Thanks Stencollector.....Yep, I definately think its fuel starvation and will check the float level...Perhaps I did not set it properly when I changed the diaphrams etc...Appreciate the advice....
M38 Jeep Restoration
- Thread starter Hawkshadow
- Start date
Thanks Stencollector.....Yep, I definately think its fuel starvation and will check the float level...Perhaps I did not set it properly when I changed the diaphrams etc...Appreciate the advice....
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
It could just as easily be the ignition....it is easy to get frustrated and go down the wrong path. Make sure your #2 and #3 wires aren't crossed. The Willys went counterclockwise on the rotation. I have seen people do that before. Pull a wire with the truck running and make sure there is a nice hot spark that will easily jump a half inch. Another common ignition problem on the Jeeps (and many other vintage vehicles) is the timing advance weights will seize, or the springs will break. With a timing light, make sure you get about 16 degrees or so of total advance when you rev the engine up. When it goes back to idle make sure it returns to the original setting.
I have also seen owners install spark plugs without gapping them. You won't go wrong at .030. But if you have one or more at .035 it really does make a difference.
But since you indicated that turning in the mixture screw makes no difference, it may well be your carb. Turning the screw all the way in is a good way to check for the torn diaphragm. If the engine still runs with the screw all the way in, then there is fuel coming from somewhere else.
I have also seen owners install spark plugs without gapping them. You won't go wrong at .030. But if you have one or more at .035 it really does make a difference.
But since you indicated that turning in the mixture screw makes no difference, it may well be your carb. Turning the screw all the way in is a good way to check for the torn diaphragm. If the engine still runs with the screw all the way in, then there is fuel coming from somewhere else.
Thanks....All useful info...I'm making a list of things to check over and will get each one crossed off the list in some kind of order until we find the culprit
..Cheers...
Time for an update. It's been over 3 years since I started on this project and the road is in sight!
Over the winter it was been time for various small tasks such as cleaning up the gauge cluster.
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Without going through everything, there was install of gas tank and fuel lines, vent lines, air cleaner, horn rod, making and installing battery cables and the list goes on!
Here are some recent pictures:
Over the winter it was been time for various small tasks such as cleaning up the gauge cluster.
Without going through everything, there was install of gas tank and fuel lines, vent lines, air cleaner, horn rod, making and installing battery cables and the list goes on!
Here are some recent pictures:
Looking great..Very nice job...Nice to get an update on where your at....Good to see your going all original with 24v..
Finally got my M38 running sweet this year, but had to ditch the original carter carb for an earlier one...Just couldn't get the original working right no matter what I did..
Have you got your canvas organised.?..I went to Beechwood in the end. Not cheap, but nice product and fitted like a glove..Love the smell of it..
Anyway, good luck with the remainder and hopefully you'll have some fun this summer if all completed...
Cheers
Finally got my M38 running sweet this year, but had to ditch the original carter carb for an earlier one...Just couldn't get the original working right no matter what I did..
Have you got your canvas organised.?..I went to Beechwood in the end. Not cheap, but nice product and fitted like a glove..Love the smell of it..
Anyway, good luck with the remainder and hopefully you'll have some fun this summer if all completed...
Cheers
Thanks! We're getting close now. I read back to the posts when I first got it… I've learned a lot and had no idea what I was in for at the time! Luckily it came with all of the 24v system intact
Did you have your carter rebuilt? Were you able to go with an MB carb or did you have to go with a solex?
When I started the project I bought a set of new covers and I think I have a top as well. I just had the foam cut at a local shop and am going to be getting to cleaning the frames and putting it together soon. For now they're in my basement and make the place smell great.
Did you have your carter rebuilt? Were you able to go with an MB carb or did you have to go with a solex?
When I started the project I bought a set of new covers and I think I have a top as well. I just had the foam cut at a local shop and am going to be getting to cleaning the frames and putting it together soon. For now they're in my basement and make the place smell great.
I set out to install the starter pedal and found out that (as has been mentioned before) the repro MD Juan kits require some alterations. The opening for the brake pedal shaft had to be moved, starter column had to be moved, opening for accelerator pedal had to be moved, starter pedal had to be moved and starter bolt holes re-done completely.
Oh well, it was all worth it when I got everything in to place and..... (Click for video)
Great success! It makes noise for the first time! Turning a little slow, but I figure that's because it's all fresh inside. First I started by supplying power right to point B and the motor turned. I then hooked it up and tried with the pedal in place.
Oh well, it was all worth it when I got everything in to place and..... (Click for video)
Great success! It makes noise for the first time! Turning a little slow, but I figure that's because it's all fresh inside. First I started by supplying power right to point B and the motor turned. I then hooked it up and tried with the pedal in place.
It has been a busy month! How time flies....
Well, after some timing work it fired up and ran. Not quite on its own as throttle had to be held in. Also had water coming past the bellows in the water pump. After a water pump rebuild and quite a bit of timing work:
http://vid5.photobucket.com/albums/y190/SpiritInside/M38 Restoration/IMG_1035_zpsvrmrd738.mp4
It fires up with much less work, and runs and idles on its own. However, it is quite evident that the bearings in the generator were on their last legs. So, generator removed and in for rebuild.
In the mean time it's on to other projects. Brake reservoirs installed and brakes bled.
On to the harness!
Attaching the turn signal harness to the main harness took some time referencing the military master numbering chart (http://willysmjeeps.com/downloads/Electrical Wiring Number System.pdf). This chart was also quite helpful when it came to numbers which didn't necessarily always match each other such as main harness to rear tail lights.
Stay tuned! Progress is coming fast and furious - much faster than I can stop myself to take pictures!
Well, after some timing work it fired up and ran. Not quite on its own as throttle had to be held in. Also had water coming past the bellows in the water pump. After a water pump rebuild and quite a bit of timing work:
http://vid5.photobucket.com/albums/y190/SpiritInside/M38 Restoration/IMG_1035_zpsvrmrd738.mp4
It fires up with much less work, and runs and idles on its own. However, it is quite evident that the bearings in the generator were on their last legs. So, generator removed and in for rebuild.
In the mean time it's on to other projects. Brake reservoirs installed and brakes bled.
On to the harness!
Attaching the turn signal harness to the main harness took some time referencing the military master numbering chart (http://willysmjeeps.com/downloads/Electrical Wiring Number System.pdf). This chart was also quite helpful when it came to numbers which didn't necessarily always match each other such as main harness to rear tail lights.
Stay tuned! Progress is coming fast and furious - much faster than I can stop myself to take pictures!
sequoia4100
CGN Regular
- Location
- Western Canada
Thanks for posting your restoration journey. It's making me think about a nice future retirement project. I had a bren gun carrier a few years back that I was planning on rebuilding but it needed so much. I eventually sold it. I hope to get over to see what's left of it at the Westie's Armoury.
#1bcshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- North Of The DMZ (US border)
I can't believe that the summer is almost over! It's been a busy one.
Pad an cover the seats:
OMG !
Get rid of those blue butt connectors .
Solder & heat shrink if you don't have OEM type conectors
OMG !
Get rid of those blue butt connectors .
Solder & heat shrink if you don't have OEM type conectors
Heat shrink over the "blue" connectors. You have done some good upgrades along the way. Wish you had some more warm months to enjoy.
#1bcshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- North Of The DMZ (US border)
If you are going to use butt connectors use Pico or Wurth that are heat shrink connectors .
Best connection is soldered not crimped . With the amount of work he has done on the restoration why cheap out on something that could potentially destroy the entire vehicle .
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
OMG !
Get rid of those blue butt connectors .
Solder & heat shrink if you don't have OEM type conectors
Concur. Don't blow a good restoration over $20 or $30 of SMP connectors. For that matter lose the halogens too. At the speed a M38 goes, you won't need Halogen.
Old joke about the guy who wanted to swim across the Ocean. He made it half way across, got tired, so he swam back. Don't lose it at this stage.
Otherwise looking good. Re the canvas, don't sweat it if it's a little loose when you first install it. It tends to shrink and stretch as required to take the proper shape.
Thanks for the compliments.
When I took the picture with the butt connectors I was doing it up quickly to test. I made a jumper so that I wouldn't cut out the Douglas connector on my brand new harness, and I wanted to ensure that the smaller gauge wire on the bulb connector didn't have any issues. I left lots of wire there to make properly soldered joints with some shrink over top and all tucked in to the boot.
The halogens were a safety upgrade over the sealed lamps as well as a practical. Gives good light projection, you can't visibly tell any difference as they are the same colour as the standard lamp (just a little brighter). Finally, not only are you not blowing hard-to-come-by lamps semi-regularly, but you aren't paying $40+ to replace them.
Tommy, you're entirely right about the canvas. With the front seat having the tabs on the seat pan it added an entirely different dimension to tensioning. The final step in installing canvas seats is letting them sit out in the hot sun to form.
When I took the picture with the butt connectors I was doing it up quickly to test. I made a jumper so that I wouldn't cut out the Douglas connector on my brand new harness, and I wanted to ensure that the smaller gauge wire on the bulb connector didn't have any issues. I left lots of wire there to make properly soldered joints with some shrink over top and all tucked in to the boot.
The halogens were a safety upgrade over the sealed lamps as well as a practical. Gives good light projection, you can't visibly tell any difference as they are the same colour as the standard lamp (just a little brighter). Finally, not only are you not blowing hard-to-come-by lamps semi-regularly, but you aren't paying $40+ to replace them.
Tommy, you're entirely right about the canvas. With the front seat having the tabs on the seat pan it added an entirely different dimension to tensioning. The final step in installing canvas seats is letting them sit out in the hot sun to form.
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Just a little story on my seat / canvas reno..(the pic of your seat / frame reminded me) One of the legs on the front drivers seat was missing (right side, if your sitting on the seat) I found a handle from the top of a commercial honda mower was exactly the same size steel and profile (if cut correctly) to an original leg...With a little work / welding etc. nobody would know the difference....Its the only Honda part on my M38..)
)
