sure its gonna be easy to clean.
The action and barrel blue looks OK in shadow but there is light rust all over the barrel/action. With good light its reddish-brownish.
I will have to reblue the whole thing, more work than expected.
Its hard to see on the pics because there is not alot of light.
I was not able to remove the front sling swivel. The nut turn in the wood... Anyone have an idea to jam the nut ? Glue ?
I also still have to figure how to remove the extractor. I'm sure its a little tricky !
I also plan to dissasemble the trigger assembly.
There is a little side-to-side play in the sear, I would like to add shims to remove the play and give it a good cleaning/lube by the same time.
Oh and the buttplate is glued, any idea to remove it without damage anything ?
I removed the sticker and I suppose it is the original finish underneath, which is nice, it sucks they applied some ####ty varnish over it.
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I talked to Anthony today and he explained what the bolt was doing on the one I was interested in. He said the bolt will cycle and fire but the trigger has to be pulled for the bolt to release.
He was very helpful and pulled the rifle off the shelf to describe it to me. This rifle has nice wood and appears to be a M70 with an updated trigger assembly.
The first one I purchased has a crack in the stock but does not appear to effect accuracy.
If this one requires more than cleaning and adjusting, I will have a replacement stock and some spare parts. Will see when it gets here
