Tradex has a large selection of Schultz and Larson .22s again...

Thanks, I will check Lee Valley. The last piece I paid $25 for about 3 inches.(a guy should be able to get 4ft for 25 bucks, it is just extruded aluminum after all) or maybe it's just my Scottish heritage coming through. LOL
 
crooked barrel jed said:
Thanks, I will check Lee Valley. The last piece I paid $25 for about 3 inches.(a guy should be able to get 4ft for 25 bucks, it is just extruded aluminum after all) or maybe it's just my Scottish heritage coming through. LOL
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$25 for 3"? Man, somebody ripped you off... They are $16.50.- for 4' at Lee Valley.

w ww.leevalley.com/en/Hardware/page.aspx?p=61986&cat=3,43576,61994&ap=1
 
crooked barrel jed said:
mine is .785 at the muzzle & about .985 at the receiver
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Whaaaaaaaat ?

I bet its not a M70 or a M77...

Mine is a M77 and the barrel is as big as the receiver and have no taper.
I will measure it later tonight when i come back home.

EDIT : Finally there is a small taper. And it was smaller then i remembered, i was wrong.

Diameter on my M77 is .975 from the receiver to .850 just berore the front sight.
 
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I just got my new to me Schultz and Larsen in the mail today. I bought one that was advertised as "the bolt would not close" and needed repair. Thanks to the posts in this thread I knew that I could adjust the headspace to make it work. When I stripped the bolt I found a .038" thick spacer between the bolt lock and the bolt body. When I assembled it without the spacer it was too loose. I found a steel washer that was .025" thick and close to the other dimensions of the spacer. By using my dremel to open the hole in the washer from .400" to .435" I made it fit and stoned the burrs off. The washer is smaller on the outer dimension .630" vs .660" and fits fine. I checked the headspace of the bolt by using a feeler gauge between the receiver and the rear of the bolt lock block without the firing pin spring in place. With the .025" spacer I can close the bolt with resistance on a 0.0015" feeler gauge. It closes freely without the gauge. I think that I will not get it any better than that. This whole process took less than two hours. I think that someone must have stripped several of the rifles and mixed up the headspace spacers, I remember someone in this thread that had cases "ballooning" and he must have been missing or had the wrong spacer.

By the way, my bolt stop is not like the others I have seen here. Instead of a hex head screw to keep the bolt from rising to the final removal notch in the reciever I have a spring loaded plunger. This makes it easy when inserting the bolt as I just push ahead to compress the plunger and lower the bolt. Looking forward to shooting this beauty.

270 totheend
 
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270 totheend said:
I just got my new to me Schultz and Larsen in the mail today. I bought one that was advertised as "the bolt would not close" and needed repair. Thanks to the posts in this thread I knew that I could adjust the headspace to make it work. When I stripped the bolt I found a .038" thick spacer between the bolt lock and the bolt body. When I assembled it without the spacer it was too loose. I found a steel washer that was .025" thick and close to the other dimensions of the spacer. By using my dremel to open the hole in the washer from .400" to .435" I made it fit and stoned the burrs off. The washer is smaller on the outer dimension .630" vs .660" and fits fine. I checked the headspace of the bolt by using a feeler gauge between the receiver and the rear of the bolt lock block without the firing pin spring in place. With the .025" spacer I can close the bolt with resistance on a 0.0015" feeler gauge. It closes freely without the gauge. I think that I will not get it any better than that. This whole process took less than two hours. I think that someone must have stripped several of the rifles and mixed up the headspace spacers, I remember someone in this thread that had cases "ballooning" and he must have been missing or had the wrong spacer.

By the way, my bolt stop is not like the others I have seen here. Instead of a hex head screw to keep the bolt from rising to the final removal notch in the reciever I have a spring loaded plunger. This makes it easy when inserting the bolt as I just push ahead to compress the plunger and lower the bolt. Looking forward to shooting this beauty.

270 totheend
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Glad to hear that "taking a chance" worked out for you.

I received one of these firearms a couple months ago, mine is one of the "Match Rifles" with the set trigger. Its a beast of a rimfire, the receiver is of similar diameter as a Rem 700 or small ring Mauser. Hope to get some pictures up soon but been to busy. Also hope to build a new stock for it as the biathlon style isn't really a good fit for use on a bench, and its in decent shape so don't want to modify it. Finally got it drilled and tapped and the 36x Bausch & Lomb mounted; have a brick of SK ammo ready for good weather and spare time to see what its capable of.
 
The plunger style bolt release I see on early M70's...keep it oiled as they are pretty weak and any rust will make it stick in and be useless. The fix was to drill it out and tap the hole for an allen bolt. Mid production M70's went straight to the allen bolt. Later have metal tab d&t to the top receiver that rotates to remove the bolt.
 
Finally, I had time to mill the QD sling swivel cups pockets in the stock.
All the stock work is done now.
Next week I will begin the oil finish.

All the parts, except the trigger group is reblued.

I lost a 2mm bearing ball for the sight during the reassembly of the sight.
I ordered a 100pcs pack so if anyone needs one or two, just drop me a PM.
I also have a 2X spare sling swivels and one wood screw for the buttstock sling swivel if anyone interested ( I know some of the S&L from tradeex have one missing ).























 
Rod B said:
Very nice work Ben. I too am refinishing a Shultz & Larsen mine is a model 77. I hated the dark factory varnish, I am using a walnut stain & Tung Oil. I hope it turns out as nice as yours.
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Thanks Rob !

I will use dark walnut Danish oil and Tung oil on mine.

Rod B said:
I"m looking for one of these rifles if anyone has one to sell. See my WTB ad in the rimfire exchange forum.

Disregard, I located a very clean model 77. :d
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There is some left for sale at Tradeex.
Most of them have little issues like, bolt will not ####, etc...
I'm sure most of them are easy fixes even if there is no spare parts.
 
Oh my that thing looks nice! Great work Ben.

Ive been working on one as well. The 5th coat of Danish oil is drying right now. I can't wait to get it together and post some pics.

Hopefully mine will be as nice as yours when its done. (I may need a lesson in making the blueing look that nice though!!)
 
My entry in the unofficial "nicest S&L contest". :d

Heres some pics of the M77 I have been working on. Its been a slow process and I've put in a ton of hours but its finally starting to be complete.

I missed out on all the good ones and was left with all the rifles that had problems or weren't complete.

This one was in good shape but it its LOP cut down to about 10". It came with a adjustable LOP butt. It was super ugly so I decided to make my own.

I also added a Anschutz rail to the forend for a bipod. The trigger guard was looking a little ugly so I made a new one out of aluminum.

DSC00459_zps15byj0xh.jpg


DSC00460_zpsrmdejfnc.jpg


DSC00452_zpsyqhskceo.jpg


DSC00458_zpsnditti1c.jpg
 
^^^ Hey fella, how ya likin' a stock that has slotted, Phillips, Robertson, and Allen screws all at once? If'n you want more than one drive, slots all around with hex on the adjustment screws would be the norm.

Looks great otherwise. Did you mill the butt or is it a set part?
 
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